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Old 01-22-2005, 05:07 PM   #1951
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Quote:
Originally posted by AE Racer
Btw, would Brasso polish work well for polishing the armature shaft? I think Im going to use toothpaste on the insides of the bushings (to avoid taking too much off) and brasso to polish the sides.
If you are talking about the side of the bushing that the shims ride against,,, juast use 2000 grit sandpaper to smooth it up. You will not take away to much material if you you just make the bushing smooth. Take your time and you will notice a huge performance increase by doing this work.

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Old 01-22-2005, 05:40 PM   #1952
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I want to sand the sides of the bushings, but people are saying that it's not a good idea to remove them because it'll be hard to get them to line up perfectly when you put them back in. Although, I really doubt trinity spends a bunch of time making sure that they go in perfectly.
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Old 01-22-2005, 05:50 PM   #1953
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on their maching motors no they prolly don't, but their handwound motors everything is assembled by hand, so yes they probably do.
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Old 01-22-2005, 05:59 PM   #1954
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I dont think it really matters as much with other motors, its not as crucial for a bearing to be lined up absolutely perfect, although it might cost you a little power if its misaligned.

Did you remove the bushings on yours? How did it go?

Last edited by AE Racer; 01-22-2005 at 09:40 PM.
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Old 01-23-2005, 06:10 AM   #1955
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Quote:
Originally posted by AE Racer
I want to sand the sides of the bushings, but people are saying that it's not a good idea to remove them because it'll be hard to get them to line up perfectly when you put them back in. Although, I really doubt trinity spends a bunch of time making sure that they go in perfectly.
Dont beleive what people say! Removing and reinstalling bushings is a peice of cake. They will tap out easy, use someting round like a socket and simply tap it out. To reinstall them slide them back over the armature and put the motor back together tapping with a hammer. Once the motor is back together, tap the end of the armuture on something hard and then tap the other side. This will seat the bushings. Then you can concentrate on centering the armature in the magnet feild. Try working on an old motor or buy a cheap one but run it first so you can feel the difference this work and effort will provide. Good Luck.

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Old 01-23-2005, 07:28 AM   #1956
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i always polish my bushing in the can with an old arm. just use the can side in the dremel and put some polish on the part thats going onto the bushing, be sure to keep it well polished or it will go way over break in and send everything out of balance thus ruining what you just did.
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Old 01-25-2005, 08:50 PM   #1957
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What are the best brushes to use in a monster stock motor? I have been using Trinity 4499 but don't seem to have any rpm. Could someone please help.
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Old 01-25-2005, 08:59 PM   #1958
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Quote:
Originally posted by woozer71
What are the best brushes to use in a monster stock motor? I have been using Trinity 4499 but don't seem to have any rpm. Could someone please help.
Trinity 4499s have been pretty good; but, I have had better RPMs with Reedy 767s.

Just starting to experiment with 769s which are 767s with a hole drilled in the center.

Otherwise, I am having trouble finding new Monster Pro Stock Motors that are anywhere near as good (RPM-wise) as what was available 6-9 months ago.
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Old 01-25-2005, 09:15 PM   #1959
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Quote:
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
I am having trouble finding new Monster Pro Stock Motors that are anywhere near as good (RPM-wise) as what was available 6-9 months ago.
They all feel the same on the track to me.
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Old 01-25-2005, 09:20 PM   #1960
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I noticed the exact same thing Bill...Instead of the 22,000+ RPM 63 Watt Monsters of old we're now lucky to get one over 21,5 - 59W at Sheldon's

I'm having pretty good luck with Epic ROAR Stocks. They seem perfect on pavement out of the package but on carpet a purple spring and a Reedy 767 on each end can't do you any wrong
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Old 01-25-2005, 09:38 PM   #1961
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Quote:
Originally posted by BlackKat
I noticed the exact same thing Bill...Instead of the 22,000+ RPM 63 Watt Monsters of old we're now lucky to get one over 21,5 - 59W at Sheldon's

I'm having pretty good luck with Epic ROAR Stocks. They seem perfect on pavement out of the package but on carpet a purple spring and a Reedy 767 on each end can't do you any wrong
Any thoughts on spring combinations for carpet 1/12th scale stock 4 cell? Would that purple spring be too much for this class?

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Old 01-25-2005, 09:43 PM   #1962
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Quote:
Originally posted by James Nguyen
They all feel the same on the track to me.
On the contrary, they all feel different to me on the motor checker and on the track.
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Old 01-25-2005, 09:47 PM   #1963
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Out_to_Lunch,

I'd think Purple/Purple would be too stiff. 12th scale is not my area of expertise.
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Old 01-25-2005, 10:50 PM   #1964
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Default Brushes?

I was woundering what brushes produce the best results in a epic binnary running in a touring car on carpet. I have the fantom vertion of the binnary and just run the brushes that came with the motor, my motor runs best when the serations have worn off the brushes and I drill a hole in the center of the brush.
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Old 01-25-2005, 11:08 PM   #1965
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Quote:
Originally posted by JRX-S Bill
On the contrary, they all feel different to me on the motor checker and on the track.
You guys believe too much in the numbers. Numbers can all vary from dyno to dyno and calibration. I buy motors that I can't even look at the numbers and run them out of the package. I ran an out of the package motor at the last big race. It had 59 watts on the sticker. Stickers are nothing on the track. Just make sure everything is running smooth and aligned. You can give me or Aaron any stock motor you have and we will make it fast.
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