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Old 01-26-2005, 02:32 PM   #1981
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I usually get 3-5 amps off a stock motor at no load....Amps at no load arn't supposed to matter anyway

Then again....I observed the motors that draw the most amps seem to have more torque on the track. But I've also had motors that do 20,000RPM/3amps (5v) do pretty good on the track

It all comes down to driving anyway
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Old 01-26-2005, 02:40 PM   #1982
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Any of you guys use any other brushes other than the associated 767?
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Old 01-26-2005, 02:44 PM   #1983
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The new big kid on the block as far as brushes go are the "F" brushes from Finishline,you can get them at most all online hobbyshops now.Don't pay more than $2.00 pr.
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Old 01-26-2005, 02:48 PM   #1984
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i will have to giv em a try
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Old 01-26-2005, 03:13 PM   #1985
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Want high amps at 3v...

put a drop of shoo goo in each bushing when assembling the motor...

Lots of things can contribute to no load amp draw.
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Old 01-26-2005, 09:08 PM   #1986
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Martyn,

I know that's what all the top motor builders say,and I agree to a point but all my best motors have a relatively high amp draw,it's how they run on the track that counts,and all my high ampers run well on the track.I used to use a combination of dyno data and amp draw to pick out motors for race day but I now know what to look for by just looking at amp draw,I can always verify my findings with the dyno if I need to,but it's getting rarer and rarer.I always tell people that the best dyno I have is my orion lap counter,and it really is.
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Old 01-26-2005, 09:11 PM   #1987
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I have heard of people using a brush called the gold brush i think, does anyone know what i'm talking about and if it is called that has anyone had any luck with em
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Old 01-26-2005, 09:29 PM   #1988
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Quote:
Originally posted by Hyper1
I know that's what all the top motor builders say,and I agree to a point but all my best motors have a relatively high amp draw,it's how they run on the track that counts,and all my high ampers run well on the track.I used to use a combination of dyno data and amp draw to pick out motors for race day but I now know what to look for by just looking at amp draw,I can always verify my findings with the dyno if I need to,but it's getting rarer and rarer.I always tell people that the best dyno I have is my orion lap counter,and it really is.
Good post.

I have noticed a bit of a pattern

0-3 amps - Lower Stock (motors that draw these amps are usually in the 19,000-21,000 RPM range)
3-5 amps - Decent Stock (usualy 21,000-22,600)
6-10 amps - NICE! (23,000-27,000)

I keep hearing about these "Finish Line" or "F" brushes. Where can I get some and what kind of comm life do I get compared to a 767 or a 4499?
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Old 01-26-2005, 09:38 PM   #1989
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Black cat go here,he's the cheapest http://members.willinet.net/bmurdock/MURDOCKRC/
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Old 01-27-2005, 02:46 AM   #1990
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Quote:
Originally posted by mcc-bri
I have heard of people using a brush called the gold brush i think, does anyone know what i'm talking about and if it is called that has anyone had any luck with em
They might be referring to Hurricane's gold brushes(don't think they're actually made of gold, it's just what they named 'em), & I'll admit I do like 'em, they've worked well in pretty much EVERY stocker I've run 'em in. But I'm more reluctant to recommend 'em for 19 turn motors, or any motors that tend to run really hot, as those brushes don't seem to like overheating(they'll go away FAST if the motor gets too hot, maybe faster than any other brush I've used). But with a little care, they're pretty stout.....
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Old 01-27-2005, 11:52 AM   #1991
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I know there not made of gold
Thanks for the info
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Old 01-27-2005, 06:35 PM   #1992
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I'm having a very strange problem with my monster stock. It makes a screeching noise when you run it, and if you spin it by hand (only if you spin it pretty hard). I checked that it was shimmed correctly a bunch of times because I thought it was one of the shims scraping against one of the bushings. After having no success with shimming it differently, I took all the shims out to make sure that that was the problem. When run very slowly it runs normally, but once you apply any more throttle the arm shoots all the way down in the can and starts scraping on the bushing pretty hard making a screeching noise. What is causing this? When I broke in the brushes I didnt have this problem, although it wasn't getting much power so it probably wouldnt have happened anyway. It started when I put the motor in my car and gave it some throttle with the wheels off the ground just because I was curious to see how fast it spooled up compared to my 19T. When I did this the bushing in the endbell started coming loose I pushed it back in but I figured that the loose bushing was the problem. Now that I recall, the pinion would stick out farther when it made the noise, so the same thing was happening. I secured the bushing by putting a tiny bit of CA in the endbell where the bottom of the bushing rests (not the sides because that could cause misalignment) and then I put the bushing on the arm and tapped the motor together.
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Old 01-27-2005, 08:11 PM   #1993
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have you oiled your bushings latly? she'll scream real good on dry bushings
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Old 01-27-2005, 08:23 PM   #1994
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In the thread I made I just said, that I only put a drop or two of light bearing oil on them before. I loaded them up with oil and now the arm doesnt shoot down and it doesnt make any noise. I'm going to pick up some real bushing oil tomorrow though. Ive never run a stock motor before, so I didnt know.
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Old 01-27-2005, 08:26 PM   #1995
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ya, get some bushing oil but don't load it up with the bushing oil, you should only need a drop on each bushing. make sure you clean and relube the bushings befor every race day
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