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Old 12-26-2006, 11:40 PM   #2506
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may i know what is the different of the regular stock motor compare to pro tuned motor? is that pro version come with dyno tuned, different brush, and different brush spring? what else i miss out? thanks
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Old 12-27-2006, 10:16 PM   #2507
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Go to the web sites for those who make and/or tune these motors and you will see a general list of what they do. I think a pro tuned motor is worth it unless you enjoy tuning your own. Even then, based on all the regular and pro tuned motors I've bought, in the future I'll buy pro-tuned from either a boutique tuner or local pro.
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Old 12-27-2006, 10:49 PM   #2508
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among other things, pro-tuned stock motors would have the following altered over stock ones:
- brushes
- springs
- shaft polished
- comm trued
- magnets zapped?

and dynoed with results ..
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Old 12-28-2006, 12:04 AM   #2509
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I think the dyno run and testing is a huge value that people often underestimate - any reputable motor tuner uses that phase to weed out any "duds" that come through their process.

You can do a lot of the other tuning steps at home if you have the gear, and it's actually pretty fun, but the one thing that most guys don't have access to is dozens of motors to compare the results against.

In our shop, only motors within a pretty small tolerance actually make it into "A" grade shipping motors that we sell. I would imagine most of the other shops are the same.

You pay a bit of a premium price, but you can be relatively assured that you're getting a good motor, because the bad ones get binned long before the labels go on.
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Old 12-28-2006, 04:14 AM   #2510
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Default Dyno sheets

They are handy to read (if you know what your looking for)
no 2 stocks are the same you can get revvy monsters aswell as torquey ones so the dyno sheet comes in to it`s own
this then allows you to know how to gear the motor right straight off

Plus buyers like the Numbers game` aswell
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Old 12-28-2006, 07:18 AM   #2511
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one of the little things i do to get the best performance with my stock motors is, get it on the motor run on full wack, and whilst running apply very little presure with a hudy tool on the brush, if it revs louder and at a higher pitch they u may apply a harder spring or vice-versa, also you can relieve tension from the spring to see if it revs higher, if so you can apply a softer spring.... HTH... bearing in mind this is if u want more RPM
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Old 12-28-2006, 07:31 AM   #2512
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I have seen this also trackside
A very good Mod driver decided to have a go at 19t & 27t racing
he done he`s motors like this
ran them @2.v then pull the shunt out of hood while listening to the revs , then he goes softer on spring till it starts spluttering (too lesser tension
then goes with this
nearly most of the time it was green/green & some cases he used make the green spring even softer by giving it less tesion on - side

down fall of this , you need to run it in properly before racing ,other wise it will start to arc alot & burn up quickley due to spring bounce
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Old 01-02-2007, 05:40 PM   #2513
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Anyone using the 766 and getting performance in the co27/rotm motors? I have some of the 766 brushes and in testing between them and, say the f-brush, for instance the amp draw is alot lower for the 766. I'm assuming the 766 makes good torque but not alot on top. Using a pulsar to check amp draw. Seemed that putting a small cavity in the 766 helped in amp/revs but it really does'nt seem like a killer brush so far... Just gear up or what? Anyone that gets these to work lmk what you do to them and what springs.
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Old 01-02-2007, 05:58 PM   #2514
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use F's. they are a better brush. i really didnt like how the 766's felt in those motors.

-Zac
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Old 01-02-2007, 06:07 PM   #2515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nf_ekt
Anyone using the 766 and getting performance in the co27/rotm motors? I have some of the 766 brushes and in testing between them and, say the f-brush, for instance the amp draw is alot lower for the 766. I'm assuming the 766 makes good torque but not alot on top. Using a pulsar to check amp draw. Seemed that putting a small cavity in the 766 helped in amp/revs but it really does'nt seem like a killer brush so far... Just gear up or what? Anyone that gets these to work lmk what you do to them and what springs.
767 do have a lot lower power band, They do pull less amps. For those we tend to pull 1 tooth more... They work best with purple + and Red-.. Hope this helps...
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Old 01-02-2007, 06:54 PM   #2516
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When tuning a Epic X-stock, what are we looking for rpm or torque( noload or no load), and how does this relate to amp draw for 4 cell 12th scale stock? Any help would be greatly appreciative.
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Old 01-02-2007, 09:23 PM   #2517
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nf_ekt -How long did you let the 766's break in???
Reason I ask is they take a VERRRRRYYYYYYY long time to break in.
I will literally find a bad arm and use it to JUST break in Reedy 766's.
They take 3-4 times longer to break in than a regular brush like 767's or F Brushes.
I actually water dip the bad motor that I use to break in brushes just so they will break in faster.

