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Old 10-01-2004, 10:22 PM   #1906
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Quote:
Originally posted by DRIVEN
I just bought a new Monster Pro and checked on the condition the brush wear and I noticed that it seems to be a bit off . I have not run this motor yet. Is it OK at this point to align the brush hoods or just wear out the original brushes and align the hoods after the brushes are worn out?
Align them, get to sleep and then come to Santa Cruz race in the morning.
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Old 10-01-2004, 10:26 PM   #1907
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HAHAHA... you gonna make it tomorrow?
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Old 10-01-2004, 10:31 PM   #1908
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I've always heard it was best not to buy the pro motors and to align the hoods and true the comm right out of the package.
At least then you know it hasnt been worked over to try and get the best dyno reading for the label.
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Old 10-01-2004, 10:54 PM   #1909
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Originally posted by onnetz
I've always heard it was best not to buy the pro motors and to align the hoods and true the comm right out of the package.
At least then you know it hasnt been worked over to try and get the best dyno reading for the label.
I make the Monster Pro motors my starting point and go from there. Other motors may be a different experience; but, I'm happy.

Yes for Santa Cruz tomorrow. Even if I lose, I can go ride the roller coaster at the boardwalk.
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Old 10-02-2004, 12:35 AM   #1910
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Could I race a modified stock motor in the 19 class? By modified I mean, MHP arm and can, V2 endbell, bearings. This wouldn't be as fast as a mod, but may keep up with 19, do you think this would be cool. I havn't done it yet...just wondering.
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Old 10-02-2004, 09:00 AM   #1911
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mafiaracers - I doubt many would care. You will be under powered though.
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Old 10-02-2004, 02:08 PM   #1912
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I'm expecting that....I think it could be fairly decent against a 19. I'm running it in a BK2 so....
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Old 10-07-2004, 10:58 PM   #1913
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Default Epic 4 magnet Outlaw Stock motors

What is the story with these motors? Since they are not Roar legal and they do not seem to be a major imporvement over Monsters and P2K2 stock motors it seems like they are often left out of the discussion. I am not that experienced or a very good judge but the two I have are my best performing motors.

two questions
What is your current opinion of these motors?
Do you have any advice on tunning them?


-----------------------------------------
also when it comes to parking lot races and 'club' races
is there a generally acepted definition of stock beyond the obvious 24degree 27 turn.
My guess is that bearings in the motor would be considered "cheating"
What about stand up brushes, P94 brushes, hand wound armatures?

it seems that no one cares much about the 4 magnet cans, the epoxy balanced or hybrid motors (the swapping of arms in cans of another model.
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Old 10-07-2004, 11:51 PM   #1914
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If your track let's you run them. It all boils down to track size & layout. And what you run. If track is big and free flowing but not tight and alot of slow turns. The motor is the King. Especially if you run 12th scale.... And I run 12th scale. As far as tuning them. This is what I do for 12th scale.I narrow the brush from both sides. Taking off a total of .010 from brush. I run Putman Blue on + and Red on - as far as brushes. Red spring on + and green on - . The key with this motor is keeping speed up in corners. If you can do this it will show you whos King in the straight. Touring car I would run a P2K2 or monster depending track layout.

Last edited by akrcracer; 10-08-2004 at 12:04 AM.
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Old 11-26-2004, 11:39 PM   #1915
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Default comparisons..

So, the track owner tells people that a good motor will pull 8 - 10 amps on his turbo gfx. I believe that this is no load. When I raced 13 years ago, no load was a moot point. Just for giggles, I pulled the motor out of my tc3 and pulled a 2v reading and got 6.5Amps. This is a good motor. It pulls hard for the full straight, and only loses people a little through the corners. I am building up my 1/12th scale and bought an 'un-tuned' stock motor from a local battery matcher. I put this motor on after breaking it in for 2 minutes, cleaned, re-shimed and oiled. This motor was pulling excess of 10.5 amps. Is this a bad thing, or do the no load numbers still indicate nothing? I am thinking its the latter, and the moral of the story is to gear the motor appropriately.

tia,
tim
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Old 11-26-2004, 11:51 PM   #1916
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Default Re: comparisons..

Quote:
Originally posted by timmay70
So, the track owner tells people that a good motor will pull 8 - 10 amps on his turbo gfx. I believe that this is no load. When I raced 13 years ago, no load was a moot point. Just for giggles, I pulled the motor out of my tc3 and pulled a 2v reading and got 6.5Amps. This is a good motor. It pulls hard for the full straight, and only loses people a little through the corners. I am building up my 1/12th scale and bought an 'un-tuned' stock motor from a local battery matcher. I put this motor on after breaking it in for 2 minutes, cleaned, re-shimed and oiled. This motor was pulling excess of 10.5 amps. Is this a bad thing, or do the no load numbers still indicate nothing? I am thinking its the latter, and the moral of the story is to gear the motor appropriately.

tia,
tim
Sorry, I don't quite understand your point.

Is the motor Monster based? What springs do you have?

What amp readings are you getting at 5V?
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Old 11-27-2004, 12:54 AM   #1917
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Default comparisons..

sorry about that.

Both are monsters. My charger will not bring the new motor up to 5v (lrp) due to high current draw, so I only ran them at 2v for the comparison. The new motor draws 10.5+ with purple springs and the amp draw goes up if I change the springs over to green. The old motor has the standard red + and green -, only pulls 5.6 amps, but is a strong runner in touring class. I am just concerned that the new motor draws too much current for 1/12th 8 minute racing.

Even on the break-in stand connected to the esc and a 4 cell pack, the motor has absolutely no free spin. I am not used to having to dial in roll, and I am afraid that I will have no choice but to have to dial in roll. I would like to not have to worry about a new style of driving while re-learning to drive 1/12 after my 13 year hiatus.

thanks.
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Old 11-27-2004, 01:04 AM   #1918
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Are the bushings possibly out of alignment on the new motor?

This could cause some drag that would explain the higher amp draw number and the lack of free spin.

With only 4-cells in 1/12th scale racing, you don't need much spring pressure on the motor.
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Old 11-27-2004, 07:11 AM   #1919
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Any idea why the amp draw would have gone up when I went from purple to green (green are a lighter spring, right?)? Would this indicate that the bushings are out of line (or some other sort of drag.. that don't make any sense, there is nothing else touching the arm...).
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Old 11-27-2004, 07:17 AM   #1920
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Is the purple spring an older one. They do lose tension and could actually be weaker than a newer green.
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