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Old 03-25-2002, 07:35 PM   #451
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Cole,
My understanding of the #767 brush is that it's harder than a #766, this may help to explain why it's taking so long to break in.

The Spitfire isn't exactly a rev happy motor, more low down torque(I think that's why the Pro ones come with quite light brush springs, to allow them to rev a bit). On a low voltage break in I assume it's just not doing high enough RPM to wear the brush face quickly.

Try the Peak 2221 brushes again or Reedy #766's. When I ran my MVP/#766 combo in, it took about 5-8 min then the brushes were spot on.

Anyone interested in "Profiling" their brushes, check the attachment I posted above, on the previous page.

I will try and get pics of exactly how I cut mine, I have an Eagle brush cutter but still use something I came up with at home which works just as well.
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Old 03-25-2002, 08:32 PM   #452
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The spitfire is very torque happy. When I dyno'd one, it had about 10 percent more torque over a P2K, but it is way down in RPM. Like Simon said, running lighter springs would probably be the way to go.

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Old 03-25-2002, 08:34 PM   #453
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Cole, another suggestion, try some comm drops. Big Jim is a walking advertisement for TRIBO, but I believe just one drop of any comm drops will work. Typically I don't use drops for breaking, or ever, but in your case they might help.

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Old 03-26-2002, 02:16 AM   #454
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Hey guys, thanks for all your help.

I'm already using Trinity speedy drops. One drop on each brush for break in, and again between each meeting.

In the beginning I geared my Spitfire like 25-26/93 (48 dp, Sport2, very tight track). I found that the motor was really hot. So I ended up with 23/93. This way there was more punch and I could still maintain a reasonably top end. My P2K gear: 24/93.

The Reedy 767, if they're harder, will the comm wear faster? If not, I'll go back to the Peak 2221 brushes or Reedy #766's later and use the 767 for a while. even if it dont perform great, it's an experience...

Meanwhile, I'll try another gear. I dont understand, that the Spitfire should be more torqy, than the P2K. It doesnt fit into my experience.... Should I try gearing like 25/93 with the Spitfire?

Is it better to break in motors on only 2 cells, but for a longer time? Normally I use 3 cells.

Last edited by Cole Trickle; 03-26-2002 at 02:21 AM.
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Old 03-26-2002, 11:01 AM   #455
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hi, has anyone have an idea to make stock motors run consistently througout the 5 minutes heat. my motor starts strong but at the middle of the race it gets weaker though i'm using a smh 3000 and it has more than enough juice to give. BTW, my motor is a p2k2 from fantom (untuned) with FDR of 6.6 on my yok sp!
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Old 03-26-2002, 11:11 AM   #456
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The motor is most likely getting hot. There are two things you can do 1 gear down 2 try different springs on the motor, a little bit stronger spring should help.
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Old 03-26-2002, 03:01 PM   #457
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When was the last time you replaced the brushes? If you did replace the brushes did you have your com cut? Those are some of the bigger things to look at.

For most sedan racing you will want to run a red spring on the positive and a green spring on the negative and a good set of brushes, i.e. Fantom 315's, Reedy 767's. Those will give you good power and last a little while.

Now if you want some serious h.p. try a set of the Putnam brushes but they require a little bit more maintenance than the 315's, and 767's.
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Old 03-26-2002, 05:24 PM   #458
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I can attest to the putnam brushes. This weekend I was at the Carpet Nats over here in california. The fast guys in stock were doing 13.8-14.1 second laps. I was doing 15.0-15.4 and I have marginal batteries and so-so driving skills. I ended up using silver on the pos. side bent slightly to take off just a hair of tension and a red on the neg. bent slighty to add a hair of tension. Geared at 6.44-that handout was hauling a$$!! A little tribo helped out too.
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Old 03-26-2002, 05:39 PM   #459
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For a start, anyone not using a clip-on heatsink with a stock motor should buy one. This will help to lower the motor temperature during a race. Integy sell one very similar to the Eagle 8 fin one I use.Pictured

Cole,
I use a 4 cell pack to break in brushes and power my lathe. Anywhere from 5 to 10 mins run-in.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg natsside.jpg (81.4 KB, 124 views)

Last edited by Simon K; 03-26-2002 at 05:41 PM.
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Old 03-26-2002, 06:57 PM   #460
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Anything to watch out when using tribo?

After about second heat my motor dies.
I clean the comm with comm stick and motor cleaner after each heat, dry it, put a drop of tribo before the next heat.
Then motor doesn't start after second heat. Happened twice already.

I suspected the cleaner or tribo. But I never had any problem with cleaner.
Or the combination of cleaner, tribo?

My motor's completely new.

Any comment?
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Old 03-26-2002, 07:29 PM   #461
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What your guys stock motors drawing for amps on a T35? I got mine up to 10.34! lol
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Old 03-26-2002, 07:35 PM   #462
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Corey-

My Fantom p2k2 with cut comm and new brushes pulls about 11.5amps.... but the efficency sucks on the motor. I bet you money that if you put that on a Dyno your efficency will not be all that great. My Core Stock motor that is ausome pulls about 8.6 amps on my T35. My other really good P2K2 pulls about 8.25 amps.

The T35 is not really a good tool for looking at that. Now if I adjusted my brush hoods on the Fantom P2K2 then it will probably pull about 8.5 amps. but that is just my lathe and brush serrator motor

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Old 03-26-2002, 08:04 PM   #463
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I think if you use Tribo, you need to clean out the motor after each run for best results. Otherwise there can be a buildup of gunge.
I also use it on my motor bushings and they are fine.

As has been mentioned previously,
Don't use any other brand of drops with the same brushes.
Use a fully broken in brush with a freshly skimmed comm for best results.

I had heard that the Tribo doesn't perform as well with some silver brushes, I can't corroberate this as I have not been able to try any yet.
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Old 03-26-2002, 09:13 PM   #464
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Quote:
Originally posted by Simon K
I think if you use Tribo, you need to clean out the motor after each run for best results. Otherwise there can be a buildup of gunge.
I also use it on my motor bushings and they are fine.

As has been mentioned previously,
Don't use any other brand of drops with the same brushes.
Use a fully broken in brush with a freshly skimmed comm for best results.

I had heard that the Tribo doesn't perform as well with some silver brushes, I can't corroberate this as I have not been able to try any yet.
Thanks for the tip.

I cleaned motor with comm stick, motor cleaner after the heat then dried it and applied a drop of tribo on comm.
I think there were dirts got stuck between the brushes.
I need to be more careful with it 'cuz it's a bad time to find out that my motor doesn't run a few seconds before the main.
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Old 03-26-2002, 10:18 PM   #465
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At a serious meeting after each race....
I take my motor out of the car and clean the comm with a fibreglass comm stick. I then inspect both brushes and polish with one of those Rubber comm sticks. Whether or not I use the tribo depends on the day. Last track I raced at was huge and the motor ran well untreated.

On a club day...
Have not used the tribo on the comm for a while now, due to not being keen on cleaning the motor after a "Club race" which is basically a bit of fun.

Don't put a lot of Tribo on the comm, just one small drop should do.
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