164LikesTamiya TB Evo 6
01-16-2015, 01:20 PM
#886
Did you guys find that you had to make your EPA uneven - ex. 81Left/97 Right to make it even travel?
I have the arm perpendicular but with EPA's at 100/100 starting point, full lock left was making the servo howl a bit wheras the right full lock was fine, hence the uneven adjustments to the endpoints.
If I put the servo "horn" one notch the other direction, it just reverses the "uneven" travel before for the howl and gets the servo arm OUT of perpendicular alignment
SO -- just confirming that the EPA's are normally different settings on an ON ROAD car like this? I'm trying to be as exact as possible, but not used to it from off road
Thanks again for all the help from the experts here
I have the arm perpendicular but with EPA's at 100/100 starting point, full lock left was making the servo howl a bit wheras the right full lock was fine, hence the uneven adjustments to the endpoints.
If I put the servo "horn" one notch the other direction, it just reverses the "uneven" travel before for the howl and gets the servo arm OUT of perpendicular alignment
SO -- just confirming that the EPA's are normally different settings on an ON ROAD car like this? I'm trying to be as exact as possible, but not used to it from off road
Thanks again for all the help from the experts here
Don't you have a subtrim setting on your transmitter? This really is key. As you noted yourself the notches allow you to adjust the neutral only 1/25th of a turn at a time. The subtrim is here to get a "clean" neutral point with your regular trim still at zero.
To even your L/R throws you should play with the subtrim and the length of the servo linkage. It goes like this: lengthen the linkage a little bit, readjust you subtrim to get the bellcranks centered again, then readjust your EPAs. If the gap between L and R is greater than before, go back and shorten the link instead. I wouldn't over think it though, anything with + or - 5 clicks between left and right is fine by me.
Overall L and R throw is the only thing you can adjust when it comes to getting a symmetrical steering, but even if you get that right the symmetry will never be perfect. For all I know the servo linkage geometry of my car could result in one side having a bit more "expo" than the other, but since I'm not good enough to notice it when driving, and since there's nothing to do about it anyway, I just don't pay attention to it.
01-16-2015, 01:52 PM
#887
Tech Apprentice
81/ 97 is not shocking but is definitely a gap I would try to improve.
Don't you have a subtrim setting on your transmitter? This really is key. As you noted yourself the notches allow you to adjust the neutral only 1/25th of a turn at a time. The subtrim is here to get a "clean" neutral point with your regular trim still at zero.
To even your L/R throws you should play with the subtrim and the length of the servo linkage. It goes like this: lengthen the linkage a little bit, readjust you subtrim to get the bellcranks centered again, then readjust your EPAs. If the gap between L and R is greater than before, go back and shorten the link instead. I wouldn't over think it though, anything with + or - 5 clicks between left and right is fine by me.
Overall L and R throw is the only thing you can adjust when it comes to getting a symmetrical steering, but even if you get that right the symmetry will never be perfect. For all I know the servo linkage geometry of my car could result in one side having a bit more "expo" than the other, but since I'm not good enough to notice it when driving, and since there's nothing to do about it anyway, I just don't pay attention to it.
Don't you have a subtrim setting on your transmitter? This really is key. As you noted yourself the notches allow you to adjust the neutral only 1/25th of a turn at a time. The subtrim is here to get a "clean" neutral point with your regular trim still at zero.
To even your L/R throws you should play with the subtrim and the length of the servo linkage. It goes like this: lengthen the linkage a little bit, readjust you subtrim to get the bellcranks centered again, then readjust your EPAs. If the gap between L and R is greater than before, go back and shorten the link instead. I wouldn't over think it though, anything with + or - 5 clicks between left and right is fine by me.
Overall L and R throw is the only thing you can adjust when it comes to getting a symmetrical steering, but even if you get that right the symmetry will never be perfect. For all I know the servo linkage geometry of my car could result in one side having a bit more "expo" than the other, but since I'm not good enough to notice it when driving, and since there's nothing to do about it anyway, I just don't pay attention to it.
Motor question:
Whats the difference?:
1 - http://www.horizonhobby.com/vortex-v...-175t-ori28295
2 - http://www.horizonhobby.com/vortex-v...-turn-ori28252
01-16-2015, 11:33 PM
#888
Tech Initiate
Hi guys, I'm thinking about buy this car but I'm unsure about if that's really worth.
Well, I had a yokomo BD7 before (two years ago) and now I'm going to return races and I want participate in pro stock class (10.5/13.5). So is this my car? Can I buy it and put optional parts or simple spare parts of 418/419 to improve the machine? How faster can it be?
Waiting for your help boys...
Well, I had a yokomo BD7 before (two years ago) and now I'm going to return races and I want participate in pro stock class (10.5/13.5). So is this my car? Can I buy it and put optional parts or simple spare parts of 418/419 to improve the machine? How faster can it be?
Waiting for your help boys...
01-28-2015, 09:11 PM
#891
02-02-2015, 11:42 AM
#894
Item #84408
It hasn't been released yet so no price announced but one Dutch site has it at the same price as the blue version (€460).
It hasn't been released yet so no price announced but one Dutch site has it at the same price as the blue version (€460).
02-09-2015, 08:50 PM
#895
Hey guys, is it possible to mount the front shocks "inboard" like on the TB04? I wanted to be able to mount low profile bodies Lambo, Ferrari, Carrera GT, etc. Also, if this is possible, what are the advantages or disadvantages of mounting the shocks this way? Thanks in advance.
02-09-2015, 09:55 PM
#896
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
[QUOTE=theclutch;13839230]Hey guys, is it possible to mount the front shocks "inboard" like on the TB04? I wanted to be able to mount low profile bodies Lambo, Ferrari, Carrera GT, etc. Also, if this is possible, what are the advantages or disadvantages of mounting the shocks this way? Thanks in advance.[/QUOTE
I don't think you can set up ifs on Evo6
I don't think you can set up ifs on Evo6
02-10-2015, 07:33 AM
#897
Hey guys, is it possible to mount the front shocks "inboard" like on the TB04? I wanted to be able to mount low profile bodies Lambo, Ferrari, Carrera GT, etc. Also, if this is possible, what are the advantages or disadvantages of mounting the shocks this way? Thanks in advance.
02-18-2015, 04:17 PM
#899
Bump
02-21-2015, 12:12 PM
#900
Tech Apprentice
Any reason Tower has the original "blue" version at $559 and the pre-order for the "black" version for $514
Also, any guesses on the life cycle of the EVO 6? Aside from the black version, will there be any new versions or do you think they will scrap the idea and stay with the belt driven cars? I have one EVO 6 built, love it & about to grab another (if nothing else, for parts in the event they discontinue)
I love the 419 as well for easier maintenance & found the build much easier, but there is something about the EVO 6 that I really like ........
Also, any guesses on the life cycle of the EVO 6? Aside from the black version, will there be any new versions or do you think they will scrap the idea and stay with the belt driven cars? I have one EVO 6 built, love it & about to grab another (if nothing else, for parts in the event they discontinue)
I love the 419 as well for easier maintenance & found the build much easier, but there is something about the EVO 6 that I really like ........