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Old 01-22-2007, 02:09 PM   #2626
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"Try cutting the trailing edge of the brush off a bit " Anybody got any pic's of this or any other cuts that can be done to brushes?
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Old 01-22-2007, 02:45 PM   #2627
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Quote:
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"Try cutting the trailing edge of the brush off a bit " Anybody got any pic's of this or any other cuts that can be done to brushes?
a full face brush fully seated will give you the most power
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Old 01-22-2007, 05:02 PM   #2628
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Hi all,

Can someone/anyone please explain the difference of a torque motor and a RPM motor in terms of usage. Like for example, if the track is long and with smooth flowing corners, which motor is the better choice to use. What about a technical track with a 80' straight.

In a recent race meet, I was using a RPM based motor and I just couldn't get more than 17 laps. The rest of the guys were doing 19-22laps. I was gearing it from 5.7 to 5.5. Later I found out that the majority were running Torque based motors and gearing it as low as 5.0.

I've gone thru all the stock motor threads in this forum and getting confused.
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Old 01-22-2007, 05:56 PM   #2629
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bam167
"Try cutting the trailing edge of the brush off a bit " Anybody got any pic's of this or any other cuts that can be done to brushes?

Hey Bambino,

Your car looked fast on Sunday, dude! You should ask your partner, Peter about it. That guy is tuning motors like a beast recently. You saw his car blazing this weekend right? Faster than a mo-fo...left people like...
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Old 01-22-2007, 05:56 PM   #2630
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Quote:
Originally Posted by need4speed
Hi all,

Can someone/anyone please explain the difference of a torque motor and a RPM motor in terms of usage. Like for example, if the track is long and with smooth flowing corners, which motor is the better choice to use. What about a technical track with a 80' straight.

In a recent race meet, I was using a RPM based motor and I just couldn't get more than 17 laps. The rest of the guys were doing 19-22laps. I was gearing it from 5.7 to 5.5. Later I found out that the majority were running Torque based motors and gearing it as low as 5.0.

I've gone thru all the stock motor threads in this forum and getting confused.
with stock motors is all about getting the correct gearing
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Old 01-22-2007, 06:54 PM   #2631
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Default Few questions.

With CO27s is there a set amp draw for the motor that makes it bad good or great... IE under 5 is junk 5 to 8 is ok and above 8 is great?

When is a brush done? IE when the serations are gone? or do you just re do them? Or is it when the bush is only so long?

Is there a website or can someone post some pics, kinda like a users guide for brushes in general. For more RPM cut the brush like this (with picture) type.

When, by size is the com no longe good or to small... so many cuts or is there a mesurement?

Thanks
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Old 01-22-2007, 07:11 PM   #2632
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There's bound to be lots of different opinions on this, but here's my 2 cents:


Quote:
Originally Posted by Fervidsea
With CO27s is there a set amp draw for the motor that makes it bad good or great... IE under 5 is junk 5 to 8 is ok and above 8 is great?
Not really - it's very hard to determine this from amp draw alone. You are best off buying a motor from a reputable tuner, and they should take care of this for you by discarding any duds.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fervidsea
When is a brush done? IE when the serations are gone? or do you just re do them? Or is it when the bush is only so long?
If the brush is not burned or discoloured, you can re-serrate the brush and break it in again. Most people don't go to this trouble because a lot of good performing brushes aren't that expensive.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Fervidsea
Is there a website or can someone post some pics, kinda like a users guide for brushes in general. For more RPM cut the brush like this (with picture) type.
There might be something like this out there, but it's generally a lot more complex than that. The different brush cuts are going to differ a lot depending on the motor and brush they are being used on. There are a few basics like the timed cut, but the others are pretty subjective.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fervidsea
When, by size is the com no longe good or to small... so many cuts or is there a mesurement?
0.270" is generally the minimum size on a normal sized comm. Beyond that, the copper is pretty thin and may peel back while you are cutting.
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Old 01-23-2007, 12:41 AM   #2633
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Hey, I was wondering when you talk about the amp draw on a co27 being best at 8 amps +, what volts are you runing it at?? And is that a free runing motor or is it with a fan? I have been running mostly monster motors in my pan car with 4 cells and have had very good luck with them. I just recently purchased a co27 and am having troble getting it to run like I had hoped. I am beginning to think I just have a bad motor. I have always used the 767 brushes with a 3/16 cavity and a red and green spring on my monsters but this combo defenetly dosen't work with the co27. I will try the f brush with heavyer springs and see what hapens. I will try the green spring setup and see how that works also. Any other advise on the co27 with 4 cell pan would be great. Or should I go back to what I know and sell the co27 to the next availible fool, Ha Ha.
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Last edited by MEGAVOLTS; 01-23-2007 at 12:43 AM. Reason: miss speeled word
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Old 01-23-2007, 12:52 AM   #2634
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MEGAVOLTS
Hey, I was wondering when you talk about the amp draw on a co27 being best at 8 amps +, what volts are you runing it at?? And is that a free runing motor or is it with a fan? I have been running mostly monster motors in my pan car with 4 cells and have had very good luck with them. I just recently purchased a co27 and am having troble getting it to run like I had hoped. I am beginning to think I just have a bad motor. I have always used the 767 brushes with a 3/16 cavity and a red and green spring on my monsters but this combo defenetly dosen't work with the co27. I will try the f brush with heavyer springs and see what hapens. I will try the green spring setup and see how that works also. Any other advise on the co27 with 4 cell pan would be great. Or should I go back to what I know and sell the co27 to the next availible fool, Ha Ha.
most of us on here use there parameters
2.v supply
unloaded
some shove a fan on the end , some of us don`t

