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Old 11-05-2001, 11:06 AM   #181
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a budy of mine had a couple of tao3's and his cells always ran super hot. a lot hotter than the same cells and motor in a different car. i think it's because of the whole tamiya gearbox thing. lots of resistance in those little gearboxes.
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Old 11-05-2001, 11:12 AM   #182
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What makes my Matrix Stock motor so hot? hot like you cant touch it for a second...maybe half a second yes but full second no


which matrix stock motor do you have? if it's the mvp can, it will naturally run hot. for some reason, every motor i have runs pretty warm, but i haven't noticed any adverse effects. i 'd worry less about the temperature, and focus on it's performance. if you can't last the duration of the race, then i would gear it down, but if you scrub too much top end by gearing it down, and don't get any bottom end in return, then i'd say you are running the wrong motor for that particular track or car... or the obvious, the motor might just be a pig.

the biggest thing that helped me in maximizing speed on ever changing tracks is keeping a selection of motors in my stable. if it's a short tight rack, then i roll with the p2k. wide open - gm3. the last couple of weeks @ socal raceway have had tracks that were wide open, but alot of swithbacks in the infield. i tried my p2k, but the infield was so tight that it was over geared and when i geared down, it was heating up on the straights and i really didn't gain anything in the infield. i threw in the gm3 geared it 69 x 25 (for my tc3), and it was perfect. the ratio was low enough to give me my power in the infield and the rpm was tremendous on the straights. of course, an rpm motor drives differently than a torque motor. it feels smoother and you'll have to drive smoother, use more modulation on your throttle.

so you see, you're gonna have to fiddle and see which motor is going to work best for the track you are going to race.

as for your battery heating up your motor, i doubt it.

hope this helps.
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Old 11-05-2001, 06:02 PM   #183
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Default p2k copper head pro

i have a p2k copper head pro motor and an ipc pro sport speedo.
the speedo uses bullet connectors and has a female attached to it.
The only bullet connectors i see are no solder leads.
how will i solder the speedo to the motor for a better connection than the no solder leads.
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Old 11-05-2001, 06:05 PM   #184
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also what is a lathe and a dyno
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Old 11-05-2001, 07:02 PM   #185
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A comm lathe (in the R/C sense, since there are many types of lathes) is used to "true" the commutator of a brush-using electric motor. This will keep the commutator as round as possible, allowing for maximum contact between the brushes and the comm during operation.

A dyno is a tool used to measure characteristics of a motor. Things such as RPMs, torque, amp draw and power can be measured using a dyno.

As for your motor, if it were me I would cut the connectors off of the speed control and hard-solder it to the +/- tabs on the motor (the motor has four copper-color tabs on it, two sets of +/-, one on each side. you can tell which one is positive by looking for the little "+" at the top of the endbell).

You can remove the bullet connectors, then strip the wires a bit to leave some of the copper showing. Tin the ends a bit with solder, and tin the tabs of the motor you plan on using (tinning means getting some solder on them). Then solder them up, making sure positive is going to the + tab and negative is going to the - tab, and you will be all set.
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Old 11-05-2001, 07:30 PM   #186
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I'm using Matrix 6.5 ver.

I'll try to experiment on different batts and different motor on 03.

Thanks
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Old 11-07-2001, 01:04 AM   #187
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who makes a good brush hood alignment tool? where can i buy it?
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Old 11-07-2001, 08:57 AM   #188
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I use one from Racers Edge. It is a bar that runs through the brush hoods. Sorry I don't have the part number.
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Old 11-07-2001, 09:05 AM   #189
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The Parma/PSE brush hood alignment tool is great. Only $11 at my LHS. You can get it online at www.towerhobbies.com or www.stormerhobbies.com. Visit www.parmapse.com to check it out.
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Old 11-07-2001, 04:24 PM   #190
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i'm interested in the Racer Edge brush alignment tool. Where can i order it from?
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Old 11-11-2001, 09:47 PM   #191
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Default P2K2

Anyone played around with this motor yet. I put 4499 brushes on it and red and green springs. I was not impressed. Any ideas on how to get this motor to liven up?
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Old 11-12-2001, 12:44 AM   #192
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I'm using red/green springs and Reedy 767 brushes on mine, and it's just as fast as any other stock motor on our track. I TQ'd today in the A main with it, in fact, on old brushes and without cutting the comm any time recently. I think the motor has potential... I'm just beating mine into the ground 'cause I figure a dyno-tuned version will be just around the corner.

I have mine geared at a 7.67 FDR in my Losi on an ozite carpet track. Comes off a 5-minute heat between 160-190 degrees normally (arm temp, not can).
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Old 11-12-2001, 10:11 AM   #193
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I didn't go for the non-pro because I dyno'ed one, and it wasn't very good. So I though I might as well wait When I get it, I'll check the hoods for alignment, maybe true the comm, and then chuck in on the dyno, and play around with springs. The 4499s should produce good power on it, and I wouldn't use comm drops with them. Also have a few other tricks I'll try
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Old 11-12-2001, 11:07 AM   #194
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I read somewhere that comm drops on 4499's is non-productive. I think I found that comment from BJ's black book. I like the 767's the most with a P2K.
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Old 11-12-2001, 01:36 PM   #195
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can anyone suggest a good motor set up for a p2k2 (preferably) or GM3 in a 12th scale 4 cell stock car. the track has a mix of everyhing, a few long sweepers a few 180's and a long straight.

i used a gm3 pro however it got very bogged down in the 180's.

i liked my p2k2 with reedy 766 brushes and green/blue springs (the stiffer on the pos side) however i was still behind in some area's. i am running SMH's and the new HV's.

also i heard that lightspeed motors were very fast, as fast as a fantom? also where can i get them?
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