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Old 09-11-2002, 07:46 AM   #781
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To power them you need to solder or place under spring as a temp. What I do is run a slave motor and 1 brush at a time. Both brushes with a slave will generate arcing as per Big Jim. Works for me.
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Old 09-11-2002, 08:10 AM   #782
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correct me if I am wrong, but using a slave will rotate the comm in the wrong direction thus causing the brushes to cock in the wrong direction unless you make it so the slave motor rotates in the opposite direction...right?
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Old 09-11-2002, 08:20 AM   #783
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correct. I reverse the slave. Its an old motor I have for that purpose.
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Old 09-11-2002, 08:42 AM   #784
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Ok, now that all makes sense to me...

Here is what I am drawing from all this...Just a recap really...

1. Use a none-serrated brush, you guys are recommending the 766 from Reedy
2. Use a slave motor, since this will prevent arching which could cause false results I guess??? or does it make the wear mark harder to see?
3. Make sure the slave motor rotates in reverse...

To correct the hood alignment:
1. Loosen both the spring post and other screw holding the hood and using an alignment bar turn the hood slightly to the opposite side of the offset wear mark, so if the wear mark is slight ahead of the rotation turn the hood back...
2. repeat until right down the center of the brush...

Thanks guys....You da'men!

Next topic...properly breaking in bushings....
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Old 09-11-2002, 09:17 AM   #785
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Checkout Big Jim's motor black book" Has a lot of good info from one of the premeir motor designers and builders. Designed the P2K.

On break in, I do one brush so it does not arc and burn the brush. At 3 volts wear in minimal anyway. FYI I use a Turbo 35 to run and breakin motor. Lets me regulate the voltage better. Note on some hoods, MVP especially you have to elongate the slot. Big Jim recomends to do the spring post side only.
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Old 10-24-2002, 05:28 PM   #786
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Hi
I've been racing or some time now but never used comm drops, can anyone explain how they work?, why should I use them?, do they improve motor performance?, finally what comm drop brand do you recomend?
Thanks
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Old 10-25-2002, 08:14 AM   #787
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Comm drops help to reduce friction between the comm and brushes. The effectt doesn't last that long. Some come drops are better then others builit makes a good comm drops it adds some RPM and Efficiency to the motor and last a little longer. Bad side to comm drops to much of it attracks dirt.
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Old 10-25-2002, 12:09 PM   #788
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Quote:
Originally posted by rowdyrj
Comm drops help to reduce friction between the comm and brushes. The effectt doesn't last that long. Some come drops are better then others builit makes a good comm drops it adds some RPM and Efficiency to the motor and last a little longer. Bad side to comm drops to much of it attracks dirt.
Everything that rowdyrj said above is correct. I use TRIBO, it's a synthetic oil and it works great. Apply half a drop on the comm before the race. TRIBO last longer than any other comm drops in the market, in regards to it's performance. The key with TRIBO is that it has to be applied to a clean comm and motor. What I mean by that is the motor or comm should not have been exposed to any other comm drops. if you try to use TRIBO with a "dirty" motor (other comm drops used and residue still on brushes or comm) then it wont work. TRIBO is VERY easy on the comm. I got me a BigJim motor and some TRIBO for the beginning of our race year, which started in late February, and I only cut the comm once. I've changed the brushes twice. The motor is still top notche in it's class. To get the most out of your gearing while using TRIBO, go down/up in pinion size, depending on your track size. I go up one at our track. BigJim, I think, states to go down 1 size. After every run, you have to spray the motor out. This gets old but it's worth it.
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Old 10-25-2002, 12:21 PM   #789
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I would recommend cutting your comm every time you change your brush. I read the input above and said the comm has only been cut once, but brushes have been changed multiple times. Try cutting the comm next time you replace your brushes and I am sure you will feel the difference. I also believe Big Jim recommends this same method.
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Old 10-25-2002, 12:59 PM   #790
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I;m not sure about that one Rob but I'll check out bigjim's website. I know the drops are easy on the comms so that you don't have to cut the comm that much. I can tell you that I still get some serious result when replacing the brushes and not cutting the comm. I know that's the rule of thumb, cut comm when replacing brushes. I just haven't needed to do so, as of yet.......knock on wood
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Old 10-25-2002, 01:56 PM   #791
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Even if the brushes were made of teflon and had NO friction, you would still need to cut your comm. This is due to an electroplating process. Just like gold plating. When the electricity comes from the (-) side through the wire and out the (+) side, it takes a little bit of material from the comm and sticks it onto the brush. That is why there is a small amount of burning between the poles on the comm. That and just plane ole dead shorting!
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Old 10-25-2002, 02:27 PM   #792
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When you replace brushes, break them in, then cut the comm. Otherwise, you lose some of the benefit of a cut comm.
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Old 10-25-2002, 03:09 PM   #793
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Have you guys tried TRIBO? pyscho, Pit Crew?
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Old 10-25-2002, 03:12 PM   #794
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Yep. Works great. I use it for bushing lube and comm drops. Just make sure you clean out the motor well and replace the brushes before using Tribo if you've been using some other comm drops. Most comm drops cause a chemical reaction with the brush and when that mixes with Tribo, you get a big mess!
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Old 10-25-2002, 03:19 PM   #795
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Yeah pyscho I know, I use it too. The reason I ask is because one of the benefits of using this is you don't have to cut the comm as often. I'm not saying that I don't cut my comm I cut it less than anyone else on the track. Maybe I can cut it more often than what I'm doing now, I don't argue that but I don't and it still works for me.
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