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Old 01-09-2004, 12:49 PM   #1246
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For a oval of any kind, you can't hardly go wrong with a any of the modern EPIC motors... The more RPM they have, the more fussy they are with gearing and setup. However, the higher RPM ones also seem to go faster then the lower RPM ones do when they are setup correctly. So to some degree it depends on your skills in keeping a motor running well... If you want one that's farily easy to work with, maybe a P2K2 would work fine.... If you don't mind fiddling and you have the skills to do it well, a Monster is very capable of setting track reocrds.... If they allow them... the new EPIC 'outlaw stock' motors are capable of going even faster...
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Old 01-09-2004, 12:52 PM   #1247
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Default ZIREX

The reason they are probably going faster is in part due to the batteries they use. If they have more voltage and lower IR then they will have more punch out of the corners and higher top speeds down the straights. Motor preparation and bush/spring combos will yeild higher power from the motor also. That is something that only a dyno will tell you about different motors.

I have a friend that I race with that uses the same techniques for prepping his motors as I do, but he has some batteries that are much better than mine. The end result is he is faster down the straights.

I generally just use the advise of those that have the equipment to test motors and go from there (like using red spring on + and green spring on -). I also try to make the drivetrain as free as possible to allow the motor to show its full potential.
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Old 01-09-2004, 02:02 PM   #1248
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Default Tamiya Type-RR

Quote:
Originally posted by Zirex
Can somebody help me??
I currently using the Tamiya Type-RR rebuildable stock.When it is new, it is fast.But then after using it for few months problem start to rise.I lay the comm for a few times but it doesnt seem to be as fast as the new one.I'm using a diamond bit Hudy lay machine.BTW is there any way to squeeze the optimum power from a rebuildable stock??Any tips to make it faster??Because i played with a few top local driver in my country.Using the same type of car,battery,motor etc. but theirs seem to be going much much faster than me at the long straight.
Can somebody pls help me out??

Any tips will be much appreciated!!
Tips in bring your motor back to life:

1)Cut the comm
2)Replace the brushes
3)Polish the bushings and armature shafts
4)Remagnetize the magnets-very important

Regards,
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Old 01-09-2004, 02:16 PM   #1249
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Quote:
Originally posted by PitCrew
Well, T uses some "creative marketing" techniques. As far as the moster goes, it is a very fast motor, and the few I have had enough torque to use on a fairly small indoor track, in a truck. Weak magnets do increase RPM, but it has nothing to do with "cogging" Cogging is when, in a standup brush motor, one pole of the motor is not being energized for a small percentage of the armatures rotation. The reason the RPM goes up is because there is less drag on the motor during the armatures rotation where the magnetic field is no longer helping the arm spin the same directioin, or during a moment of 'cogging', where that particular pole is moving through the magnetic field, unenergized.
by cogging i ment the notche ness.sorry
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Old 01-10-2004, 12:51 PM   #1250
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Default Re: Tamiya Type-RR

Quote:
Originally posted by danjoy25
Tips in bring your motor back to life:

1)Cut the comm
2)Replace the brushes
3)Polish the bushings and armature shafts
4)Remagnetize the magnets-very important

Regards,
First of all thanks to Imuiru for your infor...
Thanks to danjoy25 too...
But how am i gonna "Remagnetize the magnets" ??? Is there any equipment to do it ?? Anyone got any idea bout it ??
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Old 01-10-2004, 01:10 PM   #1251
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Yes there is a magnetizer, some shops may have them. They are quite expensive, but ask around and someone may have one to zap your can.
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Old 01-10-2004, 01:13 PM   #1252
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Default Motor brush break in

While breaking in brushes at 3 - 4 volts, what kind of amperage draw do you look for (low or higher) for better performance.
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Old 01-10-2004, 02:25 PM   #1253
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Amp draw means very little... it's best not to use it as a judge of motor proformance.
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Old 01-11-2004, 12:47 AM   #1254
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Default Orion revolution

Has anyone heard the rumor that Team orion may be going to produce a revolution based stock motor ?

