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Old 08-08-2005, 07:06 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by handyrandyrc
Sorry, but can I just butt in here for a moment? Hey there, Mr. cars.cars.cars., I noticed you join just a few days back, and now you are starting piddly threads left and right. Can you please save it? I know it may be fun to boost your post count on other forums, but this really isn't the place for it.

We don't mind helping, but what you seem to be doing is just to boost your count. You come on here, asking this vs. that questions and "how fast?", "how much??" I'm through with your threads. Welcome to my ignore list. Please use more courtesy in the future.

Randy
"How fast" and "How much" and "Brand X versus Brand Y" are a few questions that the long time users of this forum have seen hundreds of times. Of course it becomes boring to answer the same questions asked over and over again, but it's everyone's duty to keep on answering these questions if we want this hobby to survive. Newcomers have to feel welcomed.
"How fast","How much","Brand X versus Brand Y" are all legitimite questions coming from someone who is just getting into this hobby. Experienced RCers asked themselves the same questions when they started. Sometimes, they just don't remember their newby days.
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Last edited by mistercrash; 08-08-2005 at 05:48 PM.
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Old 08-08-2005, 02:55 PM   #32
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Well said.

Besides, nobody is forced to reply.
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Old 08-11-2005, 05:07 PM   #33
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Okay, siince when is a person's post count a measure of his knowledge or experience on the subject? It shouldn't! Whatever a persons's post count does not matter so it shouldn't be an issue.

Next. $840 ?????????? No body says you have to start with pro level equipement just to race. You could race for less than $400. That would cover the cost of a good RTR sedan (i.e. Losi XXX-S or AE TC-3 or TC-4) plus a decent charger and (2) base level NiMh packs and a cheap bulb discharger.

When you start, are you gonna be racing in Sporstman class???? Probably not. You'll most likely be starting in novice class learning th stay in the middle of the track consistently throughout a 4 minute race which is no problem for any base level 3300 or 3700 pack. Don't worry you will definitely make time without dumping. With you being so busy trying to concentrate on how to control you car and drive a better line than your competitor, you will not have the time to figure out all the tuning options on a pro-level car or radio.

Concentrate on driving not the equipment
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Old 08-11-2005, 10:02 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by pops
Go to Pro-Match, they have great batteries and you can order them assembled.
http://www.promatchracing.com/main.htm
Hey cars.cars.cars dude. Buy yourself some unassembles packs and teach yourself how to build them. (there heaps of instructions lying around on the web). It's best to be able to rebuild your packs if you need to coz god forbid promatch's super dooper soldering method should fail, it be best if you were confident in fixing them. If you want some cheap pacsk to learn how to drive on then try maxamps.com. Their cheap and nasty but their good enough to start off with.

Cheers
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Old 08-11-2005, 10:08 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mistercrash
"How fast" and "How much" and "Brand X versus Brand Y" are a few questions that the long time users of this forum have seen hundreds of times. Of course it becomes boring to answer the same questions asked over and over again, but it's everyone's duty to keep on answering these questions if we want this hobby to survive. Newcomers have to feel welcomed.
"How fast","How much","Brand X versus Brand Y" are all legitimite questions coming from someone who is just getting into this hobby. Experienced RCers asked themselves the same questions when they started. Sometimes, they just don't remember their newby days.

DAMN STRAIGHT!!

Well said my man

Thank god we participate in a hobby where there is no monopoly on products and options. I love it that there are up to a dozen different cars, motors, batteries (more recently) and body options and combinations that are all as good as each other adn we can pick these according to our driving styles and visade!!
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Old 08-12-2005, 08:03 AM   #36
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I totally agree with YR4Dude & Kennedy. The losi or the associated rtr are great choices. Just keep away from maxamps, try hefty cells or hurricane motorsports. They both have great cells and are same price or cheaper than maxamps. There is no need to spend $840.00 to get started. You spend that much & don't like it your in trouble. When you try to sell it later you might get a little over half of what you paid.

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Old 08-12-2005, 04:10 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by handyrandyrc
Sorry, but can I just butt in here for a moment? Hey there, Mr. cars.cars.cars., I noticed you join just a few days back, and now you are starting piddly threads left and right. Can you please save it? I know it may be fun to boost your post count on other forums, but this really isn't the place for it.

We don't mind helping, but what you seem to be doing is just to boost your count. You come on here, asking this vs. that questions and "how fast?", "how much??" I'm through with your threads. Welcome to my ignore list. Please use more courtesy in the future.

Randy

If you don't like it then leave. Us newbie's come here for info from experienced people. Everyone has to learn someway or another. If all you are going to do is be a forum troll and try an start a flame war then buddy you just made my ignore list. BTW Nice Picture!!!
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Old 08-12-2005, 04:17 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by WRXTC
If you don't like it then leave. Us newbie's come here for info from experienced people. Everyone has to learn someway or another. If all you are going to do is be a forum troll and try an start a flame war then buddy you just made my ignore list. BTW Nice Picture!!!
LOL, nice jab with the picture comment. Looks like a total beta male with the keyboard courage right there.
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Old 08-12-2005, 04:56 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by Ben.C
That heat sink is more then a motor heat sink,its more like a Motor Freezer!! Your motor will be so cold,its like you place ice on it.And this is very importanrt as heat builds up during a run,the motor will lose its magnetism due to the extreme heat produced.Thus reducing overall performance.

So by using the Much more motor cooler,the motor will start off freezing and will come back not as hot as normal run previously.
Now lets not start this guy down the wrong path here ok. The much more motor cooler is not all what is cracked up to be. You will be lucky to get the temp of the motor down to 50 degrees with it. Its just not made correctly. Now the one that Micros_rock makes would be a better choice and they do get down to high to mid 30's. Which is more benifical in motor performance.

As far as a heat sink on the motor goes it will help a lil bit. but remeber when you install it make sure that the cooling holes in the can are not blocked. I think a better alternitive is to install some onboard cooling fan or fans.

just my 2 cents
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Old 08-13-2005, 01:39 AM   #40
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LOL, nice jab with the picture comment. Looks like a total beta male with the keyboard courage right there.
I couldn't agree more, I wonder in which society post count matters maybe it's the uber nerd keyboard club.
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