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Old 11-16-2005, 08:16 AM   #2191
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Another tip, that I haven't tried yet, is to use standard 767's and/cut off the leading AND trailing edges.
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Old 11-16-2005, 08:23 AM   #2192
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Yea that's another thought,I only use 767's or Green putnams in my monsters.
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Old 11-16-2005, 02:43 PM   #2193
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Default Armature Balancers???

Need help on the above. Has anyone tried using a Top Flight Magnetic Balancer for stock armatures? Can it be made to work? Any suggestion on what the cheapest balancer that can do the job? I seen a few but they are so expensive.
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Old 11-16-2005, 04:18 PM   #2194
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NO! a prop balancer won't balance a motor arm properly,I would have all my motors balanced by Eddie O @ Brood Racing he has the right type balancer and and can get the job done in a proffesional manner,he is only one of a few motor guru's that does this to his motors and it obviously makes a diffrence.
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Old 11-16-2005, 09:43 PM   #2195
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What about using the radio to dummy down the motor, back off on the EPA from 125% to 100% and back off the EXP to start with a neg number for a smoother tranfer into power?
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Old 11-17-2005, 09:29 PM   #2196
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danjoy: A prop balancer will not balance an arm properly. We use a Quillen balancer to balance our armatures...
The arms need to spin to acurately balance them, similar to the way the tires on your automobile are balanced.
Hope this helps...
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Old 11-17-2005, 11:33 PM   #2197
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You might as well roll them on the counter to find the heavy side.....thats about how effective a prop balancer is.

It's a pretty pricey piece of equipment....one that very few motor companies even have....

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Old 11-18-2005, 12:32 AM   #2198
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First I want to say that I have many years of experience balancing engines (race car) with a electronic engine balancer and I agree with Eddie that this type of balancer is the only way to get a truly accurate balance job.... BUT... I was at the Classic in Cleveland last month and I spent some time with the guy from Niftech talking and watching him static balance armatures. I gave him a monster arm and we put it on his (prop style) balancer... he has some nice adapters to hold the arm... anyway after he balanced the arm there was no noticeable heavy spot anymore . I assembled the motor and ran it while holding it and it was much smoother than before he worked on it. Was it perfectly balanced... I doubt it... was it better than stock... yes it was much smoother. Of course his method takes some skill and experience since the machine wont tell you were to drill or how much material to remove. So I guess with the right adapters and a prop style magnetic balancer and some time you can make you motor smoother than it came from Epic.
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Old 11-18-2005, 12:47 AM   #2199
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I just dont get it, How are all these guys in stock soooooo fast..... I have a same motor... geared right, and I have a high end car.... still slower than all the DUDES,.....=( any advice?
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Old 11-18-2005, 01:11 AM   #2200
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You need to maintain the speed during turns. Thats all it is. Sounds very easy but is not.
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Old 11-18-2005, 01:33 AM   #2201
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I have one of the niftech balancers.....some where....

I have seen the niftech guy do it.....I dunno. I think he just gets lucky....I tried 30 arms on it.....I got 6 balanced OK....the rest were not even close....

The issue you still have, is that even though you have FOUND the heavy side....you still don't know which half of it to drill on....

Not only that, you have no idea how much yer actually supposed to take off to get the balance correct.....which is another key element to the way our balancers work...

The odds are not bad for him though.....he has a 50/50 chance of drilling in the right spot...then just a little at a time....then pray it works!

Of course, thats assuming the heavy side is the same on both the halves....which is often not the case....


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Old 11-18-2005, 01:46 AM   #2202
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Hey Eddie,

Do you do any work on the bushings of the motors? or is it to time consuming to do it on a mass scale?

If you do bushing work are you popping them out? I have heard that it is hard to get the bushings back into place once they are popped out.

Thanks,

Nick
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Old 11-18-2005, 06:09 AM   #2203
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Stock motor and roll out questions

I have a mix between Team scream, MVP, Epic and a monster. I have been racing with a TA04 pro and I hold 3rd for the season from 15 cars. At the moment the car has a 120/42 spur/pinion Final drive 6.49 and a roll out of 31.42.My questions are....
Whats a good rollout for stock motors?
What temp should a stock motor be after a 6 min race?
Whats the diffence between a torque stock motor and a RPM stock motor?
What type of gearing I should start to play with for a torque motor?


I have 2 x pro tuned team scream's (monster based), Epic binary2 outlaw, MVP, Monster Stock Pro.

Thanks
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Old 11-18-2005, 08:27 AM   #2204
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John, I was always told to keep my bushings in the can and endbell, pulling them in and out screws with alignment, its better to just get a reamer and slide it through the motor to make sure the bushing holes are true.
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Old 11-18-2005, 12:18 PM   #2205
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I remove & polish the inside face of both bushings and also take a 1/8th reamer to the shaft hole of both bushings,this insures the trueness of both bushings,take a look at motortuningsecrets.com for a detailed method of how to take care of your bushings and motors.
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