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Old 12-24-2016, 10:48 AM   #2416
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Hi! Hope you enjoyed Japan.

Yes to the flex top plate, I have been using them since the CenCal race. No to bulkheads- still waiting for samples.
No plans for the EXO5 at this time so I would slot the stock plates.
Japan was awesome! Got to use my Japanese to meet a bunch of great drivers at the AOC. Made lots of new friends. Had a blast in Tokyo the week following.

It would be fun to get a few drivers together to go again next year. Yatabe Arena is a place where everyone needs to race at a least once in their life

Is the flex top deck the same thickness as the standard deck just with the tabs cut out?
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Old 12-28-2016, 10:18 AM   #2417
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Originally Posted by Leester View Post
Japan was awesome! Got to use my Japanese to meet a bunch of great drivers at the AOC. Made lots of new friends. Had a blast in Tokyo the week following.

It would be fun to get a few drivers together to go again next year. Yatabe Arena is a place where everyone needs to race at a least once in their life

Is the flex top deck the same thickness as the standard deck just with the tabs cut out?
Sounds awesome! I would go if they are racing on asphalt

The new top plate is 2mm vs the stock 2.25mm.
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Old 12-29-2016, 09:01 AM   #2418
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Mike have you thought about doing a double cardan joint replacement made of titanium?
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Old 12-29-2016, 09:54 AM   #2419
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I had a few dcj/lcd drives made out of 7075 aluminum for my AE car, and saved 4grams per corner. Titanium would not save as much weight. I would only recommend them for stock racing though...
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Old 12-29-2016, 04:39 PM   #2420
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Anyone interested in a pair of lower aluminum gearboxes (tamiya 84425). Never ran, but were installed on car. Still look new! shoot me a PM if interested.
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Old 12-29-2016, 04:43 PM   #2421
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I had a few dcj/lcd drives made out of 7075 aluminum for my AE car, and saved 4grams per corner. Titanium would not save as much weight. I would only recommend them for stock racing though...
I'm thinking reduced rotating mass and same level of resistance to wear.
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Old 12-29-2016, 09:19 PM   #2422
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Mike have you thought about doing a double cardan joint replacement made of titanium?
I can look into after I wrap up a bunch of other projects in a few months.
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Old 12-30-2016, 09:37 AM   #2423
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I can look into after I wrap up a bunch of other projects in a few months.
Awesome.
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Old 12-30-2016, 01:50 PM   #2424
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Understood, but titanium is so much weaker than steel parts that I prefer aluminum 7075. I've broken alot more titanium screws and parts then aluminum over the years, and aluminum will rather bend than snap like titanium(too costly)....
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I'm thinking reduced rotating mass and same level of resistance to wear.
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Old 12-30-2016, 03:57 PM   #2425
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Originally Posted by bertrandsv87 View Post
Understood, but titanium is so much weaker than steel parts that I prefer aluminum 7075. I've broken alot more titanium screws and parts then aluminum over the years, and aluminum will rather bend than snap like titanium(too costly)....
Titanium is stronger than aluminium, and once aluminium bends, it's junk.
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Old 12-30-2016, 05:11 PM   #2426
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Most of the forces that bent my aluminum parts also snapped the titanium parts I swapped in... I had to go back to steel in these cases: ntc3 lower shock screws, ntc3 arm mount screws, ntc3 pivot balls, etc...
I am sure the bent aluminum parts are junk after bending, but at least you'll be able to finish your main: not the case if you're snapping titanium parts....
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Old 12-30-2016, 07:01 PM   #2427
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That must've been some exceptionally cheap titanium if it snapped and the aluminum parts didn't. There are lots of titanium alloys, and they have a pretty wide range of strengths. Try to stick to 6Al4V titanium when you can, like what Lunsford sells, or at least stick to titanium alloys that have *some* kind of metallurgical name assigned to them. China is the king of cheap no-name titanium right now.
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Old 01-01-2017, 01:58 PM   #2428
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Well car number one is gone to a good home. Car number two is available. Not quite as decked out as the first but still a great car.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post14785727
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Old 01-11-2017, 02:53 PM   #2429
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Finally finished my Tb03 R with Exo 6 Conversion and some Evo 6 bits!
What I have left is the old reversible suspension arms and the toe blocks.
Now IŽd like to know, how the the new style (Evo6 / Ta 07) blocks are geometrywise compared to the old 416 style?
I did not find an overview of the new ones.
If they are named 05F, is it the same as an old F with raise of 0,5 mm?
And there are even G blocks? Should be really wide, or just a new order?

If you you have any links or toe chart, IŽd really be happy!
DonŽt want to spend a lot of money yet, if I can stay with the old blocks maybe...

Will run 21,5t Fun class end of January, and see how the baby feels. Really curious about the conversion. Changed diff oil to 2k in rear, as in the first training I had some loose rear end on throttle out of the corner, racing on carpet.

Kind regards,
Matthias
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Old 01-12-2017, 06:20 AM   #2430
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The blocks are the same in width, so an E block is the same width if its 'E' '.5E' or '1E' the only difference is the height. 'E' is the highest, '1E' is 1mm lower than 'E' and '.5E' is 0.5mm lower than 1E.
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Last edited by Qatmix; 01-16-2017 at 06:04 AM.
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