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Old 11-21-2005, 08:12 PM   #2236
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Originally Posted by Todd Putnam
DANJOY: Just remember that as soon as you apply current to the arm, it will try to shift anyway...Don't spend a ton of time trying to align something that may not matter once the arm sees current.
Run the motor in the car once or twice, then look at the wear patterns in the bushings. This will tell you which direction to shim the arm to eliminate it from applying alot of pressure to one of the bushings...

Thank Todd, always very helpfull.
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Old 11-21-2005, 08:25 PM   #2237
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Originally Posted by Todd Putnam
My suggestion for a brush/spring combo for 1/12th is our #EFB-180 Brushes with our 7.0/Green springs. We've used this combination to win the Snowbirds the past 3 years in a row as well as the Cleveland Indoor Champs and the ROAR On Road Carpet Nats this year.

Hope this helps,
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Todd or anyone else that knows... What brush are you refering to, there is no EFB-180 on the Putnam site?
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Old 11-21-2005, 08:29 PM   #2238
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Originally Posted by Mdoc
bill....you look to see if the shims on the arm are showing more wear on the endbell or the can bushing.......
What does this really matter? Doesn't the arm slam one way upon acceleration and back the other way when you let off or brake? So either way it's going to be rubbing on the bushings more one way than the other depending on the track layout. I've been told just shim it to it's center and leave very minimal play.
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Old 11-22-2005, 02:41 AM   #2239
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Has anyone used "Team Atlas" MH7-077 laydown silver brushes in there Monster Stock & have any comments.

As they were the only ones i could find in short notice for a club champ round this week.

I`m new to 27T stock so i don`t really have any idea on what brushes to use, my motor has "F" brushes atm but i couldn`t find any in time.

Cheers
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Old 11-22-2005, 06:48 AM   #2240
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There are a ton of places to get "F" brushes, as well as 767's or Putnam's,which depending on how much power you need you will be able to get with any of these brushes,I generally keep a good supply of all of these for tuning purposes.
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Old 11-22-2005, 08:19 AM   #2241
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Hi XXXcat-

"Just because the IB's have the voltage dont mean their faster on the track.. "
I know a sponsored racer like you (j/k) whom gets the best packs may not notice a difference with 1.19 or 1.20 that are now available cheap, but the new IB 3800's put a smile on my face. IN STOCK RACING VOLTAGE IS KING. Yay yay I know, someone is going to say it depends on car set up, driving skills, motor tuning etc, blah, blah, blah. Lets just assume that veryone on this board has a good setup, good driving skills, and fast motors. Axiom and kisbey monster stock motors rock. I am sure other tuners motors are great also but these are my latest test motors. I was passing 19turns like they were 540 mabuchi's. Maybe I should try their 19t next time and I'll pass 7t like they were stock motors.

If your 1.19's don't have the punch of 1.18 there somethin wrong or you have some 1.19's from matchers that don't us CE turbo matcher. I have used promatch stuff for 5years or more including their motors when Jeff made them. Promatch has always been top notch for me.


"And for gearing on a small carpet track if you go below 8.0 your going to be flat in 2 min..if you dip into the 7's you will smoke the motor..but this is just an opinion..But this is on my track and it also depends on track layout."

I guess gearing depends on driver throttle control, set up, track size, etc. I have never somke a monster stock with gearing in the fdr 7's. I wonder if some of us may be math challenged. I'm feeling a little dyslexic

Have a good one
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Old 11-22-2005, 08:21 AM   #2242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrow1
Hows the MVP rate against the monsters and p2k's assuming one knows how to gear motors properly? I like both the moster and p2k2 and am now runnng a core stock. I like the core as it came shimmed pretty decent out of the box and just feels like a quality motor. The comm on it looks a different color than I've seen but they all run good, and my monsters and p2ks seem to last forever.

I run 1/12 scale roadcoarse and 1/10 electric truck.
The MVP needs some work to match up to Monsters and P2K2s, it is a bit of a dog as is. The MVP is a torque motor - thanks in part to its strong magnets. So you'll need to gear up (more teeth on pinion gear) if you run it. BIG JIM recommended cutting the brushes down to reduce heat and increase RPMs. Take about 1/16" off both sides of each brush to make a narrower brush. Otherwise, all the same stock motor tuning tips apply. I still have an MVP that Jim did for me that rocks on short tight tracks where torque (generally) wins over RPMs.
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Old 11-22-2005, 11:35 AM   #2243
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles
Hi XXXcat-

Promatch has always been top notch for me.


"And for gearing on a small carpet track if you go below 8.0 your going to be flat in 2 min..if you dip into the 7's you will smoke the motor..but this is just an opinion..But this is on my track and it also depends on track layout."

I guess gearing depends on driver throttle control, set up, track size, etc. I have never somke a monster stock with gearing in the fdr 7's. I wonder if some of us may be math challenged. I'm feeling a little dyslexic

Have a good one
Promatch has always been top notch for me as well,In Fact this is the only batteries I sell in my shop.
I own a carpet track(small 40x80) and i can only say from my experience at my track if you run below 8.0 you will not be fast and you risk damage to your motor.I run a Pro4 and my final is 8.53 with a monster stock,I run the stock brushes(4499) red springs on both +-,Teflon washers and my motors are fast,On the batteries I look at both voltage and IR,The lower the IR the better for stock they will be.
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Old 11-22-2005, 02:36 PM   #2244
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XXXcat Is Kingsburg near Freasno?
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Old 11-23-2005, 12:27 AM   #2245
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Hey, how hot do you want a monster/epic pro in stock sedan? when im done, i can hold my hand on it forever, is it ok to run i hotter, lets say 3-5 holding you hand on your motor? Because i think im running alittle slower then the top driver at our club i run a monster, 767's, Red Green, Shimmed pretty acturatly, and a 8.82 on my Yokomo SD Black Special..

WHat will a Red + and a Red - do to my motor then?
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Old 11-23-2005, 12:33 AM   #2246
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you need to gear that thing up.

To hot for me is over 210 on the heat sensor.
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Old 11-23-2005, 05:53 AM   #2247
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red/red will give you more torque, less rpm if i understand correctly!

I would also gear up.
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Old 11-23-2005, 08:35 AM   #2248
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Well i know purple is harder then red, so what if I went Purple + and Red - or even Green -?
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Old 11-23-2005, 09:28 AM   #2249
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Shouldnt worry bout how hot your motor is you need to run it and time your laps and judge it by if it fades and at what it does fade, also pay attention to your lapt times. To be fast in Stock you are gonna get a motor Cooking!

Also just becouse someone is running same car with a same motor doesnt mean that ratio will work for you. Each motor is unique even if they are the same can, they will each have a different power band thats why you need to play with gearing. Someone elses ratio would be a good place to start but then bump it down a tooth or 2 see how it does then bump it up a tooth or 2 from the ORIGIONAL ratio and see how it does going up, then play around from there depending on which way the motor felt better.

You could easily see a 3-6 tooth difference between 2 drivers with the same car and motor.

Just my $.02
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Old 11-23-2005, 11:31 AM   #2250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles
XXXcat Is Kingsburg near Fresno?
Yes it is,We are located 20 miles south of Fresno and 20 miles north of Visalia.
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