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Old 05-03-2004, 07:49 AM   #1396
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Quote:
Originally posted by mafiaracers
If you're getting soft, then you should adjust your gearing....or cut the motor.
Is this a statement or a question?
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Old 05-03-2004, 08:41 AM   #1397
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Default Stupid question

Just want to ask, when would you know when to replace brushes? Is it when the serration are gone from the brush? How many runs would you do before its due for replacement?

And i heard diff diameter of the commutator makes a diffrence? In this case will the monster go quicker when you cut the comm down to a certain diameter?

SOrry for the ignorance.

-Luie
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Old 05-03-2004, 09:12 AM   #1398
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Quote:
Originally posted by mafiaracers
If you're getting soft


Quote:
then you should adjust your gearing....or cut the motor
Yeh, it probably needs a cut....I had about 12 runs on it, and it was a hot day...Monster magnets suck anyway, I've had them go out on me before...Gearing was correct

I think I'll try to put this Monster arm into a Core Stock can next time....
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Old 05-03-2004, 09:17 AM   #1399
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Default Re: Stupid question

Quote:
Originally posted by FUK_WRX
Just want to ask, when would you know when to replace brushes? Is it when the serration are gone from the brush? How many runs would you do before its due for replacement?

And i heard diff diameter of the commutator makes a diffrence? In this case will the monster go quicker when you cut the comm down to a certain diameter?

SOrry for the ignorance.

-Luie
Duuuude....Those questions are....actually fairly intelligent

Brushes -Depending on the brush about 20-30 packs

For Monsters I hear the smaller the comm the faster...Monsters are a POS anyway...I was considering going back to the Core for the sake of better magnets and more torque even though the Monster totally owns the Core on any thing bigger than a small-technical layout

This is why I want to go 19 turn & ditch stock....more power AND more than one competative motor
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Old 05-03-2004, 09:24 AM   #1400
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Default Re: Re: Stupid question

Quote:
Originally posted by The Black Kat
Duuuude....Those questions are....actually fairly intelligent

Brushes -Depending on the brush about 20-30 packs

For Monsters I hear the smaller the comm the faster...Monsters are a POS anyway...I was considering going back to the Core for the sake of better magnets and more torque even though the Monster totally owns the Core on any thing bigger than a small-technical layout

This is why I want to go 19 turn & ditch stock....more power AND more than one competative motor
Thanks, i though would be kinda dumb question.

20-30 runs then my monster due for a brush change and a skim on the comm. Will be using reedy 767's hopefully they run as goood as the stock ones. The reason why i asked is because the lenght of the new 767's are still the same as my old brush so i got rather confused, and i has gone through about 20-25 runs.

I would run 19T class if only there a class in my club where i race on. I guess this class wont come aroud until quite some time. We dont even have a permanent track here
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Old 05-03-2004, 09:25 AM   #1401
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Default Re: Re: Re: Stupid question

woops
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Old 05-03-2004, 05:21 PM   #1402
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I've never tried 767's in a Monster yet...Tried them in the Core and it adds a lil kick in the pants over the stock brushes.

I'll probably try them in my Chameleon before long...

As long as they are not discolored (ie: Purple in any places, really really dark) you can use them....That reminds me of the day my dad burned his 19t's brushes....the brushes were LITERALLY TURNED GREY!

I gotta get a new mod motor (ie: Revolution) I burned my D5's brushes purple in three packs in off-road
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Old 05-03-2004, 05:44 PM   #1403
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Default Fatdoggy

767 and 729 are the same Quasar compound. One is lay down and one is stand up. That is why you are getting the same performance.

I have the best of luck with the 767 on both sides of all motors. After the serations wear off, I drill a 5/32 hole in the center of the brush. It keeps the brush face clean with no arcing or burnt marks on the brush. Try it, no jig needed, just hold the brush in your hand, make sure you hit the center and drill with your hand. I have a small Pin vice (drill bit holder) and I just turn the bit with my fingers.

Try it and see how clean your brushes stay.
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Old 05-03-2004, 06:17 PM   #1404
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Actually the 766 and 729. Not 767.
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Old 05-03-2004, 06:59 PM   #1405
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Wink Getting Soft is a big issue for some of us...

seriouesly though. In stock racing, while it may occour, it really shouldn't. Mod motors use stand up brushes for a reason....Less cogging. Cogging is the main thing behind power draw. If you were to take your D6 and put stock laydown brushes on it, there's no way you'd make a race. Cogging also makes power. Thats how a stock motor can be fast...using laydown brushes and having a higher cogging effect.

Thusly, if you cut your brushes a bit on the edges to trick the motor into believeing it has a stand-up brush. In turn, you will have less cogging, heat and power.....but more runtime and efficiency.
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Old 05-03-2004, 09:40 PM   #1406
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This is why ROAR needs to allow dual & handwinds in stock

Stock motors kinda suck.....
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Old 05-03-2004, 09:53 PM   #1407
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Default

Personally, I'd like to see an unlimited stock class. I know, I know...19 turn. I mean like, as long as its a stock motor arm....anything else is acceptable.

I'd like to see a B2 stock arm in a D6 can with a V2 endbell and bearings of course....at about 20 degrees.
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Old 05-03-2004, 10:00 PM   #1408
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There yeh go!

I gotta get that kinda class going on...LOL
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Old 05-03-2004, 10:07 PM   #1409
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Default Putnam Monster stock

Who is the best company to by the excessive force stock motors from in the States. I use RC4LESS but is there a company with a better range of other stuff as well.
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Old 05-04-2004, 04:38 AM   #1410
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Default Thank You KilRuf,

The wider the brush the more the amp draw. Narrowing the brushes changes the amount of time the brush contacts the arm. this is why 4 cell racers narrow the brush to make run time. It is a trade off though. You loose torque.

This is also why MVP gets hot, It has too much brush on the comm at one time. cut em back and the motor comes to life. Is fast and doesn't overheat.

David Root
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