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Old 06-21-2016, 09:56 PM   #1966
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R1 wurks refunded my money. They said they don't make the 40mm fan and mount any more.
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Old 06-22-2016, 04:29 AM   #1967
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Default Setup question

I've a setup-question with my 6MS:

When the wheelbase on the chassis for example is shortened against the basic setup, do the dampers have to stay perpendicular to the arms? I mean perpendicular if you look sideways on the chassis.

I can use washers under the damperscrews but i don't know if it has generally any effect with light angeled or perpendicular mounted dampers.
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Old 06-22-2016, 10:06 AM   #1968
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Originally Posted by Tom1977 View Post
I've a setup-question with my 6MS:

When the wheelbase on the chassis for example is shortened against the basic setup, do the dampers have to stay perpendicular to the arms? I mean perpendicular if you look sideways on the chassis.

I can use washers under the damperscrews but i don't know if it has generally any effect with light angeled or perpendicular mounted dampers.
Yes definitely add spacing as needed.
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Old 06-22-2016, 10:08 AM   #1969
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Originally Posted by nubs View Post
Related question, how do you get them to fit? My 66t spur rubs up against the top deck. ��
For 17.5 exo-six you would want about a 58t 48p spur.
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Old 06-22-2016, 02:54 PM   #1970
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TQ Racing has a Robinson Racing 60T 48P spur gear that I use that fits nicely. PN# 1860. The 48P gears are much easier to set the mesh with as the spur and pinion aren't the easiest things to see from the rear of the car if your using the Exotek conversion chassis. I use 36 thru 40 pinions to pretty much cover the full range of gearing on a 17.5T motor. Adjust pinion choice for 21.5T accordingly.
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Old 06-22-2016, 05:46 PM   #1971
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What's the lowest turn motors you can run without tearing through the gears?
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Old 06-22-2016, 08:11 PM   #1972
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What's the lowest turn motors you can run without tearing through the gears?
Faster you go, the harder you hit things, that's the main culprit in gear duration reduction with Tamiya shaft cars

Would not recommend more than 17.5, heard of some fast guys running 13.5, but that's the edge imo
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Old 06-23-2016, 09:34 PM   #1973
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Are you guys using anything to protect the CF body from the suspension arm set screws?
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Old 06-24-2016, 06:33 AM   #1974
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Talking set screws?

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Are you guys using anything to protect the CF body from the suspension arm set screws?

You can put a drop of CA glue, so it doesn't wear the carbon fiber as fast.
I was thinking McMaster Carr sells set screws with a Nylon tip, that would not dig into the lower deck. I checked on McMaster-Carr website and it's $10.46 for a set of 4 of the nylon tip steel 4mm set screws 10mm long, not counting shipping! That's a little pricey maybe you can find some cheaper somewhere else?
Just my 2$
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Old 06-24-2016, 12:58 PM   #1975
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R1 wurks refunded my money. They said they don't make the 40mm fan and mount any more.
I have emailed them recently too about a few things and have not received any reply. I see a lot of their items "out of stock" on most online websites as well.

Are they still actively in business?
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Old 06-24-2016, 03:37 PM   #1976
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Mcmastercarr sells full nylon 10-32 droop screws that can make your car two to three grams lighter... Just add a bit of ofna diff lock lube or sticky silicone so they can hold better...
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Originally Posted by maxepower View Post
You can put a drop of CA glue, so it doesn't wear the carbon fiber as fast.
I was thinking McMaster Carr sells set screws with a Nylon tip, that would not dig into the lower deck. I checked on McMaster-Carr website and it's $10.46 for a set of 4 of the nylon tip steel 4mm set screws 10mm long, not counting shipping! That's a little pricey maybe you can find some cheaper somewhere else?
Just my 2$
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Old 06-27-2016, 10:46 AM   #1977
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Raced this weekend. It was my first actual race, and my second time on a track. Some of the locals are suggesting that I move from 17.5 to USGT (21.5). They think it will help to slow me down. I'm not so sure.

Personally I like the speed of 17.5

Anyway, most of the locals were somewhere in the range of about 15-16 seconds per a lap. By the end of the night I was around 18 seconds per a lap, I flipped my car 3 times in a 8 hour period, so I don't think I'm doing that bad. What do you guys think... should I stick with 17.5 like I want or go down to 21.5 like others are suggesting?
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Old 06-27-2016, 10:56 AM   #1978
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nubs View Post
Raced this weekend. It was my first actual race, and my second time on a track. Some of the locals are suggesting that I move from 17.5 to USGT (21.5). They think it will help to slow me down. I'm not so sure.

Personally I like the speed of 17.5

Anyway, most of the locals were somewhere in the range of about 15-16 seconds per a lap. By the end of the night I was around 18 seconds per a lap, I flipped my car 3 times in a 8 hour period, so I don't think I'm doing that bad. What do you guys think... should I stick with 17.5 like I want or go down to 21.5 like others are suggesting?
I like to pick the class with the most entries, whichever that is, this way you should have more racers close to your pace

2 - 3 secs a lap off pace is quite significant
Can the locals help you tune that car, or check it over ?

Crashing and such is what practice days are for, nothing to be concerned with, also a good way to find the limits of your settings under race pace
Never practice at 90%
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Old 06-27-2016, 11:07 AM   #1979
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Are you guys using anything to protect the CF body from the suspension arm set screws?
I'm using SpecR Chassis Down Stop Protection Spacer (4pc) - #SPR035-DSP for both, aluminium and cf.

TQrcracing has them in stock.
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Old 06-27-2016, 12:44 PM   #1980
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I'm using SpecR Chassis Down Stop Protection Spacer (4pc) - #SPR035-DSP for both, aluminium and cf.

TQrcracing has them in stock.
same here.. lightweight and easy to install, just stick them on.
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