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Old 01-20-2016, 01:41 PM   #1606
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Hey guys,

I'm letting go of my Evo. PM me if you're interested.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...b-evo-6-a.html

B.
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Old 01-20-2016, 08:27 PM   #1607
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Mine spins freely. Way more than any belt car I've had. You have to start with one gear box at a time. Make sure a gears mesh properly. You might have to add shims to get everything smooth. Then when both gear boxes are free flowing is when you install the shaft. Very important to lube the plastic gears. It helps.
Sorry I might sound like a noob but where should I put the shims?
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Old 01-20-2016, 08:56 PM   #1608
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Sorry I might sound like a noob but where should I put the shims?
Start with the small gear in the gear boxes. Shim it until there's no slop but still free spinning. Then shim the ball diff or gear diffs mess. Make sure it's shimmed where it doesn't move side to side but free. Once you have everything shimmed to your liking. Put the cover on and tighten down the screws. If it starts to bind at that point. Add a .1 shim inside at every screw that holds the cover in place. That will free things up well. Good luck.
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Old 01-20-2016, 09:01 PM   #1609
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Start with the small gear in the gear boxes. Shim it until there's no slop but still free spinning. Then shim the ball diff or gear diffs mess. Make sure it's shimmed where it doesn't move side to side but free. Once you have everything shimmed to your liking. Put the cover on and tighten down the screws. If it starts to bind at that point. Add a .1 shim inside at every screw that holds the cover in place. That will free things up well. Good luck.
I see, thanks for the detailed explanation. I'll try it over the weekend. What shock oil and spring should I use for technical track with short straight and really sharp turns? I'm currently using Lee setup posted on exotek website. Thanks.
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Old 01-21-2016, 10:59 AM   #1610
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I see, thanks for the detailed explanation. I'll try it over the weekend. What shock oil and spring should I use for technical track with short straight and really sharp turns? I'm currently using Lee setup posted on exotek website. Thanks.
What Juan said about the shimming! I've been using 37.5wt oil and hpi silver springs. Works good!
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Old 01-22-2016, 01:43 AM   #1611
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What Juan said about the shimming! I've been using 37.5wt oil and hpi silver springs. Works good!
Thanks. Just to confirm, adding the shim to make both the plastic gear closer to each other? And what diff oil should I use on asphalt with short straight and many sharp turns?
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Old 01-22-2016, 03:32 AM   #1612
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hi guys,

i want to keep you updated about my experiences with my Exo6 car.
after some weeks and 4 Races on carpet (indoor), i had bad luck with some parts of my Exo6.

In general i am happy with my car. i could manage to finish in 3rd or 4th position all my 17,5T Blinky Races. (fix FDR was 4.5 for all racers and brands). Sometimes i was very close the the winner And there have been 10 to 25 Entries depending on the race i attend.
So really quite ok for me.

I know my driving could be better, then i could prevent hitting the boards that often. Then i would be
1.) Faster and closer to the 1st position
2.) not that unlucky with my material.

my uprights loose oftenly the bottom srew. after renewing 54568 it works for a few rides...
C-Hubs have been switched against the TA-05 ones, they last a little bit longer. I only lost the flange tube 1 time.
Diff Housings broke 2 times

All these Things were caused by minor accidents. So just hitting the board side by side, a.s.o.
Unfortunately i had to stop driving all the time, even in the qualifying Heats and A Mains…

Once again, i know i have to improve my driving skills. But in comparsion to Some Xrays, TeamC, WRCs the weakness oft he Evo/Exo 6 is much higher 

Did anybody of you had similar experiences?
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Old 01-22-2016, 03:45 AM   #1613
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my uprights loose oftenly the bottom srew. after renewing 54568 it works for a few rides...
I don't think I've ever had a loose screw. Perhaps you are using the wrong size of the screw? What I found help tremendously was to pre-screw the upright a few turns with another screw before installation so you ensure that it's straight. It's always a PITA to have to fiddle with the screw + all the shims during installation.
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C-Hubs have been switched against the TA-05 ones, they last a little bit longer. I only lost the flange tube 1 time.
The TA05 C hubs are softer plastic, so they do have a bit more flex in them during crashes. I use the TRF416 style which is CF reinforced. They last quite longer, but usually on a big hit, they just snap for me.
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Old 01-22-2016, 07:31 AM   #1614
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You must have been hitting he boards like a rocket to break the diff housings. What part broke / how did it break? I have stripped one of the camber link holes in mine, but that's just a drop of thick CA to repair. Never broke one in any way from impacts. The only problem I ever had was the front c hubs. I don't think it's the material, I think that it is the fact that the pin threat attached the hub to the arm is .1 or .2 mm smaller in diameter than the hole in the cub. This allows for excess movement and leads to breakage. The TA05 hubs are a softer plastic and the correct hole diameter. After switching I haven't had any issues with breakage.

