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Old 03-27-2014, 06:42 AM   #1
fmm
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Default Help: What lipo battery do I choose for touring (modified) cars?

Hi all,

I am new in modified touring cars an I am looking for batteries.

I would appreciate your help, as now I am very confused and don't want to fail in my selection (I am coming from 2wd buggy where the batteries are not as critical as in touring)

My intention is to compete in some local club races and maybe something more (but initially the batteries are for club races)

I found HRB lipo batteries (6000mah and 60C) for a reasonable price, but I have never seen this brand before, so I would appreciate if someone who has used them, can explain his/her experience with them.

I have also checked Nanotech, but I have read all type of comments (positive and negative). What do you think about these batteries? I have in mind the following Nanotech batteries:

Nanotech A-spec 6200mah and 65C/130C
Nanotech 6000mah and 65C/130C
Nanotech 6600mah and 65C/130C

Which one of these three Nanotech batteries is the most appropriate for touring cars? Which one perform better and has longer durability? Do you know the difference between regular Nanotech and a-spec?

The third alternative is Speed Energy. They seems to be the same batteries as Intellect, but they are the most expensive of my three alternatives. I would prefer to stay on the price range of the Nanotech batteries.

I am open for any other suggestion of "price-reasonable" lipo battery.

Apologize for all the questions, but as I said in the beginning ... I am completely lost and any help would be very beneficial to me.

Thank you very much in advance!

Last edited by fmm; 03-27-2014 at 06:58 AM.
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Old 03-27-2014, 07:28 AM   #2
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I strongly recommend buying the best batteries you could afford if you plan on running Mod touring - the motors draw large amounts of current very frequently, and require batteries that can keep up with demand. However, if your ESC uses a current limiter, you can get away with using cheaper batteries - just set the limiter at a fairly low level and you'll avoid most battery related issues.
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Old 03-27-2014, 08:15 AM   #3
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Thank you very much the response! I really appreciate it.

Do you think that any of the batteries I am considering would be appropriate for touring?

I know that touring modified demands a lot of battery power and this is why I am totally confused. I don't know if batteries like Nanotech would be a good enough or if I should go for the next level (something I would prefer not to do it, if possible)

Thank you again
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Old 03-27-2014, 08:26 AM   #4
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I suggest the promatch batteries any pack upwards of 6000/80c will work great and for 65-80$ they r awesome batteries I run the IP 7600/90c packs tho they r heavy 340g! I ran all last season 1/8 buggy and all my tc cars (300+ cycles) with their IP 7200/80c packs r 320 grams and they still going strong being almost a yr old.
Another great option is the EA motorsports 6500/70c I think packs .. they r great for the money as well and weight about 310g
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Old 03-27-2014, 08:34 AM   #5
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The nanotech batteries are probably fine (even though I have no personal experience with them). I worry more about batteries for stock racing, where every minuscule amount matters. In mod the motor will make up for any battery deficiencies. A lower C pack may even improve lap times on tight track by knocking the edge off the punch. The torque of the mod is what makes it challenging to drive and knocking this edge off can make the car easier to manage. I'll even undercharge sometimes to make the car easier to drive.
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Old 03-27-2014, 09:52 AM   #6
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I feel like the battery doesn't make as big of a difference in mod. Lots of guys at my local track (and even Ronald Volker, one of the best in the world) has only been charging to 8.0-8.2v instead of the full 8.4 to take some of the initial rip out of the battery. This is on carpet, btw.

I know for me, personally, I can run some of my fastest laps towards the end of the pack in mod, simply because the car gets easier to drive.
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Old 03-27-2014, 10:03 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hyujmn View Post
I feel like the battery doesn't make as big of a difference in mod. Lots of guys at my local track (and even Ronald Volker, one of the best in the world) has only been charging to 8.0-8.2v instead of the full 8.4 to take some of the initial rip out of the battery. This is on carpet, btw.

I know for me, personally, I can run some of my fastest laps towards the end of the pack in mod, simply because the car gets easier to drive.
Indeed. I'm faster in mod on carpet with my 2 year old batteries than with my new Orion 90C 6500mah lipo's if I do a full charge. Since I found that out, I don't charge them to 100% anymore and that makes me faster indoors.
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Old 03-27-2014, 12:44 PM   #8
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Fast guy at our very large outdoor asphalt track runs the A-specs in his mod sedan with no problems at all. If they can hold up to 130 track temp with a 220ft back straight geared for 60mph+ for 7 minute heats/mains then I'm sure you will have no problem.
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Old 03-27-2014, 02:08 PM   #9
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Thanks guys for all your answers! I really appreciate them and they are very helpfull to me.

I will investigate a bit more the recommendations above (promatch, AR motorsports, etc.) but it seems that I will most probably go for the Nanotech.

Regarding Nanotech, does anybody have a recent comparison between Nanotech 6000mah, Nanotech 6600mah and Nanotech a-spec 6200mah? Some old comparisons say that Nanotech 6000mah performs better than the other two, however my opinion is that the a-spec are supposed to be made out of better materials and components, therefore durability and performance should be better than the regular Nanotech. Any comments on that?

Again, thank you very much all!
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Old 03-27-2014, 02:17 PM   #10
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I have both the nanotech 5600 65c and the 6200 a-specs which I use in offroad 1/8th (2x2s). I use LRP packs in mod touring car.

The A-Specs are definitely better than the standard nanotechs. They feel more punchy and the runtimes are longer. The standard packs started to puff after 20 cycles whereas the a-specs have no sign of puff after 50+ cycles.

My advice would be go for SMC or some other major brand for mod touring but if you have to go for nanotechs then at least go for a-specs.
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Old 03-27-2014, 02:47 PM   #11
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Just get Thunderpower packs, and forget about it !!!
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Old 03-27-2014, 02:57 PM   #12
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Batteries aren't that important in mod racing. As morgoth pointed out it can actually be a benefit to run batteries that aren't as punchy. There is no lack of power for mod class, and if there is you have the wrong motor rather than the wrong battery.
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Old 03-27-2014, 03:31 PM   #13
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Ok! Thank you very much! I think that I am getting a very good picture of the batteries I need.

Just one final question (a silly one )... Is there any difference between the batteries with the 4mm connectors embedded into the battery case and the ones with a wire and a external connector?

I prefer the ones with the connectors embedded into the case (the ones you need to connect the "banana" plugs directly to the battery case) due to the esthetics, but I don't know if there are some others technical reasons (performance, etc) for choosing one or another (actually, the ones with the wire and the external connector are typically cheaper)

Thanks a lot!!
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Old 03-27-2014, 04:01 PM   #14
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No real difference. I prefer the inboard (embedded) connectors because it allows you to run batteries either forward or backward. Sometimes with the prewired ones, you can only run it in one direction.
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Old 03-27-2014, 04:11 PM   #15
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It's nice to see this thread hasn't turned into an SMC worship thread.....
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