me thinks the co27t can be a real pain in the arse to get consistency from ,one time it be a flyer next it be pants
in contrast i use ROARS & they work every where consistently

you be better off with light springs on pan can given there`s no weight for the motor to get going .1/12ths use green/green to really good affect
HTH
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Old 01-23-2007, 01:20 AM   #2635
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Ok, Thanks for the info. I break them in at 2 volts but test them at 5. This motor only pulls about 5 amps at 2 volts with the setup I have on it now. I am new to this 4 cell stock pan car thing. We always ran 6 cell pan where I come from. I ran 4 cell 19 for awhile and did very well with that. I have many trophys to prove it. but now the local track is going to 4 cell stock and 4 cell 13.5 brushless. I need to do well to promote battery sales but so far that's not going so well and I have to much money invested in to brushed motor equipment to go to the brushless stuff just yet. so any advise you guys have I will gladly take. Thanks, AL
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Old 01-29-2007, 09:45 PM   #2636
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Just a few questions ,,, not sure if this has been posted before on here but i couldnt find it.. But what tools can be used to cut the trailing edges off the brushes. And where can they be bought.

Also what are some other god tools for brushes
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Old 01-29-2007, 10:17 PM   #2637
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i just file it down!
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Old 01-30-2007, 01:55 AM   #2638
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Default 27t story

it is weel known over here that i am fiddling with the 27t motors for a big race meet to get going faster (to good affect)

but there was this issue on sunday re;;2 ROAR motors

both used F-lines full face /red/purple springs
using a lrp pulsar as a motor checker @2.0v ,cut out is 13.00a
3 qualifyers & 2 legged finals (5 races in total)

motor A Richmonds rogers motor
pulling 9a & singing away ,lovely TQ`s & wins both A final legs
brush`s came off looking like new run 1 set twice setting TQ twice no probs ,then ran the other set 3 times by winning the next 3

so that one was really happy with

then motor B elliot boots
F-lines full face red/red & it was pulling like 11+ a (this motor was raced at same place sunday before where it TQ`d & won the meet),elliots dad kept it for the BIG meets

he raced first race ended up second fastest but the brush`s came back with no serrations what so ever
both racers on 8.3 fdr, both are really good smooth fast racers (unlike me )
both had twister speedo`s with same program F-lines come from same 25 pairs i brought that morning
so we redo elliots motor now it`s like tripping the pulsar out by going over 13a pull
green/green on & file trailing edge now it`s pulling 11.5-12 a but as it starts to seat the brush`s the amps go mental

PS
no jamming,free as a whistle the arm is in can,properly spaced & all that stuff


couple of questions for help
1) is this a sign that the comm is getting to small (to much wrap round) ??
2) should i of used a more inferior brush to keep the amps down??
3) would slots or holes help keep the amp draw down ??




your looking for car 1 & 2 in 27t & they run in heat 7
http://www.carpetwars.co.uk/HTML%202...timeracing.htm
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Old 01-30-2007, 02:02 AM   #2639
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MR JOLLY
it is weel known over here that i am fiddling with the 27t motors for a big race meet to get going faster (to good affect)

but there was this issue on sunday re;;2 ROAR motors

both used F-lines full face /red/purple springs
using a lrp pulsar as a motor checker @2.0v ,cut out is 13.00a
3 qualifyers & 2 legged finals (5 races in total)

motor A Richmonds rogers motor
pulling 9a & singing away ,lovely TQ`s & wins both A final legs
brush`s came off looking like new run 1 set twice setting TQ twice no probs ,then ran the other set 3 times by winning the next 3

so that one was really happy with

then motor B elliot boots
F-lines full face red/red & it was pulling like 11+ a (this motor was raced at same place sunday before where it TQ`d & won the meet),elliots dad kept it for the BIG meets

he raced first race ended up second fastest but the brush`s came back with no serrations what so ever
both racers on 8.3 fdr, both are really good smooth fast racers (unlike me )
both had twister speedo`s with same program F-lines come from same 25 pairs i brought that morning
so we redo elliots motor now it`s like tripping the pulsar out by going over 13a pull
green/green on & file trailing edge now it`s pulling 11.5-12 a but as it starts to seat the brush`s the amps go mental

PS
no jamming,free as a whistle the arm is in can,properly spaced & all that stuff


couple of questions for help
1) is this a sign that the comm is getting to small (to much wrap round) ??
2) should i of used a more inferior brush to keep the amps down??
3) would slots or holes help keep the amp draw down ??




your looking for car 1 & 2 in 27t & they run in heat 7
http://www.carpetwars.co.uk/HTML%202...timeracing.htm
have you checked the speedo settings on both cars?
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Old 01-30-2007, 02:15 AM   #2640
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yes i checked & dubled checked with rich & elliot (knowing full well these speedo`s can burn things prematurly)
this was backed up by Nathan parker (they had he`s program)
both drivers had the same settings
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