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Old 07-17-2005, 08:35 AM   #2101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackKat
OD, I hear your a great racer and very smart: YOU MIND SHOWING IT?

I can "kill" a stock motor in about a month of practice days (once-twice a week, 8 or so packs a day....all I do lately because the summer "death" of carpet) pull it out of the package, run it without any attention until it quits or slows down dramatically. I've run a stock motor with bearings on practice days for a month, pulled it apart and the comm looked great and it ran real good

I encourage anyone who bashes or who's track doesn't care (ask the race director first) to pop some bearings in to their stock motor. It really helps against comm wear. I did this for my practice motor when I raced Expert Stock (trying to break into 19t now)

To get them: Just ask for motor bearings at the LHS or search online (Tower, Stormer, eBay)
I doubt it makes any difference at all, if anything the motor would spool up a tiny bit quicker due to less resistance i think, but its so tiny it isnt noticable. I have bearings in half my stocks (legal for a series over here) and i cant tell the difference between the ones that do and ones that dont. But im cutting the comm every run, i would think you could do a meeting with one set of brushes and then cut it when you get home. But when i go racing i want to be as fast as i can, so if i have the time and equipment which i do, why shouldnt i cut every run, nothing to be lost by doing it, and performance gains!
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Old 07-18-2005, 12:48 AM   #2102
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Here is some info i found on the Kawada GT 27t Motor
27 turn classes where popularity is spreading with race/lace of the recent every place.
It is appearance of the GT stock motor which is optimum to the 27 turn classes.
It selects 3 millimeter core 3 hole type which has established reputation with this corporation M11238 VT stock motor which is proud of preponderant popularity in 23 turn classes in the rotor!
Being to be the cooling fan attachment, it is superior even in heat dissipation characteristic.
Of course the DSE connector of brush stand one somatotype and electrification characteristic * maintenance characteristic are preeminent with standard equipment.
Race/lace and the real ワンメイクスレース which the inside of the companion just a little does are optimum as a motor for practice of course.

* Rotor
The 3mm core 3 hole (the cooling fan you attach)
* Brush
High power brush (M1B-01)
Stand rise
* Motor can
Chrome plating
DSE connector standard equipment (only female)
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Old 07-18-2005, 01:11 AM   #2103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vi3tishduy
Here is some info i found on the Kawada GT 27t Motor
27 turn classes where popularity is spreading with race/lace of the recent every place.
It is appearance of the GT stock motor which is optimum to the 27 turn classes.
It selects 3 millimeter core 3 hole type which has established reputation with this corporation M11238 VT stock motor which is proud of preponderant popularity in 23 turn classes in the rotor!
Being to be the cooling fan attachment, it is superior even in heat dissipation characteristic.
Of course the DSE connector of brush stand one somatotype and electrification characteristic * maintenance characteristic are preeminent with standard equipment.
Race/lace and the real ワンメイクスレース which the inside of the companion just a little does are optimum as a motor for practice of course.

* Rotor
The 3mm core 3 hole (the cooling fan you attach)
* Brush
High power brush (M1B-01)
Stand rise
* Motor can
Chrome plating
DSE connector standard equipment (only female)
This motor can't hold a stick to any of the 27T Stocks that are in the states... it just doesn"t have the RPM... it needs to be geared to the moon to get anything out of it..... But it does have quite a bit of torque
-Dave
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Old 07-18-2005, 04:54 AM   #2104
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ok i just raced a titles and got my ass handed to me...... i know my motor tuning was the problem....

will getting this stuff help aid my situation?

:a new brca monstor pro stock motor
:an assortment of motor springs [ive always used the std springs]
:a hood alighnment tool
:a comm stick
:some spare bushings[thats if this will help]
:a larger assortment of brushes
:cutting the comm after every run [i useually do it after ever 8 runs]

?
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Old 07-18-2005, 08:01 AM   #2105
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Pink,

Those are some of the standard items I have in my box.

Using Reedy 767 brushes, I cut my comms at about 4 runs AND replace the brushes too. In most cases, I do the cutting of the comm to before the last qualifier of the race. Otherwise, depending on the importance of the race, I may do a light cut on the comm whenever it appears to need it.
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Old 07-18-2005, 08:31 AM   #2106
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Default HPI stock motor

Hi

Does anyone tried the HPI R2 stock motors?
Which one to recommend?
SS, SL, TS or TL?
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Old 08-01-2005, 09:02 PM   #2107
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Guys I am not sure what do do at this point with my stock motor. I bought it new and "pro-tuned" from a reliable tuner nearby (Go Lightspeed!!) and have been running it in my TC4 for about 20-30 runs. Some 5 min racing, some 5 min practice runs, but all in the tc4. I have pulled it apart after every four runs, cleaned the com using q-tips and motor cleaner and then polished/cleaned it with the green comm stick. I have never gotten motor spray on the brushes, and they're not burnt. I have been gearing on the conservative side and my motor can temps around 170 after a five min run. I have the dual fan set-up that blows on the end bell so the endbell comes off the track around 135. I also run a motor spray saturated q-tip through the brush hoods after every four runs and lube the bushings (royal oil) after those four runs, sometimes two. I figured the comm was badly due for a cut, so I took some pre and post diameters from the comm. I was getting a very consistant .294" and .293" all the way around, and top to bottom. So I cut it, just shaving as little as I could to get it all the same color. I checked again and got .293" everywhere. OK, enought nerd data. I have the EXACT same set of brushes in this motor it came with. The serrations are gone, but they're not short by any means. What do I do now?

