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Old 02-14-2004, 03:34 AM   #1321
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there is a difference in response speed, but it is such a small amount you wont even know the difference.

Best stock brushes are trinity 4499. motor stays cooler, more torque and revs.
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Old 02-14-2004, 06:25 PM   #1322
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hey guys what you guys think are the best springs and brushes for a monster horsepower ?

thanks
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Old 02-14-2004, 06:30 PM   #1323
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I run double green springs on the Monster in my Touring car. Red on positive and green on negative also works great. As for brushes, I usually only use Trinity 4499's or Reedy 767's. These are only my preferences, and some other people my have different beleifs, but most everyone I know uses that set up.
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Old 02-14-2004, 08:36 PM   #1324
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Unhappy Brushes

I would like to know what the feeling is on the trinity 4505 and 4504 brushes. I'm pretty tight w/$ when it comes to consumable materials like brushes and comms. The angle serrations on these make a lot of sense to me engineeringly speaking, but do they lay down the power like the 767?
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Old 02-14-2004, 09:23 PM   #1325
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Default angle serrations

Guys;

Having the serrations at an angle does seem to offer a slight advantage. However once they are worn off, there is no way for us the racer to re-serrate them back at an angle.

As for Monster Stocks in a TC, Red/Red springs make the best combination of power and rpm than anything else.

Greens offer a slight rpm increase at a loss of power (watts).

Purple springs are almost too heavy for most Stock motors, even in a TC. If you need that much more Torque, it is probably better to go with a different Motor and re-gear accordingly.
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Old 02-14-2004, 09:33 PM   #1326
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I personally dont like the 4499's or 4505's all that much.On a Fantom Dyno they show close characteristics of what Reedy 767's do.But you get less wear and a cleaner comm with my experience using the Reedy's.
When using a dyno like the TurboDyno or Quillen you will see how much BETTER the 767's are in most motor's.
Plus as a side note.TRINITY brushes ONLY work in Epic canned motor's.
Reedy,Orion/Peak,Integy,Corally Stock motor's HATE trinity brushes.
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Old 02-14-2004, 09:48 PM   #1327
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Post armature centering

I am having trouble cantering the armautre in my monster stock.once i get it close to being centered and assembled there is no play of the armature in the can, the arm spins free or it seems to. does the arm have to have play?
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Old 02-14-2004, 09:56 PM   #1328
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you mean up and down play, moving north and south inside the can? Yes, it must have that play, so when power is given to it, the arm sits in a little magnetic field. Finding the right play is your judgement, not to much, just so it can move so if you look into the can, you can see alittle space in between the arm and the can. Now if it's wobbling side to side, then your bushings are bad, or your arm is not balanced(or your arm, lets call them the silver parts), and not straight.
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Old 02-14-2004, 09:58 PM   #1329
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yes I am talking north and south THANKS for the info
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Old 02-14-2004, 10:28 PM   #1330
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or get an Anonymous Monster
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Old 02-15-2004, 12:13 AM   #1331
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Default Brushes for Monster Stock

Quote:
Originally posted by SuCioDiFiciL
hey guys what you guys think are the best springs and brushes for a monster horsepower ?

thanks
Try using a Putnam Green for both + & -.
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Old 02-15-2004, 09:57 AM   #1332
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What he said

When I moved to putnams on my mosters I added about 5-10% performance accross the entire rpm range on them.

For TC, serations seamed to help a bit too. Red/Grn springs looked better on the dyno, but red/red or purple/red springs feel better on the track.

Putnams are also very hard. You will notice a performance decrease after 3ish runs if you don't turn the comm. I tried a very slight narrowing of the brush face with a small file last weekend and that seamed to cut down on the burning because of a smaller overlap. Didn't notice a decrease in performance on the track though, the did comm looked better after the run. I just added a chamfer on the leading and trailing edges of about .005-.010 inches (very small).
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Old 02-15-2004, 10:07 AM   #1333
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If you guys will be careful while using tribo and tribo alone it makes Putnam greens and Hurricane Gold Brushes last alot longer.The brushes and Comm will last quite a bit longer.Expecially in mod.

Note On Tribo-Dont expect HUGE performance gains.It's not a true comm drop.But it will help across the board,help with keeping the motor cooler due to increased effic and will make ALL brushes last ALOT LONGER.

In stock Tc I put a couple of drops on the comm and spin the spur 360 degree's.

In 19turn you can put 3-4 drops on the comm.Turn the pinion or spur to spread the tribo across the comm and brushes of the motor.

Mod you can do whatever.I know Mike Reedy Swears by it.
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Old 02-15-2004, 10:14 AM   #1334
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Default Re: armature centering

Quote:
Originally posted by sns820
I am having trouble cantering the armautre in my monster stock.once i get it close to being centered and assembled there is no play of the armature in the can, the arm spins free or it seems to. does the arm have to have play?
There seems to be alot of confusion on just exactly how much endplay is needed. Ever check a tuner Motor, LOTS of endplay.

Ideally you want .004-.005 in each direction from center (.008-.010 TOTAL). It doesn't have to be exact and slightly more is better than too little.
Just take your time, and you will get it right.

Comment:
On several of my EPIC based Motors, I've had to lap down the inside face of the endbell bushing to get enough endplay for just 1 shim betwwen the bushing and phenolic washer.
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Old 02-15-2004, 10:23 AM   #1335
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lapping is a good idea anyway to make sure that the thrust surface is as smooth as possible.

good point pops
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