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Old 07-01-2006, 12:41 PM   #2356
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marvi
im currently using a CO27 in my BD and im looking for my next stock motor. how does the integy KOS compare to the CO27? will be used on a fairly large track, 16-17 sec lap times on stock, flowing turns and a single long straight. thanks in advance for any info
the KOS is ok but you will be happier with another CO27
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Old 07-01-2006, 03:08 PM   #2357
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The KOS performs similiar to a P2K2
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Old 07-02-2006, 02:06 PM   #2358
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I am looking for a couple of new motors.


Can anybody tell me what motor companies balance the arms? I know arms are rough balanced at the factory.

Thx
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Old 07-02-2006, 02:36 PM   #2359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles
I am looking for a couple of new motors.


Can anybody tell me what motor companies balance the arms? I know arms are rough balanced at the factory.

Thx
It would help if we knew what kind of racing (if any) you are doing.

Factorys may disagree with "rough balanced"; but, all the after-market tuners would fine balance, blueprint and tune.

My base stock motor is definitely the Trinity CO27.
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Old 07-02-2006, 02:47 PM   #2360
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Is`nt balancing a Stock motor consider illegal ?
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Old 07-02-2006, 06:14 PM   #2361
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No, it's only illegal if they use other methods to do it(like adding epoxy to an arm to balance it) than the usual, which is drill balancing. ALL reputable tuners I know of do further drill balancing(though they also keep an eye out for those arms that need the least amount of it, those arms may have the best potential), & that's also why on occaision you'll hear of an arm delaminating, because someone drilled a bit too far into it & damaged the laminations(so they'd fly apart under a race load)....
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Old 07-09-2006, 02:00 AM   #2362
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Hey Guys

im new to stock and just brought a brand new tuned co 27.
i noticed the armature almost has no play in the can, is this a performance tuning/shimming result?

cheers
guys
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Old 07-09-2006, 02:27 AM   #2363
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In general, you should have as close to zero play in the motor anyway. You want it centered in the magnetic field and held there. BUT, if no play, you'll have binding issues that will rob you of power. take the brushes out and put a pinion on the shaft. Oil the bushings and spin the motor a few times in your hand. then lightly push the pinion and watch/feel it carefully.....does it move up? then do this again and push on the endbell....does the pinion move down? if no to either, then I would recommend re-shimming until you have just a "tick" up and down.

good luck!
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Old 07-09-2006, 04:51 AM   #2364
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mafiaracers
In general, you should have as close to zero play in the motor anyway. You want it centered in the magnetic field and held there. BUT, if no play, you'll have binding issues that will rob you of power. take the brushes out and put a pinion on the shaft. Oil the bushings and spin the motor a few times in your hand. then lightly push the pinion and watch/feel it carefully.....does it move up? then do this again and push on the endbell....does the pinion move down? if no to either, then I would recommend re-shimming until you have just a "tick" up and down.

good luck!
thanks mafiaracers

looks like i will have to reshim it myself although i do feel a tick at a certain rotation of the armature like say at 180 degrees on one side of armature theres no play then turn it 180 degrees again and it feel a very slight hint of play (tick)

also guys how do the brush hoods move within time? seems like a solid endbell frame structure
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Old 07-09-2006, 05:58 AM   #2365
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BrainTeased
thanks mafiaracers

looks like i will have to reshim it myself although i do feel a tick at a certain rotation of the armature like say at 180 degrees on one side of armature theres no play then turn it 180 degrees again and it feel a very slight hint of play (tick)

also guys how do the brush hoods move within time? seems like a solid endbell frame structure
There is a plastic holder and a screw that holds it down, so it can come out of alignment. Also, just because the hoods themselves are perfectly aligned, does not mean that the brushes are aligned (which is what you want). This site explains is very well along with pictures: http://motortuningsecrets.com/tunestockmotor.html
The brush hood section is near the bottom.
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Old 07-09-2006, 11:12 AM   #2366
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I know this is the on-road thread but i'm not getting any answers in the off-road threads.
Anyways I ran my XXXCR this weekend with a Fantom Yokomo based stock motor. Ran a 21/78 gear. I check with my temp gauge it was around 180 deg. Is this normal? I always set the gear mesh properly and my drive train is free. I ran Putman blue and green brushes with purple springs on +/- sides. I'm gonna rebuild it, polish the shafts, align the brush hoods, and cut the comm and use fresh brushes. My question is what would be the best brush spring combo for this motor? I also have a brand new Co27 pro sitting at home. Where brushes springs would be good on this one after I use the stock 4499 brushes?
Thanx guys
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Old 07-09-2006, 11:58 AM   #2367
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hello,

180 degrees is ok. Make sure you are only running for 5-6 minutes and not the full battery or 7-8 minutes, that will only make the motor hotter. I ran yesterday and motor temps were around 130 - 175 degrees and perfectly ok.
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Old 07-09-2006, 12:13 PM   #2368
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Right, if that Yok-based is the motor I'm thinking of(may be a Reedy MVP-based one, black can?), then 180 degrees is actully pretty good. MVP' always had a BIG tendency to run hot, & from my experience with them, NOTHING could cool them down(mine frequently ran over 200 degrees, but at least it didn't seem to lose TOO much performance from the heat, still didn't like it though). But I think you'll like the Co27 better, has a similar powerband to that MVP-based, but runs a LOT cooler, & doesn't drop off at all throughout a run, & for a brush spring setup, you might try red springs & F-brushes(I like mine that way).....
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Old 07-09-2006, 02:00 PM   #2369
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I only ran 5 min. heats. Motor was fast in the buggy and power didn't drop off. Just concernd about the temp. What brushes/springs will be good. I want a combo with good power yet easy on comm.
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Old 07-09-2006, 04:31 PM   #2370
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Dasupacat1,
Run red springs and f brushes in your Co27 for 2whl.
If you need any help or parts for tuning it come see me, I'll be there friday for practice for the roar race.
later
Dayton
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