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Old 08-03-2005, 04:03 PM   #2116
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E-brushes, or reedy 767's. purple springs, break it in for 300 seconds at 2 volts, on a RPM stand with a fan. I usualy change brushes after every 4 or 5 runs and skim the comm whenever I change brushes.
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Old 08-03-2005, 07:55 PM   #2117
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I agree with Jimbo for the most part; but, I don't need torque for most carpet tracks because the 1/12th car carries corner speed so well. Usually go for RPM with red/green springs.
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Old 08-04-2005, 06:07 AM   #2118
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Default Stock motor on carpet Vs Ashphalt

Do any of you look different motors if running on a small tight carpet track, Vs a LARGE open asphalt track?
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Old 08-04-2005, 06:19 AM   #2119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Guys I am not sure what do do at this point with my stock motor. I bought it new and "pro-tuned" from a reliable tuner nearby (Go Lightspeed!!) and have been running it in my TC4 for about 20-30 runs. Some 5 min racing, some 5 min practice runs, but all in the tc4. I have pulled it apart after every four runs, cleaned the com using q-tips and motor cleaner and then polished/cleaned it with the green comm stick. I have never gotten motor spray on the brushes, and they're not burnt. I have been gearing on the conservative side and my motor can temps around 170 after a five min run. I have the dual fan set-up that blows on the end bell so the endbell comes off the track around 135. I also run a motor spray saturated q-tip through the brush hoods after every four runs and lube the bushings (royal oil) after those four runs, sometimes two. I figured the comm was badly due for a cut, so I took some pre and post diameters from the comm. I was getting a very consistant .294" and .293" all the way around, and top to bottom. So I cut it, just shaving as little as I could to get it all the same color. I checked again and got .293" everywhere. OK, enought nerd data. I have the EXACT same set of brushes in this motor it came with. The serrations are gone, but they're not short by any means. What do I do now?

A. Run the motor at low volts for 300 secs to seat the old brushes to the new comm surface

B. Suck it up and spend money on new brushes and seat them at low volts for 300 sec.

C. Something else

Consider that the race immediately preceding teh comm cut I ran my best and fastest racve ever and won the rookie stock a-main in my club race. I mention this to highlight that I am looking for an economical way to keep it in at least as good condition as it was right before I cut teh comm. I mean, c'mon; I race rookie. I dont need a screamer, just a reliable motor. I'd rather spend the $$ on practice fees to get better

WHew!! What a book!!

Thanks for any and all comments


Andrew Doherty
Get yourself a brush serrator (Eagle/Integy make a reasonable one for a good price) re-serrate the brushes providing there in good condition and run the motor in however you think works.

my 0.02
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Old 08-04-2005, 06:27 AM   #2120
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Got a question and mind you I race oval not TC but it should still apply.

I along with most of you from reading here agree that if you want more rip out of the turns to run Purple springs, and run Green spring for more RPM.
But one of the best motor builders I have ever seen said its exactly opposite, he in oval racing always ran purple springs on real long tracks for more RPM, and green springs on short track to get torque. His son pretty much holds all our track records. He never told me his theory behind it but their on-track performance was undeniable.

On my robitronics dyno I could never prove it either way. If I went from purple to red to green springs, I always had my highest numbers watts, torque and rpm with Green springs on a Monster motor. So I always just ran green springs. Plus I think with lighter springs you can finish stronger cause the motor is not as bound up with the hard tension.
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Old 08-04-2005, 06:48 AM   #2121
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Pro4-Thats what I was thinking. I even have a buddy with a serrator, so I can try this theory. I will have to keep track of the brush length and see how they wear. I dont think my brushes wear very fast either.
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Old 08-04-2005, 11:52 AM   #2122
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Hey,

I was also wondering about springs.

I'm using 767's and I'm running stock, carpet/foam on a SHORT-MEDIUM twisty track and am using purple springs. No complaints, but I saw some people running other color springs or combos: red/green or whatever.

