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Old 03-13-2002, 11:51 AM   #406
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Quote:
Originally posted by rcruv


Thanks.
I was out on sales calls yesterday, sorry I didn't respond earlier. Thanks acloco
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Old 03-13-2002, 12:15 PM   #407
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Quote:
Originally posted by psycho
Can someone explain how you go about aligning brush hoods, what tools are necessary, etc?
Niftech has a tool that you can use. I would only use the brush piece to do this.

Run your motor with a 4 cell battery for about 3-5 minutes. detach the motor from the battery and take the brushes out and see if it has a shiny spot in the corners, if so then your hoods are out of alignment. loosen the spring post(slightly) and the screw that holds the end bell down. Put your tool in the brush hood and turn it lightly the direction of the shiny spot, and tighten down the end bell screw and the post. The key is to get the shiny spot in the middle of the brush. Also not much force is needed to manipulate the hood so be careful. Repeat this procedure on the other side.

Once complete, take a comm stick to the brushes and clean them up. Put the brushes back in the hoods, with the springs in place and hook up your battery and run it again for about 3-5 minutes. Take the brushes out and look at it, are you near the center? if so congratulations your hoods are align.

Do this with some old but still good brushes. Once the hoods are align, get the comm skimed over once and now you can install your favorite brushes and break them as usual.

Remember if you use TRIBO make sure that the comm, magnets, brushes, end bell and the can are free from any residue left from any other comm drops.

What I like to do when I get new motor is have a buddy clock me, with a stop watch, from one point to another. Align the hoods, make the change (if any) to my brushes and have him clock me again. Run the motor as gear with 1 drop of TRIBO and have him clock me again. gear it up1-2 teeth higher and have him clock me again. From the initial clock to the final I see an improvement.

Good luck
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Old 03-13-2002, 09:22 PM   #408
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p2k2 stock brushes run it for about 4-6 packs then cut the comm and leave the brushes in and the re cut the comm about every 3-4 runs 5 runs even. on a large carpet track we gear either 6.7 to 6.85 or some guys run them at 7.15
when u re-cut the comm just clean the brushes w/ a fiberglass pen and dont touch the brushes untill u've cut it maybe 12-12 times. running it this way has been fast!!! good luck
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Old 03-14-2002, 07:21 AM   #409
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exactly shrekair, no need to change the brushes everytime you cut the comm, just clean them, the brushes that is.
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Old 03-14-2002, 10:03 AM   #410
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Default Putnam brushes

Just got some blue and green shunt Putnams; haven't put them in the motor yet. What's the difference between the two colors?
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Old 03-14-2002, 10:46 AM   #411
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coolrcdad - Green shunt has higher silver content and should be used on the pos side.
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Old 03-14-2002, 10:59 AM   #412
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coolrcdad, the Putnam brushes are a little different than any other brush out there. What a lot of people recommend doing is to run the brush in the motor so that the serrations wear down a little bit. Then go ahead and cut the com and run the motor for a little bit again to reseat the brushes and then you are good to go. What happens is the brush is hard enough it grooves the com where the serrations are so that is the reason behind break in, cut, and break in again. I am sure you will be pleased with the results.
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Old 03-14-2002, 02:53 PM   #413
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Default comm-cranking?

I was wondering: I heard something about Twister making a comm-cranking tool. Comm cranking is supposed to be illegal, I guess. How would one go about cranking the comm? not that I would want to cheat or anything...

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Old 03-14-2002, 06:59 PM   #414
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Kraig (or others) - Which springs do you recommend using with the Putnam brushes? I have Trinity red, green and purple. Thanks.
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Old 03-14-2002, 07:40 PM   #415
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re comm cranking

yes, it is illegal because the stock motors are supposed to have the timing locked at 24 deg. Comm cranking allows you to change the timing of stock motors.

when you change the timing on motors that allow it, you rotate the endbell and therefore change the position of the brushes in relation to the plates in the commutator.

think about it. if the endbell is locked, then the brushes are at a fixed point in relation to the comm. so if you want to change the position of the brush/comm contact, you twist the comm.

it's easy to detect though, cause the plates in the comm are ALWAYS MANUFACTURED in a fixed position in relation to the armature stack. so if the tech inspector is worth his salt, he should be able to spot this with relative ease.

if you want to read how to do it, it's in the motor black book. it's discussed for the 540 silvercans, but the theory is the same.
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Old 03-14-2002, 08:57 PM   #416
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I would recommend a red on the positive and a green on the negative. If you are running on a tight track with lots of turns, try 2 reds.
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Old 03-16-2002, 02:19 AM   #417
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Default Cleaning spray

Dear all,
Is WD40 suitable for cleaning the armature?

I've been using a degreaser, and I am thinking *perhaps* due to the degreaser, 3 of my motors had their winds dropped out.

Thanks.

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Old 03-16-2002, 02:57 AM   #418
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I have heard that WD40 is NOT really suitable for use on the moter at all, but I cant remeber why - sorry

I have always used regular motor spray on the arm of my motors and none of them have fell apart yet! If you try this just make sure you let it air-dry, coz if you blow on it to dry it quickly, loads of water will condense on the arm and, more importantly, the com, which means shorting when you run the motor.
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Old 03-17-2002, 07:44 PM   #419
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Wink

I ordered a BJ MVP and some TRIBO a while back now.

First time I ran the motor I think the bushings were still a little tight, unfortunately this was at our on-road nationals and I resorted to an MVP I had tuned myself. I ended up running the BJ motor at a few clubdays afterwards, to loosen things up a bit.

Last weekend, I cleaned it, skimmed and replaced the brushes for a meeting at one of the larger tracks in the country. I thought that getting a good gearing sorted was going to be a bit of a mission as the circuit is huge. Long story-short, I ran 5.69 to 1(MR4 SP), PEAK Viper 135+ and 115- springs and #766 Reedy brushes and the car was a rocket. Finally.
Due to only having to slow down for one hairpin, the motor did the 3 qualifiers and 3 finals without maintenance being required. I didn't use the Tribo on the comm, just on the bushings.

Very Happy with the motor now and I'm looking forward to getting one of the new "CO" motors from Jim as soon as possible.
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Old 03-18-2002, 04:32 PM   #420
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BJ's MVP should be geared at 6.92 or 7.2. He started polishing the stems on the arms now instead of the bushings. Not sure why you encountered that, did you ask him?

Did you replace the brushes with his narrow versions? Glad to hear everything worked out for you. I'm waiting on that CO motor also, should set the new standard in stock motors
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