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Old 08-08-2002, 09:44 AM   #721
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Sosidge is right about finding 'dead-center' of the magnetic field but the next step I was told was to shim the gap at the pinion end of the arm then shim the endbell end leaving only a tick of play.

I am sure there are many other methods and techniques.....so lets see them again.
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Last edited by RCCadet; 08-08-2002 at 09:51 AM.
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Old 08-08-2002, 09:49 AM   #722
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seaball - try putting a small pinion in so u can grip the arm, then spin it so it spins a little after u let got and it will reach center on its own
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Old 08-08-2002, 09:51 AM   #723
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That's about what Big Jim says in the motor black book. However, he does say always run a shim on the pinion end. Also do not shim the motor tight as my bud did here. Loss of performance and adds heat!
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Old 08-08-2002, 03:14 PM   #724
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-seaball- You can use toothpaste to break in the brushes. It's best to use a slave motor to spin the motor to be broken in. That way you don't have to worry about yur brushes getting their flouride--Al
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Old 08-08-2002, 03:51 PM   #725
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u mean bushings?
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Old 08-08-2002, 07:06 PM   #726
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Yeah, bushings--sorry!! I've got two kids and haven't been able to hold a train of thought for many years now!!
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Old 08-08-2002, 08:06 PM   #727
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Toothpaste LOL sorry I think I will stick to polishing the shaft with wet & dry and then metal polish, see Big Jims web site for details it works and you dont remove any bushing material


http://bigjimracing.topcities.com./
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Old 08-09-2002, 04:29 AM   #728
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Try a woodworkers micro polishing cloth. 1500 - 12,000 grit (1 micron) Works great.
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Old 08-09-2002, 03:08 PM   #729
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Toothpaste does work really good. I think it has to be the "whitening" stuff though, because it's designed to be a polish for teeth. After you've used it to break in the bushings for awhile, spray it out and you should be good to go. For centering the arm, what I do is take all the shims out, but leave the Teflon shim that goes next to the comm in. Put the motor back together with the brushes out, put a pinion on it, and give 'er a good spin. I pull the arm, spin it again, pull it, spin it again, and so on, until I have a good idea of how much play there is on the pinion side of the motor, then shim it. Then I do the same for the endbell side. Also, some motors seem to want to be shimed all the way to one bushing or the other (most of mine that are like this are slower), but on all my motors including these, I like to put a teflon shim on the very end. It's kind of like a self lubricating shim for the bushing.
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Old 08-09-2002, 07:30 PM   #730
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I mess with them a little bit and all of them r super fast next week i'll buy 10 mvp's and do the same thing u have to love this stuff!!!!!!!
Wanna sell one or two?
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Old 08-09-2002, 08:11 PM   #731
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ahil8 -- actually big jim has mentioned toothpaste a few times on the hobbytalk board. There is always more than one way to skin a cat!

The reason toothpaste is a light abrasive is becaue of diatoms (here's your science lesson for the week) Basically they are microscopic skeletal remains of sand dollar and star fish shaped organisms. My friends used to call me cliff claven...
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Old 08-12-2002, 08:55 AM   #732
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alright guys welcome to brush talk!

i've always just been told and just gone and put 4499 or 767's in my motors and forget about them. but i felt it was time for a change. what kinds of brush combinations have you guys been using? right now i found 2 new favorites. i'm really liking axiom 12% w/ cavities pos/neg. with a p2k2 it came out at 127w 29,850 rpm, avg power 83.7w. that was with axiom red pos, green neg springs. i also had another motor witht eh same setup but a GM3 come out very well i think it was 126w 31,000 rpm, avg pwr was 81.8w and it ran strong. i also tried a gm3 and went 767-769 pos-neg with stock trinity springs and it was like 130.2w, 31,980 rpm, 84w avg pwr.

anyone else find soemthing they really like? i realise this hobby is highly competitive but its nice when people can actually share what they found and maybe findsomeone elses hot setup.
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Old 08-12-2002, 09:49 AM   #733
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shrekair - I have a BigJim P2k built motor and we placed the 767's in both the neg and pos. I went on his site about 3 weeks ago and saw that he changed the brushes on them so I did the same.

766 with slight serration on the neg and 767 on the pos. Red spring on the os and Green on the Neg., with the right amount of tension on them, the springs that is. He sells a fiddle stick that is suppose to be a great tool to accomplish the correct tension on the springs.

I can tell you from my experience the combo of brushes on mentioned above work really well on my p2k motor. That with some TRIBO, it's a great combo
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Old 08-12-2002, 09:55 AM   #734
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i think someone also told me to put a 767 pos, 4499 neg and that would increase torque. i havent tried it but i'm sore from the weekend so i'll have some mo hum dyno time.
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Old 08-12-2002, 10:00 AM   #735
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shrekair-The Axiom 12% brushes are very similar to a Ready 769 which is the same compound as a 767 with a hole. Usually the hole helps raise the RPM a little bit and cuts some torque. When I did run at your track I used a cavity brush because your track is on the large side, at my home track I use a full face brush because I need all the punch I can get. It seems that all the high silver brushes work well (Axiom 12%,Putnum,4499,767) but some people have better success with different ones. I personally don't have good luck with Putnums or 4499's, and always use Axiom, if we are out I then go to 767's

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