mab_man20

iTrader: (6)

BigDog: You reccomend charging at 6-7 volts for stock. How is the life of these cells at that charge rate? Being a college student im rather poor so being able to run three packs all season and still have some kick in the last main is important.

What do you reccomend for a 19T spec class?

thanks

Avink1

you don't need to charge them at that high of rate, 5 amps seems to work well for all classes of racing.

BigDogRacing

iTrader: (12)

Haven't had a problem yet. Never had a problem with 3000HV's at 7 amps either.

Personally, I believe the amp rate decreasing the life of the battery is a wive's tale (to an extent of course). I believe if a cell takes a dump from 7 amps, it would have taken a dump at 5 amps also. You would have to prove to me where a higher percentage of packs charged at 7 amps lost cells before the same batteries lost cells at 5 amps.

Most matchers will tell you- cycling batteries at 30 amps is just a way of finding the weaker cells early. It doesn't mean the cells would have lived at a 20 amp discharge, it just means they found the bad one before someone purchased it.

Keep in mind that I stated "to an extent". I wouldn't expect the IR to stay low for long on a pack that I was regualrly chrarging at 10-12 amps.

Avink1

the reason why matchers discharge at 30 amps is to weed out the weak cells, i'll agree with you on that, but the percentage of cells that seem good at 20 amps will be higher than that of the cells discharged at 30 amps. so just because a cell doesn't survive a 30 amp discharge doesn't mean that it couldn't seem like a good cell at 20 amps. also if you look at the way that matchers charge their cells its normally at 5 amps. World Class Batteries recomends charging the cells at 5 amps with a .03 cut off, i've tried this and it works very well.

RBLove

iTrader: (90)

GP's are strong and have an excellent recovery time. For stock racing charge at 7 amps with a .05 cut off....................

mab_man20

iTrader: (6)

thanks guys.

Doug Gaut

Well, after reading the ROAR forum I was wondering what the Factory Pros are running for batteries at the ROAR santioned events? The GP3300s are not legal and dont look like they will be and NORRCA is a 3000mah only santioning body from what their site says. Any comments?? I dont want to start a heated discussion, I was just wondering what the factory guys are doing since they are usually the ones hardest on the batteries in the mod classes and are usually on the cutting edge for support equipment.

kevin2

I just picked up some GP3300s i love them there much better then my non matched packs

Schuieracer

Certain charging methods seem to benefit the GP's greatly, most punchy cells i've ever run. Ultra Metals are the closest thing to them as far as punch.

shrekair

iTrader: (9)

what are u charging at?

ausracer

has anyone compared these cells to the sanyo 3300's. ive seen that you can get the gp cheaper and with better numbers then sanyo.

TSR6

iTrader: (5)

Sanyo v.s. HP is like HV v.s. SMH

The GP's have lower voltage, and lower resitance, while the Sanyo's have a higher resistance, with a little higher voltage.

mab_man20

iTrader: (6)

The sanyo ones also tend to last longer. Look around, some places sell the sanyos pritty cheap. Check out http://www.promatchracing.com/ for the best prices ive seen and the batteries are awesome!!!

Trixter

I run Stock Truck at my local track. I have a (notice i said A) pack of GP3300's. I charge it at home at 5 amps and take it to the track in my truck. Run a practice session, recharge it and if i have time I run another practice session (usually about 4 or 5 minutes). Then I recharge it, check everything, and I am ready for the first heat. I run it, and immediatly recharge (at 5 amps) with my Tekin BC112 C using the CS mode. Then I go corner marshal and when I get back it ususlly has peaked, but if not I watch it till it peaks. Sometimes we only have one other class (gas trucks) so I am up again for the second heat. I run it and again right after, I put it on the charger again till it peaks. Corner marshal again and am ready for the main. Run the main and the pack is better than it was the second heat. After racing I take it home, discharge at 30 amps, let it cool to room temp and then charge it at 5 amps for 4 minutes and leave it till the next week. The pack is getting better all the time, is very stable and reliable.
I am considering selling all my other packs, (about 15 of them) and going all the way with one.
I got the pack from Pro Match when they first came out. I am very happy with the GP3300's and even if ROAR doesn't approve them I will use them (it) from now on.

Rick {A happy GP3300 user and abuser}

Jarrod Langlois

iTrader: (1)

bump