A. Run the motor at low volts for 300 secs to seat the old brushes to the new comm surface

B. Suck it up and spend money on new brushes and seat them at low volts for 300 sec.

C. Something else

Consider that the race immediately preceding teh comm cut I ran my best and fastest racve ever and won the rookie stock a-main in my club race. I mention this to highlight that I am looking for an economical way to keep it in at least as good condition as it was right before I cut teh comm. I mean, c'mon; I race rookie. I dont need a screamer, just a reliable motor. I'd rather spend the $$ on practice fees to get better

WHew!! What a book!!

Thanks for any and all comments


Andrew Doherty
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Old 08-01-2005, 09:09 PM   #2108
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When serrations are gone, so are my brushes...

To keep costs down, I buy 100 sets of 767 brushes for $100-130. Share the initial cost with 1-2 other racer buddies and reap the benefits.
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Old 08-01-2005, 10:04 PM   #2109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewdoherty
Guys I am not sure what do do at this point with my stock motor. I bought it new and "pro-tuned" from a reliable tuner nearby (Go Lightspeed!!) and have been running it in my TC4 for about 20-30 runs. Some 5 min racing, some 5 min practice runs, but all in the tc4. I have pulled it apart after every four runs, cleaned the com using q-tips and motor cleaner and then polished/cleaned it with the green comm stick. I have never gotten motor spray on the brushes, and they're not burnt. I have been gearing on the conservative side and my motor can temps around 170 after a five min run. I have the dual fan set-up that blows on the end bell so the endbell comes off the track around 135. I also run a motor spray saturated q-tip through the brush hoods after every four runs and lube the bushings (royal oil) after those four runs, sometimes two. I figured the comm was badly due for a cut, so I took some pre and post diameters from the comm. I was getting a very consistant .294" and .293" all the way around, and top to bottom. So I cut it, just shaving as little as I could to get it all the same color. I checked again and got .293" everywhere. OK, enought nerd data. I have the EXACT same set of brushes in this motor it came with. The serrations are gone, but they're not short by any means. What do I do now?

A. Run the motor at low volts for 300 secs to seat the old brushes to the new comm surface

B. Suck it up and spend money on new brushes and seat them at low volts for 300 sec.

C. Something else

Consider that the race immediately preceding teh comm cut I ran my best and fastest racve ever and won the rookie stock a-main in my club race. I mention this to highlight that I am looking for an economical way to keep it in at least as good condition as it was right before I cut teh comm. I mean, c'mon; I race rookie. I dont need a screamer, just a reliable motor. I'd rather spend the $$ on practice fees to get better

WHew!! What a book!!

Thanks for any and all comments


Andrew Doherty
reuse your brushes, just be sure that you're running them at the same direction you did before......

break the brushes in for about 1 minutes at 2 volts jsut to get them sitting well on the fresh comm......

you can use them till they get half lenght, as long as you keep the spring tension, so you have to increase spring tension as the brushes get shorter.....
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Old 08-02-2005, 12:10 AM   #2110
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Just got a tuned Monster based motor with a dyno printout that says:

Contant Volt 7.00
RPM TORQ WATT EF AMPS
25621 3.6 69 65 15.0
24399 4.8 86 68 18.0
23243 5.3 92 65 20.1
22417 6.2 103 66 22.1
21103 7.4 116 65 25.1
19908 8.4 123 63 27.8

Does anyone know what this means?
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Old 08-02-2005, 04:31 AM   #2111
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Thats a printout from a turbo dyno.....what most (including myself) consider to be the best load dyno......for a stock motor in 6 cell touring some of the most important numbers are the watt readings at the 20amp and 28amp load .....It's really impossible to compare dyno numbers for someone to tell you your readings are really great, or just average, It takes the owner of that particular dyno that your printout came from...knowing what a "track proven" really good (Monster) motor reads on his same dyno...and then comparing the two......but if I had to guess, I'd say it's not a bad motor at all....but the track is always your best indicator without owning the dyno
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Old 08-02-2005, 03:16 PM   #2112
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Default Practice stock motors for sale ;)

hey guys.. got 6 stock motors (2 epic and 4 monster pro) for sale in the for sale thread. or check out my signature. thanks!
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Old 08-03-2005, 12:05 PM   #2113
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Hey andrew, its Andrew

You dont actually mention what stock motor this Lightspeed is based on.

I assume its the monster as this is the higher rpm motor.

If you want more rpm, and are sure you can lose some torque, you can try moving to softer springs.

You say you are gearing on the conservative side, try going up one tooth.
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Old 08-03-2005, 12:30 PM   #2114
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I dont know 100% but I dont think its a monster because it doesn't have that weird green can color. I have a sneaking suspicion that its a binary because the letters BSLM are hand etched into the can. I am guessing this is lightspeeds way of identifying it as a Binary Stock Lightspeed Motor. Could be wrong. I think Im gunna keep the brushes that are in it. Ill break them to the new comm, and then if I I start posting slower times, Ill buy new brushes, cut the comm again, and break those in. Andrew you know where I am in comparison to the guys at Mikes so you know I wont notice a subtle difference in performance. PM me with your ph # if you want and Ill get you mine

Andrew
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Old 08-03-2005, 02:49 PM   #2115
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Anybody tell me the correct way to breakin a monster stock motor, The right brushers and springs to use, how frequent to change them and when to skim the com. I will be running it indoors on a carpet track on a medium sized track???????
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