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Old 12-13-2001, 02:44 AM   #271
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Pro-Match has their new P2K2. It looks sweeeet.
Da Ripper2

Pro-Match

***Does anyone know a website where I can buy Lightspeeds newest laydown silver stock brush or any 1-5 run stock motor brush? I'm looking for the most aggresive brush out there.(full faced)***

Last edited by webspinner; 12-13-2001 at 02:48 AM.
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Old 12-13-2001, 02:48 AM   #272
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Proud,

Check out Putnam brushes at RC4Less.com. They come in different compounds from medium to high silver content and you can get them in bulk from the site.
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Old 12-13-2001, 02:57 AM   #273
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Stika525-$5.50 a set. That'll work. Usually the more silver content the more they cost. I've been paying $4.50 for the lightspeeds but he quit ordering them. Them propulsion green shunts look mean as hell. Thanks for the help.

**TIP**- I've found out that stock motors will turn more RPM's with teflon motor shims installed. Keep the steel or brass ones but place one or two .005" in on each side-you'll be amazed.***

Thanks Stika525!
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Old 12-13-2001, 03:02 AM   #274
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yeah, I found that out by trial and error. Or better yet, accident. Drop a shim at the track ounce and all i had was the teflon ones. Dropped them in and kept my mouth shut, except for the s*** eating grin of course.
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Old 12-13-2001, 12:01 PM   #275
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I'm thiniking of trying an Orion motor. Do they have anything comparable to a GM3. I run 12th scale and need top end.

Thanks
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Old 12-13-2001, 05:12 PM   #276
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The orion motor is all torque, so I don't think it's for you if you want the GM3 powerband.

You really don't have to worry at all about RPM. RPM isn't what makes a motor fast, unless you run oval, even then it isn't the most important.

Brushes, I find the 766 to work very well. It is a very soft brush, but for some reason produces the most torque. Very easy on the comm. I find I get about 2-4Nmm more torque with it than the 767 or 4499.

Last edited by Speedo; 12-13-2001 at 05:16 PM.
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Old 12-13-2001, 06:16 PM   #277
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Default Problem with pinion

Hi guys,

I posted and have this problem for 2 months now or maybe 3 but still I havent solve it yet. I have an RS4 Sport and the grudge (is that what is called?) screw on the pinion on the motor got stuck. I cant turn it with my hex driver because the hole where you put your hex driver is slightly larger so the hex driver just turns without turning the screw itself. I tried putting paper on the driver so it will be larger but it wont work.

Now someone suggest a pinion puller but when I saw the pic of the pinion puller I wonder how can this device get the screw out. How does the pinion puller work? Now I can change my motor because on RS4 sport you need to take the pinion off before you can take th emotor out.

Any ideas?

Thanks.
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Old 12-13-2001, 06:37 PM   #278
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zxt...

couple of suggestions....some messy but may work....

#1. Solder your allen wrench into the grub (set) screw...I have used this trick to get a few stuck screws out...

#2. Get something called wood filler, put your allen wrench into the screw and pack it in, let it dry, should let you get it started....

Try those and see how you make out...

HTH,
John
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Old 12-13-2001, 06:38 PM   #279
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Don't know much about pinion pullers - never seen one, although i have heard of them.

What i can tell you is that if you try to use brute force, for example sliding some long-nose pliers on the visobel bit off the shaft, and wiggling about to try and levr the pinion off, can damage the can, because of the unnatural force you're puting on it - worth a try, but if it's not coming off relatively easily, give up.

Possible suggestion, getting a junior hacksaw and physically cutting through the pinion - slow, but it'll do the job.
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Old 12-13-2001, 07:02 PM   #280
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I think i'll try the soldering tip...

I dont have wood filler here tho I'll ask around. Do u think ACE has it?

Sosidge: I tried the brute force already but still no luck...I dont have a small hacksaw either. I'll try to save the motor and pinion as much as possible tho...thanks for your tip anyways.
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Old 12-13-2001, 07:13 PM   #281
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Bolink makes the pinion puller. I gave you the part number when you asked last time. I will see if i can find it again.

It works by the 2 "hooks" grabbing the pinion while pushing back on the motor.


If it was me ( i had a Pro2.. So i'm familiar with the layout ) I would remove the spur gear, and then use the pinion puller, or worse comes to worse, take the car apart and remove the whole motor plate.

-Troy
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Old 12-13-2001, 07:18 PM   #282
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This is the Take Off's version of a pinion puller part #TO330

Bolink also makes one... But i can't find the part number.
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Old 12-13-2001, 10:40 PM   #283
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Default TSR6

Thanks...but its hard to find a pinion puller here, I found one tho but I only talk to the owner of the shop thru phone and his shop is not that far away but it will take me some 4 or 5 rides by public transportation.

The solder lead wont stick to the screw nor to the hex driver...what I did was get a tool like a large screw driver and force it out by force. Hey after a few tries it started to move. Now I saved both my pinion and my motor.

Thanks for the replies anyways.
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Old 12-14-2001, 01:35 AM   #284
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Default Re: Problem with pinion

Quote:
Originally posted by zxt
Hi guys,

I posted and have this problem for 2 months now or maybe 3 but still I havent solve it yet. I have an RS4 Sport and the grudge (is that what is called?) screw on the pinion on the motor got stuck. I cant turn it with my hex driver because the hole where you put your hex driver is slightly larger so the hex driver just turns without turning the screw itself. I tried putting paper on the driver so it will be larger but it wont work.

Now someone suggest a pinion puller but when I saw the pic of the pinion puller I wonder how can this device get the screw out. How does the pinion puller work? Now I can change my motor because on RS4 sport you need to take the pinion off before you can take th emotor out.

Any ideas?

Thanks.
zxt- that small screw is called a set screw. One tool no racer can live without- a Dremel. Wood filler, you can try all day but wood filler isn't gonna get that set screw out. Solder, I doubt that'll work either. You best bet is to either buy the pinion puller or buy a dremel. I was thinking maybe a coping saw would do the trick but if the pinion is steel, the coping saw might not work. If you can't afford a dremel, sears and department stores sell their versions of the dremel.(craftsman, black&decker,etc..) Good luck.
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Old 12-14-2001, 07:17 AM   #285
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Default Problem solved already

proudwinner: I did it by my description above, I used brute force with some tool, forcing it out. I'm thinking of getting black decker tho, but I'm gonna get a new charger first.

Thanks anyway.
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