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Old 08-05-2005, 01:21 PM   #16
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i do lots of road course racing and autocrossing with my dad so i too know about countersteering and all that fun stuff, but when on the edge u tend to run into problems at one point or another no matter how good u are(it just sucks figuring that out the hard way)...
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Old 08-05-2005, 01:37 PM   #17
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I have learned the hard way. Very hard way. My advice:

Start out with a Trinity Monster Horsepower Stock Pro. Thing will last a long time. And if you got good batteries, it'll last even longer.

Everyones like oh let me get a 12T because it's fast. Yeah, sure, you're fast, until you have to make a turn and you lose traction and slide into a curb and crack a brand new chassis (my friend did this, not me.). I have also learned the hard way. I put a 10x2 in my T3, unfortunately, I neglected to switch the gearing around, went fast for a couple seconds, then all of the sudden, the battery went on fire. I thought the battery was bad, so I threw in another one, same thing. Just start out slow. You may think it's not enjoyable, I'd rather drive slower than go faster and break things all the time. Or, if you want some more speed, go for a Trinity Chameleon2 Pro. Thing is really fast for a 19T.
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Old 08-05-2005, 01:51 PM   #18
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very good advice
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Old 08-05-2005, 01:52 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Illusionist435
very good advice
...and I never give good advice!!!!!1
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Old 08-05-2005, 02:22 PM   #20
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If you dont have itchy fingers, i advise the 19 turn. i find its good to practise in a somewhat faster motor. After that the stock racing will seem much easier...

I definitly dont think is a good ideia to use a 13 turn motor for 2 reasons: a) its probably too wild if u are just starting and b) u dont have a good ESC. Low turns motors are harder on ure batteries and eat is a major concern. Im not sure why (maybe the frequency, not sure) but lower spec ESC seem to eat the engines even more. If u already blew a 15 turn that means that probably ure esc is not nice to hot engines. Theres no reason to believe tha same wont happen with a even hotter engine.

Low turn motors draw more amps and are suposed to be more powerfull. Singles are suposed to have more torque and triples and quads more rpm's and top speed. However other things are important (brushes compound, brushes, layout, springs, cans, gearing, timing) and they all play major roles on how a engines behaves.
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Old 08-05-2005, 02:28 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Itchy
If you dont have itchy fingers, i advise the 19 turn. i find its good to practise in a somewhat faster motor. After that the stock racing will seem much easier...

I definitly dont think is a good ideia to use a 13 turn motor for 2 reasons: a) its probably too wild if u are just starting and b) u dont have a good ESC. Low turns motors are harder on ure batteries and eat is a major concern. Im not sure why (maybe the frequency, not sure) but lower spec ESC seem to eat the engines even more. If u already blew a 15 turn that means that probably ure esc is not nice to hot engines. Theres no reason to believe tha same wont happen with a even hotter engine.

Low turn motors draw more amps and are suposed to be more powerfull. Singles are suposed to have more torque and triples and quads more rpm's and top speed. However other things are important (brushes compound, brushes, layout, springs, cans, gearing, timing) and they all play major roles on how a engines behaves.
Very true. The more amps, the more it drains the battery. Gearing is a factor too. Get a nice ESC (Novak GTX, GT7, Super Rooster (if you like reverse), LRP Quantum Competition 2) and you'll have no problems. As long as you gear it right, and got it all done correctly, your car will be good.
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Old 08-05-2005, 02:37 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePrfctGetaway
I have learned the hard way. Very hard way. My advice:

Start out with a Trinity Monster Horsepower Stock Pro. Thing will last a long time. And if you got good batteries, it'll last even longer.

Everyones like oh let me get a 12T because it's fast. Yeah, sure, you're fast, until you have to make a turn and you lose traction and slide into a curb and crack a brand new chassis (my friend did this, not me.). I have also learned the hard way. I put a 10x2 in my T3, unfortunately, I neglected to switch the gearing around, went fast for a couple seconds, then all of the sudden, the battery went on fire. I thought the battery was bad, so I threw in another one, same thing. Just start out slow. You may think it's not enjoyable, I'd rather drive slower than go faster and break things all the time. Or, if you want some more speed, go for a Trinity Chameleon2 Pro. Thing is really fast for a 19T.


...and he tried to blame the person who rebuilt that 10x2.... That was until he fessed up on what he did, and then got the bitchslap!!! Hahaha...

Lower turn motors will not always be faster.... They mat be fatser for the first 30 seconds but then they will be real slow as the battery dumps in 5-6 minutes....