Considering the track, purple springs should be best, right? More torque, not so much RPM needed, right? Or should I try some different springs?
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Old 08-04-2005, 12:00 PM   #2123
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It's always worth trying different spring combos.....every motor can be different....even the same brand motors can have a fairly different powerband....sometimes 3 to 4 pinion gears different.......give (red+, red-) a try and also (purple +, red-)......going to heavier springs like double purple sometimes drags a stock motor down too much(and sometimes it's ok)......keep in mind that even most trinity "mod" motors use double purple springs
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Old 08-04-2005, 04:39 PM   #2124
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I just recently "burned up" a Monster Stock Pro. One cluster of wires out of the three on the armature turned a blue-purple color.

I was wondering if I rebuilt the motor (cleaning, comm cutting, and brush replacement) how it would run. The motor started smoking and "burned up." Is this motor still usable?
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Old 08-04-2005, 04:46 PM   #2125
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I remember burning up a Reedy MVP a long time ago.

The armature was bluish-purpleish.

I unassembled it and cleaned it thoroughly and then it worked OK, wasn't one of my race motors anymore though, just for practice.

Just give it a try; it depends exactly how much of it is burned, is it just on the surface of does it look like all the wire from the armature is burned up?
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Old 08-04-2005, 05:10 PM   #2126
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Just the surface is burned.
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Old 08-04-2005, 05:50 PM   #2127
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For what it's worth, here's what we've used to win virtually every major Stock On Road and Oval race for the past year:

#EFB-180: Green shunt brush +, Blue shunt brush - with trailing edges removed

-Once hoods are properly aligned, Break in @ 2 volts for 400 seconds with a fan on the pinion shaft. Use 3-4 drops of Zubak drops in each hood during break in. After break in is complete, leave brushes and springs in tact and flush out comm and endbell with motor spray / electrical cleaner. (Never use Brake Cleaner or Carb and Choke Cleaner.) Let air dry, motor is ready to race.

Springs:
1/12: Putnam Green 7.0 oz.
1/10: Putnam Red 7.5 oz.
If more bottom end is needed, replace the red spring with a Putnam Purple spring (9.0 oz.) on the positive pole. If still more is needed, or your motor fades late in the run due to heat/brush glaze, replace the red spring on the negative pole with a purple as well.

Hope this helps,
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Old 08-04-2005, 05:54 PM   #2128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd Putnam
For what it's worth, here's what we've used to win virtually every major Stock On Road and Oval race for the past year:

#EFB-180: Green shunt brush +, Blue shunt brush - with trailing edges removed

-Once hoods are properly aligned, Break in @ 2 volts for 400 seconds with a fan on the pinion shaft. Use 3-4 drops of Zubak drops in each hood during break in. After break in is complete, leave brushes and springs in tact and flush out comm and endbell with motor spray / electrical cleaner. (Never use Brake Cleaner or Carb and Choke Cleaner.) Let air dry, motor is ready to race.

Springs:
1/12: Putnam Green 7.0 oz.
1/10: Putnam Red 7.5 oz.
If more bottom end is needed, replace the red spring with a Putnam Purple spring (9.0 oz.) on the positive pole. If still more is needed, or your motor fades late in the run due to heat/brush glaze, replace the red spring on the negative pole with a purple as well.

Hope this helps,
Todd Putnam
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what motor?
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Old 08-04-2005, 06:00 PM   #2129
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Thanks for the tips Todd, but..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd Putnam
flush out comm and endbell with motor spray / electrical cleaner. (Never use Brake Cleaner or Carb and Choke Cleaner.) Let air dry, motor is ready to race.
Isnt Motor Spray the same thing as Brake cleaner, IE the one with Hexane's as the main ingredient?
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Old 08-04-2005, 06:53 PM   #2130
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Pro4: Either the Monster-based or the ROAR/Binary-based stocks. Works for Chameleon 2 based 19 turns as well.

vortex: no, they are actually different.


Regards,
Todd Putnam
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