CarlosG-In 1/12th scale your obviously not looking for that much torque.Your not suppose to be DRAG RACING from corner to corner my friend.lol.
On the Epic X I like Reedy 766's with a Hole in them.Mike Reedy Prefered this brush in 1/12th scale racing and if you take the time to break in those brushes they are very nice.Look ABOVE...
Run 766's on both sides with a 3/32nds hole in them and break them in with green springs on both sides for about 8-10 minutes.
Do this for about 2-3 minutes 2-3 times.Run for 2-3 minutes and then stop letting the motor AND brush cool.When cool hook it back up and run it again for 2-3 minutes.When done skim the comm and run it for 1-2 minutes to help reshape them.
If the track is REALLY BIG or FLOWING you can also try a Green +,Blue -
Hope this helps guys.
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Old 01-02-2007, 10:09 PM   #2518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexRacer
nf_ekt -How long did you let the 766's break in???
Reason I ask is they take a VERRRRRYYYYYYY long time to break in.
I will literally find a bad arm and use it to JUST break in Reedy 766's.
They take 3-4 times longer to break in than a regular brush like 767's or F Brushes.
I actually water dip the bad motor that I use to break in brushes just so they will break in faster.

CarlosG-In 1/12th scale your obviously not looking for that much torque.Your not suppose to be DRAG RACING from corner to corner my friend.lol.
On the Epic X I like Reedy 766's with a Hole in them.Mike Reedy Prefered this brush in 1/12th scale racing and if you take the time to break in those brushes they are very nice.Look ABOVE...
Run 766's on both sides with a 3/32nds hole in them and break them in with green springs on both sides for about 8-10 minutes.
Do this for about 2-3 minutes 2-3 times.Run for 2-3 minutes and then stop letting the motor AND brush cool.When cool hook it back up and run it again for 2-3 minutes.When done skim the comm and run it for 1-2 minutes to help reshape them.
If the track is REALLY BIG or FLOWING you can also try a Green +,Blue -
Hope this helps guys.
After a longer break-in they started showing better results, at first they really sucked but now looking stronger. You got a spring combo for them in TC that you like? I will give them a try, and probably gear up a few Oh yeah how many runs before you think they will drop off? I always liked the F-brush simply because they kept getting better. If the 766 is similar I may use them.
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Old 01-03-2007, 07:46 AM   #2519
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You got a GOOD batch of F Brushes if they kept getting better.
I love me some F Brushes but the batches are SOO inconsistant it's hard to use this brush sometimes.
766's will get better each run.
You may even try a good F or 767 on the + and a 766 on the - if you need a lil more RPM.The 766 will literally make the OTHER brushes last longer due to the Graphite in the brush.
The Hole really does enough for me expecially with today's batteries.
I may loose a foot or so to a really HOT motor on the straight but EASILY make it up on the infield.
766's are a BAD BRUSH to alot of people because they NEVER understood how to break them in or took the time to find out.
Whats funny is even in offroad if you took the motor and broke it in for say 3 minutes.It would literally be the 3rd heat or even the MAIN before it came alive.Guys would run 1-2 heats,and pull them out because they thought they were junk.
I would take their brushes,clean them and install in my motor breaking them in for 3 minutes,skimming the comm and doing another 1-2 and have a nice brush for a few weekends.
Had 100 pair in my box but hey if your throwing something useable away HOOK ME UP.lol
Spring Combo in Sedan on that brush amazingly alot of times is just Red,Red.Red/Red is on a FAST FLOWING track.
If the track is a lil tight then try Purple +,Red -.
If the track is REALLY small and tight then try Purple,Purple.
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Old 01-03-2007, 01:04 PM   #2520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexRacer
Guys would run 1-2 heats,and pull them out because they thought they were junk.
I would take their brushes,clean them and install in my motor breaking them in for 3 minutes,skimming the comm and doing another 1-2 and have a nice brush for a few weekends.
Had 100 pair in my box but hey if your throwing something useable away HOOK ME UP.lol
You must be my long-lost brother from team scrounge . A got a bunch of 766's for cheap so I gotta make them work,, it's only club racing after all.

Oh yeah I prefer a motor that does it's thing in the infield more than the straight. Gotta have power through the turns to get that hacker off your rear-bumper
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