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Old 11-20-2001, 10:37 PM   #226
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Quote:
Originally posted by RCCadet
I like the 767's and purple springs. My FDR was a 5.51 and the motor temperature was 134 degrees so I could have gone up two more teeth. The P2k's are fast so I can only expect the P2k2 to be much faster.
RCCadet- would you mind telling us what car you are running and what pinion/spur combination? I have a hard time believing that a 5.51:1 FDR would produce a 134deg motor after a full 5 minute run, but I'm willing to learn if you know something I don't. Also, what track are you racing at? Is it really fast and sweeping? Lots of traction? Where is it located?

Thanks,
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Old 11-21-2001, 04:57 AM   #227
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Originally posted by BigDogRacing


RCCadet- would you mind telling us what car you are running and what pinion/spur combination? I have a hard time believing that a 5.51:1 FDR would produce a 134deg motor after a full 5 minute run, but I'm willing to learn if you know something I don't. Also, what track are you racing at? Is it really fast and sweeping? Lots of traction? Where is it located?

Thanks,
I post in the Greendome thread. You could have asked Pylup. Sweetpea saw the car and made a comment about my big pinion. I measured the temp with Bullseyes' temp gun immediately after the race. I raced with them this past weekend. Additionally the links in my signature are a dead give away. I finished fifth in the A-main.

But, here it goes. My car is the XRAY. I have done work to it and use my blend of lubes on the bearings, so the car is extremely free. I run no seals on the bearings. This car will glide a long ways before coming to a stop.

My diff is 34 and layshaft gear is 16. I used a 83 tooth spur and 32 pinion. The day was rather cool so I had no issues running a motor geared to the moon. I have geared as high as 5.25 in the past (fried two MVP's but not GM3's).

If I had not done the work to free up the car I would have fried the motors and I have in the past.
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Last edited by RCCadet; 11-21-2001 at 05:03 AM.
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Old 11-21-2001, 09:21 PM   #228
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badboy: maybe the bushings are already worn. if theyre still ok, try centering the armature. remove the shims and spin the armature inside the can, then pull on the pinion side of the armature and check to see how many shims youll have to put on that side. then do the same for the endbell side. there has to be a very tiny bit of play. dont totally lock out the slop or therell be friction on the bushings. if youre using 5 shims already, try slightly thicker shims.
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Old 11-21-2001, 09:25 PM   #229
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badboy: i forgot to tell you, youll have to remove the brushes and springs when you spin the armature. just diassemble the motor, then reassemble it with no shims, just the can and the endbell.
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Old 11-21-2001, 09:57 PM   #230
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Quote:
Originally posted by RCCadet


I post in the Greendome thread. You could have asked Pylup. Sweetpea saw the car and made a comment about my big pinion. I measured the temp with Bullseyes' temp gun immediately after the race. I raced with them this past weekend. Additionally the links in my signature are a dead give away. I finished fifth in the A-main.

RCCadet, my apologies bro, I wasn't paying attention. I see now why you are able to run those gears. Sounds awesome!! I'll post you in teh Greendome thread. Sorry again
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Old 11-21-2001, 09:59 PM   #231
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Originally posted by BigDogRacing


RCCadet, my apologies bro, I wasn't paying attention. I see now why you are able to run those gears. Sounds awesome!! I'll post you in teh Greendome thread. Sorry again
No worries....hope to race with you soon.
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Old 11-22-2001, 03:57 AM   #232
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I had a friend use a Raytek to check my motor after the races last weekend. I think he must have aimed it near, but not at the motor as it only got 37 deg C.
I know it must have been hotter but it passed the "Finger on it for 5 seconds" test.
6.12 FDR with an MVP in a Yoke SP.
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Old 11-25-2001, 05:36 PM   #233
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What springs will work for a MVP w/766 brushes?
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Old 11-25-2001, 06:14 PM   #234
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Originally posted by MauiBuilt Racer
What springs will work for a MVP w/766 brushes?
Use the 767's with a cavity (drilled hole). Red on POS and green on NEG.

Big Jim says to shave the brush so the face of it is a perfect square. I haven't tried it but Big Jim knows more about it!
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Old 11-26-2001, 07:42 PM   #235
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I just bought a bunch of used r/c stuff yesterday, and I got some brushes with it too. The guy I sold it from said that they are some sorta brush that will give the motor an extra 3000 rpm. He gave me two sets. They have a groove cut out right through the middle of it, probly about 1-1.5mm deep, and then on each side of that groove there are two much shallower ones. He told me what kind of brushes they are but I cant remember, anyone have any ideas? He did say that they are not made any more as that company had gone out of business, but I think the name of the company started with a D. Dexa, Deca, or something like that I think, not sure tho. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 11-27-2001, 04:55 PM   #236
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Could be MAXTEC :P
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Old 11-27-2001, 05:00 PM   #237
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Default TRINITY MOTOR LABELS

On the pro stock motors by trinity, what are good, better, and really good numbers? For the gm3, p2k(what was considered good, etc. now) and the p2k2? i plan to buy a few new motors and i want to know what kinda numbers to look for and what to stay away from.
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Old 11-27-2001, 09:34 PM   #238
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IF you're looking at the Robitronics labels, ignore the RPM numbers and go for the highest watt numbers. The watt number is the actual power output of the motor. RPM is pretty meaningless in that context.

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Old 11-27-2001, 11:09 PM   #239
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I thought watts was always the first thing to look at... or is that not always the case?

Since RPMs are nothing without torque, and vice versa.

When looking at dyno-tuned motors in the store, I would always look for the highest power output and them from there start comparing RPM/torque. We run a (relatively) smaller indoor track so I'd always look for high-power and then high-torque after that.
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Old 11-28-2001, 12:30 PM   #240
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I just picked up a P2k2 Pro and here are the numbers.

RPM 32.214
Power 133.2W
Eft 70.2%
Torq 170Nmn

What do you all think? I have not had the time to try the motor yet.
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