Food for thought
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Old 01-11-2004, 04:04 AM   #1255
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Default Re: Re: Tamiya Type-RR

Quote:
Originally posted by Zirex
First of all thanks to Imuiru for your infor...
Thanks to danjoy25 too...
But how am i gonna "Remagnetize the magnets" ??? Is there any equipment to do it ?? Anyone got any idea bout it ??
Try this one and let me know how you go. I myself will be trying to make one of this things soon

The basic process of re-magnetizing involves placing the depleted magnet core/motor can through a coil of wire which has a momentarily strong "DC!" current passing through it.

The coil is made on a form consisting of a 540 motor can diameter round dowel fitted with flat end plates - similar in appearance to a typewriter ribbon or film reel. Duon sa gitna lulusot ang motor can. The width of the form, or the distance between the end plates is 7/8". At least one of the end plates needs to be removable so that the finished coil can be removed. It is suggested that strips of cotton or other insulating material be used to cover the form before the wire is wound on.

For 6V DC Current

The coil itself is made up of 196 turns of #16 AWG enameled covered wire laid down in 14 layers of 14 close wound turns each. This amounts to a pound of wire - a unit of measure in which the wire can be bought. When you are finished with the windings, you need to continue with the taping so that the coil will not fray and will stand up to use. Perhaps you might want to attached sturdier multi-strand lead-in wires such as you find on a power supply transformer. Just make sure that the "hole" in the coil is kept clear for its intended use.This coil, as designed, should draw about 12 amps on a 6 volt motor cycle car battery.

12V DC COIL

In order to accommodate the higher voltage, change the wire size to 22 AWG and increased the winding to about 200 turns.

A safety point, you must be VERY cautious and aware that either voltage version of this coil will heat up quickly due to the fairly high current draw. However, as indicated below, only a momentary application of voltage to the coil is necessary.

The actual re-magnetizing process goes like this;

The motor can, armature and endbell removed, is slipped through the coil. Position is not important so long as some part of the magnet is ALL the way through the coil.

A "keeper" of soft steel MUST be in place across the pole faces before the coil voltage is applied. this is very important in order to properly conduct the magnetic lines of force through the magnet core. The keeper must lie smooth and flat on the pole faces - just like they did on those toy magnets that we had when we were kids.

The coil is momentarily placed across the supply voltage - for no more than a second. Again, be VERY careful at this point concerning coil heating. You could, of course, use a power supply instead of a battery, but you'll need one that can supply about 15 Amps.

With your third hand(!?), and while the coil is connected to the voltage, strike the magnet with a sharp blow with a small hammer. Presumably this helps the steel molecules to align magnetically.

So that's it. Careful re-assembly your motor, it should be good as new. If you burn yourself while doing it, I take no fault and make no guarantees!

Rgds JT
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Old 01-11-2004, 06:40 AM   #1256
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Being the cost of the Orion Revolution they have already stated that a Stock Motor of this type will NOT be produced.
They may try to incorporate the brush design but in a cheaper style motor to keep cost down.
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Old 01-11-2004, 07:07 AM   #1257
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Default The Best Thing

you can do to make sure your stock motor is putting out its best power is make sure the brush hoods are clean and aligned properly.

Everything is important, like spring tension, brush compound and bushings being in good shape, but if your hoods are off by much, its a loosing battle.

Just put a set of NEW brushes like the ones in it now, run it for 10 seconds at low voltage and remove them. Look at the wear pattern on the brush. It should be right down the center. If it is great, if not, make adjustments and have a faster motor.

MOST stock motors will be close in power if geared right.

Just my opinion
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Old 01-11-2004, 11:07 AM   #1258
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Default Xenon Motors

Anyone tried the Xenon Racing motors?
I just purchased the Xenon Momo stock, would like to know your experience on it, THANKS!
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Old 01-12-2004, 02:38 PM   #1259
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Racing on carpet with rubber tires, medium sized tracks..what stock motors are best? And what brushes and springs are good?
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Old 01-12-2004, 10:43 PM   #1260
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Default Re: Xenon Motors

Quote:
Originally posted by lawndoggie
Anyone tried the Xenon Racing motors?
I just purchased the Xenon Momo stock, would like to know your experience on it, THANKS!
JDM's comment in 23T stock motor thread will be your best guide. i've ran xenon stock red as well as the slanted-comm momo; the latter is slightly better imo
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