The fastest motor out there is your good ole 27 turn stocker... Put it up against a 10 turn in a 10 minute race.... 20 minutes later on good 3300's the 27 turn will still be going and the guy will be cutting the comm on the 10 turn....
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Old 08-05-2005, 02:37 PM   #23
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Electric motors are really pretty easy. The lower the turn (i.e. 10 turn, 19 turn etc...) the faster the motor. The more winds (i.e. 10 turn single a.k.a. 10x1, 12 turn double a.k.a. 12x2) the smoother the power band. This is how many strands of wire are used. A 10x1 has one strand of, usually, larger diameter wire, wrapped around the stacks on the armature ten times. A 10x2 will have two strands of wire, usually smaller than the wire in a single, wrapped around the stack. A 10x1 is going to have more punch (torque) coming out of the corners than a 10x2 but the 10x2 will have a little more top end. Then you have to throw the motors timing into the mix Timing is the orientation of the brush to the magnets. This is changed on a modified motor by rotating the end bell. You always want the timing advanced. Never run a motor with the timing retarded. The higher you time the motor, the more top end you'll get (to a point). The lower, the more torque you'll get. Trying to get the timing and gearing right for a particular track is something that takes a lot of trial and error and will come with experience. Stock motors are even more simple. They have locked timing @ 24 and are 27x1. That's it. Modified motors require a lot more maintenance to keep them running than a stock motor. Cutting the com and changing brushes anywhere from every 5 runs to every run depending on the motor. If you're just bashing around and not racing, I'd say a brushless is probably going to be the best thing for you. You can get the Novak stock system (I think it's the 4800? ) and it's about the same speed as most stock motors out there or you can get the regular one ( I can't remember if it's the 5800 or not) and that's got a little lees than the power of a 10 turn. These require almost no maintenance and will give you plenty of speed to bash around with.

I race mod and run 7 and 8 turn motors all the time and they have tons of speed. Most newer drivers, bashers or not, wouldn't be able to handle the speed, let alone the maintenance on the motor and wear and tear on the car. The faster you go, the harder you are on the drive train, tires, suspension, etc...
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Old 08-05-2005, 02:38 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl1180ny
...and he tried to blame the person who rebuilt that 10x2.... That was until he fessed up on what he did, and then got the bitchslap!!! Hahaha...

Lower turn motors will not always be faster.... They mat be fatser for the first 30 seconds but then they will be real slow as the battery dumps in 5-6 minutes....

The fastest motor out there is your good ole 27 turn stocker... Put it up against a 10 turn in a 10 minute race.... 20 minutes later on good 3300's the 27 turn will still be going and the guy will be cutting the comm on the 10 turn....
I knew you'd come in here and say something like that! I should bitchslap you for mentioning my retarded move.
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Old 08-05-2005, 02:42 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThePrfctGetaway
I knew you'd come in here and say something like that! I should bitchslap you for mentioning my retarded move.
YOU mentioned YOUR retarded move, I just quoted it....

You should listen to your adopted father.... I yell at you less that you real one does... Hehehehehe.....
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Old 08-05-2005, 02:48 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtl1180ny
YOU mentioned YOUR retarded move, I just quoted it....

You should listen to your adopted father.... I yell at you less that you real one does... Hehehehehe.....
Yeah, yeah, yeah. It's all a crock of s***.
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Old 08-05-2005, 03:20 PM   #27
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whats a good battery to go with a 17t quad motor double wound?
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Old 08-05-2005, 03:24 PM   #28
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A 17 quad and 17 double are two different things. Either one, any 3300 should be just fine.
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Old 08-05-2005, 03:34 PM   #29
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Thanks for all the responses people. I bought a 14Turn Triple Kyosho XSpeed series motor. I have it geared up nicely with 21 tooth pinion and a 92 Spur driving on a 1.8:0 ratio on 24mm tires. Gearchart and some of the top mod racers from my club advised this setting and my motor stays cool as a cucumber. Mind you I am lucky to get 8 mins from each of my gp3300's. I can handle the car no problems and have been putting in some hot laps at the track. I am not skilled enough to race at those speeds as passing TT-01's on the track is still proving to be a challenge even though I am like 20KMH quicker. But I am learning all the time. I was led to believe the Nosram International was a great speedy not unlimited in turns but it's solid as a rock! When I need a better speedy I will get one but for now 13 turn limit is good enough for me.

Last edited by WRXTC; 08-05-2005 at 03:42 PM. Reason: spelling mistakes
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Old 08-05-2005, 04:04 PM   #30
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PHP Code:
I was led to believe the Nosram International was a great speedy not unlimited in turns but it's solid as a rock! 
Dont get me wrong, i dont even know that particular speedo! What i meant was that u should be carefull since it has history...

Also, try to be carefull when u ran a motor close to ure speedo limit. Gearing is crucial, and prolly the most important factor, but pay atention to ure drive train. Dirt, hair carpet and other stuf get into ure car and make life hard on motor and speedo.

Ah, and gear mesh to close can also overheat the engine.

In doubt the old thumb rule (get ure finger in the motor after running. if u cant keep it there for 5 sec, reduce ure pinion) still works.

Good luck with ure new engine!
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