wolfeman09

I am replacing the stocks shims in my motor with teflon ones and was wondering if there is anything special i should do. I was told the play should be minimal but not to much, is that correct?

Richard Abbott

The tightness or looseness of the shim job you do is not as critical as making sure your motor is in it's "happy place" in the magnetic field.

Be sure to load your arm into the can, and screw the end-bell back down with no shims at all. Observe or us a Sharpie to mark where the arm likes to sit in the can. Then shim to that mark.

Remember a little play is good. As magnets heat up, the magnetic field produced changes shape, moving the sweet spot.

marvi

iTrader: (82)

anyone here tried banzai stock motors? are they the same as GM3's? they look alike.

wolfeman09

Has anyone rebuilt their P2K2 yet? What brushes did you use?

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

Banzai probably buys there motors in bulk just like every other motor tuners out there. All motors come from 2 or 3 major manufacturer's, Yokomo (Reedy), Epic (Trinity), Orion. Everybody buys them in bulk and then either tunes them or just package them up and sell them.

As for rebuilding the P2k2 motors, I have used Reedy 767 and Team 1 4140's and both provide exceptional power. I have not had any luck with the "E" brush from Trinity but I think I just got a bad brush which can happen. Putnam brushes also provide good horsepower and they will soon be available from KT Hobbies.

was ist los?

i have a question about my mvp. why are the heatsinks not blue. i got the motor when it first came out. can any of you tell me why this is so?

Kraig

iTrader: (81)

Apparently the first batch of motors released missed the blue heatsinks. The prototype had them and that is what they took the pictures of.

TamiyaFF

I haven't raced actively in 3 years. On my Quartz mod, they told me I had to solder a diode, as well as three capacitors, between the posts. Do I need to do this on the GM3, as the capacitors are internal?

sosidge

You don't need to add capacitors to the GM3.

Run a schottky diode if yours is a forward-only speed controller which recommends one.

Super Narrow

I know this is dump but i am going to run stock with my TA03, what's a better pinion teeth to start with? i've got the finer gears on the 03

also is there really a preformance difference between a p2k2 and mvp?

Yorkie

Tried some Orion pro stock brushes in my GM3 and it made a huge difference in punch and top end speed. I also noticed I had more power left in the batteries after the 5 mins.

I am going to try the Reedy 768 serated brushes in my Rage R but i was wondering if I could use the Trinity red / green brush spring combo on the rage?
If the 768s work well could I try these in the GM3?

The only down side to the serated brushes is that they only last one race meeting. What is the name of the company that makes the tool for re-cutting the serations in the brushes?

Is the Trinity red / green brush springs the best combo for stock racing?

Thanks

Yorkie

sonneteer

Yorkie....

I think it was Cobra who makes the tool.... I saw on in our last racec meeting.... I may be wrong....

ImGoinRCn

iTrader: (4)

I think Rcetech,(Bolink), makes a serated brush cutter. They make one that doesn't serate also. You'd have to check out thier site.

marvi

iTrader: (82)

i have one made by racetech (it attaches to a motor and comes with a cutting bit). but the serrations are not as deep as the serrated brushes that you buy. i use it mainly for reusing brushes on my practice motors. or for breaking in new brushes.

Kevin K

iTrader: (32)

Yorkie......Pro-match makes one and sells it here in the states.....it puts "FACTORY" serrations back into the brushes. They have a website Promatchracing or some thing like that. Also Trinity used to make one but now I have only seen it in the Brush cutting factory that has a brush sloter and serrater all in one.