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Old 05-24-2004, 01:42 PM   #1516
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how are the Trinity 4505: Cross Cut 99 Plus? I hear that there great, any comments?
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Old 05-24-2004, 03:39 PM   #1517
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Alright....When I get home:

Change monster cans....
Calculate roll-out
Set roll-out
Pop some 767's in there...

I used to use 4505's but you see what my opinion means with stock motors...LOL Honstely couldn't tell much different from 4499s besides the fact they have a tiny bit more torque yet maybe 3/4ths the life
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Old 05-24-2004, 04:43 PM   #1518
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I don't really care for the cross cuts, The serrations go away really fast. I guess I'm just used to the regular serrations thats all. The Reedy 767, Trinity 4499, and 4505 are all good. Putnam greens are also pretty good. I haven't tried the hurricane golds yet though, but I hear they are also very good.

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Old 05-24-2004, 04:52 PM   #1519
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Has anyone tried a Epic Binary 2 stock 27 turn armature in a monster can would it be any faster also would I need to go down 2 or 3 teeth if I were to do this any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 05-24-2004, 06:26 PM   #1520
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Black Kat
I used to use 4505's but you see what my opinion means with stock motors...LOL Honstely couldn't tell much different from 4499s besides the fact they have a tiny bit more torque yet maybe 3/4ths the life
The 4505's and the putnam greens(or green+/blue-) have a little more power then the 767's but the life of the brushes imo is rediculous. I can run two weeks on a pair 767's(cut comm each week) and still have; after 8 runs, slight serrations on them. When I ran a pair of e-brushes they lasted me 5 runs and they were pitted. If your willing to cut your comm and replace your brushes every 1-2 runs then maybe putnams or 4505 would be the go. The only time I would consider this, is if I ran at a big race(clevland) where it's all or nothing.
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Old 05-24-2004, 07:44 PM   #1521
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You guys look as though you know what your doing. Im about to move up to stock after along stint in 540(bloody silver cans) can u guys give me the top three current stock motors in performance. ive heard the trinity monster is alright and the orion core is ok but is there anystand outs.
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Old 05-24-2004, 07:49 PM   #1522
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Default Matrix V10R

Guys any tuning tips on the V10R?

Whats the ideal gearing for these motors? Will it be similar gearing to the monster stocks?
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Old 05-24-2004, 07:50 PM   #1523
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Default I second that......(the post two above this)

There are also MANY other companies out there who produce some great motors. And I know, right out of the box they probably won't be the best. But still, which one is the best for

-torque
-top speed
-combination

Thanks a lot.
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Old 05-24-2004, 08:11 PM   #1524
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Quote:
Originally posted by noline

Has anyone tried a Epic Binary 2 stock 27 turn armature in a monster can would it be any faster also would I need to go down 2 or 3 teeth if I were to do this any help would be greatly appreciated.
The ROAR legal Binary Stock is just that. Binary Arm (drill balanced) in a 2 magnet can.

Guys;

For the most power in these Motors. Look for Arms with little or no balancing holes (hence epoxy balancing in the Binarys).

More than 1 tiny little balance hole is going to have a negative effect on power output.
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Old 05-24-2004, 08:59 PM   #1525
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Pops.... I never have been able to verify your finding (on balance holes) on my dyno... in fact my fastest monster has a couple of good size holes drilled in it. Of course that doesnt prove it one way or the other but I have been paying close attention to the performance of my motors verses balance holes... so far no pattern has emerged
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Old 05-24-2004, 09:33 PM   #1526
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Quote:
Originally posted by fatdoggy
You'll have to play around with gearing at the track but for a medium-small I'd start with a (23-25) and for a large track I'd start with a (26-30+) rollout. Always try a low rollout and then add teeth to the pinion one at a time. Run half a pack through practice at race pace and then pull over to check motor temp to make sure you motor isn't too hot. As long as your motor is kept in good condition it shouldn't come off screaming hot after a run(medium-hot is fine).

I run red/green springs and 767's. If you find you really have crap all torque on the medium-small track you could try dropping a red spring on the neg instead of green or a purple+/red- combo. For large tracks(flowing) rpm rules so a red/green or red/red combo may work better then the purple/red.
How hot is ok ? wots tha temp range like......I have a temp gun you see......just curious and learning .

Thnx
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Old 05-24-2004, 09:39 PM   #1527
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i know this has been asked and answered before, but here goes:

1. what springs should i use for a reedy mvp? i have a 767 brush.
2. is it true that stock motors will also benefit from the purple springs used in mod motors?
3. should i use two purple or just purple + and red -?

tanx guys...
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Old 05-24-2004, 10:10 PM   #1528
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Quote:
Originally posted by tornado
How hot is ok ? wots tha temp range like......I have a temp gun you see......just curious and learning .

Thnx
I've never gunned my monster but I'd say try and keep it below 150*f. The magnets in the monsters don't take very well to heat so the cooler you keep your motor the better it will run. As long as you have the right gearing for your track you should be ok.

For Motors such as the core stock or the Mvp normal temps after a hard run(race pace) are around 160-170*f.
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Old 05-24-2004, 10:21 PM   #1529
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Quote:
Originally posted by evaa
i know this has been asked and answered before, but here goes:

1. what springs should i use for a reedy mvp? i have a 767 brush.
2. is it true that stock motors will also benefit from the purple springs used in mod motors?
3. should i use two purple or just purple + and red -?

tanx guys...
The Mvp has so much torque that purple springs would just cause more drag, more heat and less rpm. I used the standard springs with a little tension taken off the neg when I ran it. I used 767's with a little timing cut in the brushes and the hoods aligned.

People use the purple springs on the monster to create torque since it's mostly an rpm motor(at the cost of high comm/brush wear). I had a fair bit of luck with the mvp but always had trouble gearing it. I've since moved to the monster stock and it's alot easier to deal with and faster too boot(at least on medium-large tracks). On a small track I'm sure I could use the mvp's torque to it's advantage.
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Old 05-24-2004, 10:36 PM   #1530
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Quote:
Originally posted by fatdoggy
I've never gunned my monster but I'd say try and keep it below 150*f. The magnets in the monsters don't take very well to heat so the cooler you keep your motor the better it will run. As long as you have the right gearing for your track you should be ok.

For Motors such as the core stock or the Mvp normal temps after a hard run(race pace) are around 160-170*f.
Immediately after an outdoor run in approximately 70*F temps, my Monster Pro typically ends up being 145-150*F on the bottom side and 165-170*F on the top of the can. I average this out as 155-160*F. When I have taken motor temps on multiple Monsters, they have always been about 20*F warmer on the top side of the motor than the bottom. Hmmm...Good reason for a fan on top, eh!

Not saying that these numbers are good; but, I haven't trashed any motors due to heat issues.
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