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Old 12-30-2001, 04:17 PM   #331
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i race 12th scale stock on a rather open track. i was talking to the fast guys who have been racing for over 10 years, and they are all using comm drops. i was wondering what you guys suggest for comm drops (which brand, specific tips on use, that sorta stuff)
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Old 12-30-2001, 11:01 PM   #332
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Default switching armatures

ok,now from my experience with these motors,no doubt that the 3 rotor style arms are not very good on the bottom,but if you replace that arm with a 2 rotor style arm shouldn't you be able to gain more bottom end.because the can design is different mainly the can is thinner w/different hole pattern on the can.if you use a torque arm with a rpm setup why is it you should not lose any bottom but gain more top end out of a torgue arm.would that not be more efficent?what i mean is reduced magnetic flux cross over is reduced so a arm that would turn say for example 20,000 rpm in a p2k setup,then why shouldn,t gm2or3 setup turn 25,000 rpm with the same arm in it.just my bright idea.thanks,mike hamrick.
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Old 12-31-2001, 11:39 AM   #333
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olewarrior-You may be able to find a good combination by matching different arms and cans, but in staock racing this is not permited by the rules. Making a motor ike this is called a hybread. ROAR does not allow this mainly to keep costs down, so the racer does not have to buy 2 motors to make 1 competitive motor. You can only run arm/can combos that the manufacture has released for sale in that cnfiguration, this also applies for mod motors. Trinity currently has 3 motors for 3 different rpm ranges, add in spring and brushes and you can get a motor to do what ever you need.
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Old 12-31-2001, 01:29 PM   #334
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Default switching armatures

well as far as your interpetation of the rule book,why is it that trinity sell gm 3 setups only,you ain't gonna wear it out,with exception of bushings.if the arms are tagged epic 27 on them then they are legal,doen't matter if 2 or 3 rotor design.stock motors!as far not being legal to change arms in modified,WHAT HAVE YOU BEEN SMOKIN anyway?modifed is what it means MODIFIED!climb off your cross somebody may need the wood.have good new year,MIKE HAMRICK.
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Old 12-31-2001, 01:38 PM   #335
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plus changing the arm in the motor is illegal at most tracks, u can change the power band of a motor by the size of the com more com more torgue less com more r's. i race at a parking lot oval track and we run in the are of a 6.5-6.25 fdr motors dont last long with us, we tend to cut the comm way down n squezze up to 33,000 rpms out of gm3's and with the track being mostly wide open we do smoke motors but its all in the race to the finish.
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Old 12-31-2001, 01:54 PM   #336
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olewarrior- Here is a copy directly from the the ROAR rule book on stock motors:

5-43: The armature, motor can, and endbell of a rebuildable stock motor must all be from the same motor manufacturer and can contain only components from the same model. No hybrid
motors or mixing of parts from different models will be permitted.

Here is the section on mod motors:

5-45: The base motor may be modified by re-winding, epoxying, and balancing; and adding cooling holes, ball bearings, and custom brush systems. The original armature, commutator,
magnets, motor can, and endbell must be used, but may be modified. No mixing of parts from different base motors is allowed.

That is how the rules read, I don't think there is much room for interpretation. You know were you can put your cross! Have a good new year.

Chad
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Old 12-31-2001, 03:01 PM   #337
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well since you preach rules making then why is it that certain mfg. have different configurations.who knows what is what.since your preaching roar rules.team racers don't race what you buy.get a life.as far as what i can do with the cross send me your addres i'll be glad to pay for your plane so you can come and show me what i can don with the cross bucko!if ya got enough rule books to bail ya out of that problem too.local racing programs support the hobby not Roar or any other rules makin organization.don't forget that address palee,i look forward to it.have a____ day.
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Old 12-31-2001, 03:37 PM   #338
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hey ole lay off the west virginian moonshine your right team drivers do race with products unavailable to the general public but they also race against other team drivers with the same advantage however if u go to say a roar regionals race witha motor no ones seen b4 there not going to let u use it much less if u put a d4 arm in a aurora can but at local hobby shops yeah they might let u do it get off your pedestal
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Old 12-31-2001, 03:38 PM   #339
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Hey I was just pointing out the rules, at the club level run what ever you want to run. At any sanctioned race they will tech motors, it is usually a quick look before the race, and a closer look for the top 3 finishers. It is easy to tell the differance between the types of arms and cans, so teching is not hard. For the nats you would have to run a handout motor which makes tech that much easier. This is stock the idea is to level the field and keep costs down, there are plenty of good motors out there without making hybirds. Lets all race and have fun.

Chad
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Old 12-31-2001, 03:54 PM   #340
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Actually, team drivers race primarily with products that ARE available to the public. Yes they do testing of new products and whatnot, but who's to say they are better? Different does not mean better.

The only real advantage I can think of is getting the absolute best batteries. You won't find many (true) 1.170 or 1.180 (@30A) batteries at the retail level.

Still, if you give Pavidis, Lemieux, Cyrul or whoever your mediocre batteries and you run their true team packs, I'm guess you'll still get your ass handed to you on a silver platter. They need those extra little bits because of (what tc3screamin said) they are racing against other guys as good as they are, where every hundredth-second of a lap matters. When you, or I, or anybody else reaches that level, then we'll have access to that same stuff.

The other equipment: kits, tires, motors and so on, is the same stuff you buy at your hobby store. Sure there will be a prototype part here and there, but remember, for every prototype that works out and makes it to production, there were probably 10 others that failed. Thus when you buy something at the shop, you know you're getting the best stuff out there -- team driven and team proven (note: this may not apply to HPI. haha).

And on the rules: the ROAR motor rules are NOT there to hamper performance or to give team drivers an advantage. They are there because without those rules, teching motors would be nearly impossible. If you could legally mix cans and arms from GM3s, P2Ks, MVPs, Rage and so on, how do you tech the stuff? I would not fault a race director for not being able to spot the difference between each arm and can. You have to have rules in this area to protect the sanctity of the events, or else just say "anything goes" and be done with it. I prefer having rules.
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Old 12-31-2001, 04:01 PM   #341
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Default MOTOR RULES

I AIN'T ON NO PEDESTAL! NUFF SAID.
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Old 12-31-2001, 07:08 PM   #342
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edit-post not relivant...Changed my post ordering to regular and forgot, so I replied to one of the first posts on the thread

Last edited by Speedo; 12-31-2001 at 07:35 PM.
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Old 01-01-2002, 10:55 AM   #343
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Hey guys. Are any of you using a dyno to tune your motors? I'm curious what your opinions are on this subject. Seems like a worthwhile investment to me.
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Old 01-01-2002, 12:15 PM   #344
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I have a dyno. Yes, I would say it is a worthwhile investment if you are interested about this motor stuff. I can't say using one to tune your motors is going to make a huge difference, doing the regular things always seems to make a motor decent, but if you have several motors and want to know which one to run for the main, then yes, a dyno will tell you which is most powerful.

Hope this helps,
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Old 01-01-2002, 02:13 PM   #345
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Thanks. I figured it would be useful in finding the best spring combinations, brushes, etc. as well.
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