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Old 08-07-2005, 03:49 PM   #1
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Default Motor trouble

Ok, my epic binary 2 9x1 has been overheating ever since i cut the soldered brushes off and put new ones on with terminals, when i started running my new brushes they cars power dropped off drastically after about three minutes....i touched the motor can and it was at normal heat....but when i touched the endbell it was blazing (even lit a match off it for giggles so i wasnt so pissed)the brushes were extremly discolored from the heat. the motor did not overheat at all before i put the new brushes on. I will give you all the specs of my car the will effect the motor......my chassis a TA04-R, the motor is geared at 8.03 (128t spur 34t pinion), im using an epic 3000mah sport pack w/ deans plugs, my esc is an lrp pro sport, the motor leads i am using are the golden no solder leads, the brushes that are currently in the motor are ep1200 (cross cut serated, dual shunt w/ terminal), i am NOT using deans plugs for the motor leads, and have NOT soldered the brushes to the endbell, before running the car i have also cleaned the comm with a comm pen. does anyone know why my motor is over heating from the given specs?

thanks in advance,
dave
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Old 08-07-2005, 03:52 PM   #2
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Did you break the new brushes in before you ran the motor?
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Old 08-07-2005, 03:54 PM   #3
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no i didnt.....would this be the main cause of the problem?
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Old 08-07-2005, 04:06 PM   #4
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Could be... The first 2-5 minutes of brush life are the most important... When the comm is first cut it is perfectly round "or at least it should be".. The new brushes need to be seated to the comm, not every brush has the "exact" diameter as the comm... This being said if you ran your car on the track for break in, all they did were bounce up and down off the comm, causing arcing.. I.E. Lots of heat... Try this next time, cut the comm, be sure to clean with exacto between comm seperations. install new brushes w/solder! Run motor at 2 volts for 2 mins with zero load. After that is done remove the springs to look at the brush face.. You want to see that the brushes have worn from corner to corner on both brushes, if not just repeat untill they do.. then you can go race.
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Old 08-07-2005, 04:16 PM   #5
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thanks a lot for the help Pat! some more questions tho :P.......how do i get rid of the solder that is already on the motor? If i dont solder my brushes on what will be the affect of that? and about the other motor....the team orion rush 11x2 motor was brand new when i got it.....most motor's brushes that are brand new do not need broken in. What would be the cause of the team orion rush 11x2 overheating? This motor is fairly cheap but is very quick could it just be poor quality and connot handle the current?
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Old 08-07-2005, 04:32 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big_dave
thanks a lot for the help Pat! some more questions tho :P.......how do i get rid of the solder that is already on the motor? If i dont solder my brushes on what will be the affect of that? and about the other motor....the team orion rush 11x2 motor was brand new when i got it.....most motor's brushes that are brand new do not need broken in. What would be the cause of the team orion rush 11x2 overheating? This motor is fairly cheap but is very quick could it just be poor quality and connot handle the current?

to resolder on brushes you don't need to get rid of whats there, you just dont want a big glob.. the affect of soldering on brushes, well as long as your brush hoods are "super" clean on the inside, not much... Most of the currect flows right from the hood to the brush anyway, the shunt on the brush is only rated for 10 amps max anyway.. But when you solder them on you still have a fighing chance if your hoods are dirty.. when motor are new unless they came with some kind of dyno report, the motors have never been run, so yes they need to be broken in too..
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Old 08-07-2005, 04:36 PM   #7
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What do you mean when you say the "brush hoods" and also....ive ran that motor about 3 to 4 times now and the same thing keeps happening should i break in new brushes and then clean the comm??
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Old 08-07-2005, 04:43 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big_dave
What do you mean when you say the "brush hoods" and also....ive ran that motor about 3 to 4 times now and the same thing keeps happening should i break in new brushes and then clean the comm??
When i say brush hood I mean the part the brush slides into... And yes new brushes and a cut.. You need a lathe for this, don't use that comm pen/stick... I personally dont like them, I find all that a good for is putting a low spot in the comm where it "cleans" P.S. If you try to break in a new set of brushes on an old comm your asking for more trouble than you have now.
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Old 08-07-2005, 04:46 PM   #9
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What about using very fine grit sand paper say 250-300 grit?.... could i just pinch it down and spin the armature?
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Old 08-07-2005, 04:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big_dave
What about using very fine grit sand paper say 250-300 grit?.... could i just pinch it down and spin the armature?

No.. Don't do that, If don't have one I'm sure some one you race with does.. I use a Lathe that use a diamond bit, when I done with the cut the comm is "perfectly" round and super smooth..
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Old 08-07-2005, 04:57 PM   #11
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what lathe is good quality but still isnt going to burn my wallet up..would you happen to know?
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Old 08-07-2005, 09:34 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by big_dave
what lathe is good quality but still isnt going to burn my wallet up..would you happen to know?

Maybe you could look up www.speedtechrc.com for some of the lathe they carry.Some ain't that expensive as you think...

As for the heat,maybe you can try a different and more conservative gearing.Like going down on a teeth.
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Old 08-07-2005, 09:44 PM   #13
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thanks for the site ......yea heat is a real issue right now for me im as low as i can go for the gearing.....i tried out another motor just not too long ago broke in the brushes, everything that pat told me to do and and still im getting the same result......way to much heat and it was a new comm...im getting really confused now
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Old 08-08-2005, 05:56 AM   #14
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Go to www.motortuningsecrets.com for a detailed explanation on motor tuning.
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Old 08-08-2005, 02:51 PM   #15
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Hey, thanks! hopefully this will help me out with my problem too ........and if it doesnt well then i have no clue i guess im gonna have to go out of town to a decent hobby shop there are none around here....... maybe they can tell me exactly WTF is wrong with my car lol......you guys seem pretty knowledgable though ......these forums are always gonna be my first result if something goes wrong ...thanks again guys
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