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Old 11-09-2002, 05:37 PM   #826
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Default Aligning the brush hoods?

Do you need a special tool to align the hoods? If not how is it done?

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Old 11-09-2002, 06:54 PM   #827
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to align the hoods you can get a special tool but even with the hoods aligned the brush kicks sidways in the hood
so it dosent sit strait.
i dont align the hoods as such i align the brushes by kinking the hoods so the brush sits and wears strait.
you need to do it with the same size brush you are going to use
as diferent size brushes kink different.
i get the brush and color it with a permanent marker
put it in then run the motor out of the car then check wear the marker has worn of.
if not rite in the center of the brush then i kink the hood and repeat the prosess untill the were mark is in the center.
alfter that i bed the brushes in then true the com.
get perfect alignment that way..
it works for me but others may have a different way
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Old 11-10-2002, 07:57 PM   #828
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Default Lots of Motor Arms and Cans, Please Help

Ok guys here is the deal. I recieved a bunch of armatures, cans and endbells in a trade. I measured all the comms and could tell that they have never been cut, I believe the guy took them all apart to have that done but never did. I have cut all the comms with my lathe/diamond bit and now I want to assemble the motors but was wondering if it matters what arm goes into what can? I put a couple together a few weeks ago with 767 brushes and installed a red spring on the positive and green on the negative. I also made sure the arm was centered in the can and that the bushings were broken in. The motors were pretty darn weak and thats why I am wondering if I need to match the cans and arms. I can tell I have an assortment of P2k's, P2k2's, and a couple of Orion(chome cans) and some GM3's. If I do need to assemble the cans and arms a certain way maybe someone can explain how I can tell the P2k and P2k2 arms apart etc.... I believe the Orion arms say "top" on them? Also, if I should be using another brush and spring combo please let me know.

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Old 11-11-2002, 10:19 AM   #829
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If you are racing, you'll want to be careful. It is illegal to mix arm/can combinations from different manufacturers when racing stock.
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Old 11-11-2002, 03:57 PM   #830
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P2K has an orange tag. P2k2 = More surface has been cut off of the armature laminations.
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Old 11-11-2002, 10:43 PM   #831
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Default quick motor question

will an unshimmed motor arm have a propensity to find the magnetic center when running, or will it be repelled until it hits one of the bushings. some guys shim the motor really well, while others leave quite bit of play. if the motor will find the center, then maybe the play is a good idea, just in case your off in finding the center. ya know?
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Old 11-12-2002, 04:49 AM   #832
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I don't know exactly what happens when the motor's running, but when the arm is under-shimmed, you end up with an "elliptical" look to the comm wear, instead of a straight line - so I think energy is being wasted bouncing the comm up and down instead of turning it.
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Old 11-12-2002, 06:17 AM   #833
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According to Big Jim, The motor will slam up against one side then the other. With shims the movement is less and arm stays closer to the center of the field.
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Old 11-12-2002, 02:59 PM   #834
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thanks nitro. big jim's the man, so i guess i'll take that for the truth. i kinda figured that when current goes through, it's the force of repulsion that turns the motor, so common sense would tell me that it would also want to be repelled axially away from the center in addition to radially. thanks fellas.
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Old 11-14-2002, 05:23 PM   #835
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How are these Monster Stock motors? Anybody have dyno numbers?

Thanks
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Old 11-14-2002, 05:44 PM   #836
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The armature will find magnetic center while it's spinning. That's why when you shim the motor you spin the armature to find it's center then pull or push on the output shaft to figure out how much you shim. Nitro's right about the armature slamming back in forth. But I'm not sure how much energy is wasted by the comm moving. My theory is (and i'm no expert) is shimming is good so the motor will spin up smoother since it's not moving sideways in the can when not centered from rest. There's probably info about it on Big Jim's forums.
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Old 11-14-2002, 06:30 PM   #837
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The main thing on shims is to make sure it's not shimmed too tight and that the arm can rotate in the "sweet spot." I usually try to reduce the amount of play down to around 1mm or less in either direction by using varying thickess shims. Integy sells a pack of teflon ones with several thicknesses in the pack.
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Old 11-14-2002, 07:46 PM   #838
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Default Greasing the bushings

I was told by someone at the racetrack last weekend to put a little dab of grease where the shims contact the bushings inside the motor.
Anyone have any thoughts or comments?

2) Does anyone one use com lube? Not Drops, but a lube (like Tribo)

Thanks
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Old 11-14-2002, 07:57 PM   #839
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Speedo, I don't have dyno numbers, but they are fast. Everyone at my local track is running them. You'll need to change springs & brushes, then true the comm, but after that they are great. I was asked to show the race director my arm last sunday due to the motors speed in my TC3.
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Old 11-14-2002, 10:14 PM   #840
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Actualy, on my dyno, the Monster doesn't really look like much(though it does have LOTS of top end), its torque looks like even less than the Green Machine 3, so power numbers seem a bit low. But in the car, they seem to run very well when geared correctly. Overall, I'm impressed(though I still have some experimenting to do).....
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