For your screws backing out, you might want longer screws, you should have 1.5-2 threads coming though the top of the toe blocks. This allows for full coverage of the surface area of the hole in the block. It's also a good idea to check those screws after every couple of heats or after a crash. The alternative, but I actually don't recommend it, especially if you use aluminum screws is blue lock tight. You really don't need it, but some swear by it. If you choose to use it, only use the blue, and only put the smallest drop on the screw. If you don't, you will strip the screw head trying to take them out.

Good luck and hope you get you issues resolved.

My drivetrain is pretty free now, but since I have some down time before my next race, I am going to try the bulkhead shimming trick. I'd like to get the drive train to free spin when's motor isn't attached.
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Old 01-23-2016, 05:28 AM   #1615
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My gear stripped in less than 2 months. Is this normal? I'm only running 17.5 non boosted.

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Old 01-23-2016, 10:09 AM   #1616
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Which gear? Spur, input gear, diff gear, spool gear? In any case, that's were some of your noise has been coming from, is have the wrong gear mess. If it's your spur that's stripped, it could have come from the motor moving due to the collisions you've had that break other parts. If you have hit something hard enough to break the gear boxes like you have mentioned, it could easily be the diff/spool gear. If the gear box is cracked/broken, then your diff/spool will not be seated prolerly in the case causing bad gear mess and stripped gears.

Without sounding like a complete ass, I think most of your problems are stemming from poor driving. Like a mention before, if you have hit something hard enough to break the diff case, that is an extremely hard impact. I would tear the car down and inspected every piece for damage, replace anything that needs it, carefully rebuild the drivetrain setting proper mesh in each of the gear boxes. Next turn the EPA down on your throttle. You might not be the fastest on the track doing this, but you will hit less stuff, need less turn marshaling, break fewer parts, and mostly finish more races. As you improve your skills, turn the EPA up to go faster. 17.5 blinky isn't exactly slow, especially on a small track.

From everything you have written, it sounds like you're pretty new to onroad RC. We all were at on time. It's ok. It will just take down time for you to build some skills. Both in building and maintaining your car and in driving. Don't get discouraged. You'll get there.
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Old 01-23-2016, 11:08 AM   #1617
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Originally Posted by theproffesor View Post
Which gear? Spur, input gear, diff gear, spool gear? In any case, that's were some of your noise has been coming from, is have the wrong gear mess. If it's your spur that's stripped, it could have come from the motor moving due to the collisions you've had that break other parts. If you have hit something hard enough to break the gear boxes like you have mentioned, it could easily be the diff/spool gear. If the gear box is cracked/broken, then your diff/spool will not be seated prolerly in the case causing bad gear mess and stripped gears.

Without sounding like a complete ass, I think most of your problems are stemming from poor driving. Like a mention before, if you have hit something hard enough to break the diff case, that is an extremely hard impact. I would tear the car down and inspected every piece for damage, replace anything that needs it, carefully rebuild the drivetrain setting proper mesh in each of the gear boxes. Next turn the EPA down on your throttle. You might not be the fastest on the track doing this, but you will hit less stuff, need less turn marshaling, break fewer parts, and mostly finish more races. As you improve your skills, turn the EPA up to go faster. 17.5 blinky isn't exactly slow, especially on a small track.

From everything you have written, it sounds like you're pretty new to onroad RC. We all were at on time. It's ok. It will just take down time for you to build some skills. Both in building and maintaining your car and in driving. Don't get discouraged. You'll get there.
+1

On another note. I just installed the Tb-04 ball diff in one of my rides. Man this thing is smooth. Can't wait in a few weeks to get to the track to test. Easy to adjust if needed.
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Old 01-23-2016, 12:02 PM   #1618
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Does the ball diff change the gear ratio? Or is it the same as the gear diff?
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Old 01-23-2016, 12:21 PM   #1619
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Does the ball diff change the gear ratio? Or is it the same as the gear diff?
Same gear
I was surprised how well my exo worked with a ball diff
Haven't run one of those in a TC since the 414 days
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Old 01-23-2016, 01:24 PM   #1620
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Same gear
I was surprised how well my exo worked with a ball diff
Haven't run one of those in a TC since the 414 days
👍! Looking forward to mine. Just ordered a second one for my other ride in case I like it.
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