motor dyno
07-31-2005, 06:58 PM
#1
motor dyno
Im wanting to get a dyno to work on hopping up motors. I was wondering what would be a good one, but for a guy with a small budget? I also have a few questions about the numbers to look for?
1) What is a good amp draw, Lower amps more power or vice versa?
2) Can you get a dyno that measures rpm, torque, amp, horspower?
I mean which one would tell you if your making power?
1) What is a good amp draw, Lower amps more power or vice versa?
2) Can you get a dyno that measures rpm, torque, amp, horspower?
I mean which one would tell you if your making power?
07-31-2005, 08:21 PM
#2
I am currently using a Facts Machine (graduated from a TEKIN and ear) to tell me whether I am making improvements to a motor, or building motors consistently the same. Though somewhat expensive, I got mine from a fellow that thought he was getting out of the hobby for a song!
Whatever, dyno you choose, remember you cannot "race" it. That is you cannot test on motor on your dyno, take over to a "buds" dyno and expect the same numbers! It will drive you nuts.
More Amps, more power, less run time
Less Amps, less power, more run time
The Facts Machine requires a computer...Its all in the software, but measures RPM, Power output @ ???? Rpms', torque (Nmm) and efficency. Once you know how to read the graphs, you will be able to identify numerous problems, i.e. "floating brushes" "weak springs". Gives you roll-out calucations, Oval Gearing Recommendations, Amps Draw at certain RPM levels and you can compare your stable of motors against each other. Provides motor information print-outs you can carry with you.
The Facts Machine is a flywheel dyno, the Tekin is a load. Plus, I don't think Tekin offers them anymore...
Reguardless of what dyno you get, the dyno works for you, the information it provides will help you with your motor building.
Arguments to which is better a flywheel or load dyno, shall be forthcoming. But the Facts Machine works for me!
Whatever, dyno you choose, remember you cannot "race" it. That is you cannot test on motor on your dyno, take over to a "buds" dyno and expect the same numbers! It will drive you nuts.
More Amps, more power, less run time
Less Amps, less power, more run time
The Facts Machine requires a computer...Its all in the software, but measures RPM, Power output @ ???? Rpms', torque (Nmm) and efficency. Once you know how to read the graphs, you will be able to identify numerous problems, i.e. "floating brushes" "weak springs". Gives you roll-out calucations, Oval Gearing Recommendations, Amps Draw at certain RPM levels and you can compare your stable of motors against each other. Provides motor information print-outs you can carry with you.
The Facts Machine is a flywheel dyno, the Tekin is a load. Plus, I don't think Tekin offers them anymore...
Reguardless of what dyno you get, the dyno works for you, the information it provides will help you with your motor building.
Arguments to which is better a flywheel or load dyno, shall be forthcoming. But the Facts Machine works for me!
07-31-2005, 08:33 PM
#3
Originally Posted by 4ou
Im wanting to get a dyno to work on hopping up motors. I was wondering what would be a good one, but for a guy with a small budget? I also have a few questions about the numbers to look for?
1) What is a good amp draw, Lower amps more power or vice versa?
2) Can you get a dyno that measures rpm, torque, amp, horspower?
I mean which one would tell you if your making power?
1) What is a good amp draw, Lower amps more power or vice versa?
2) Can you get a dyno that measures rpm, torque, amp, horspower?
I mean which one would tell you if your making power?
Remember, we race cars not dynos!
07-31-2005, 10:08 PM
#4
Tech Regular
The only dyno that works well is the Competition Turbo Dyno . This unit will set you back 1100.00$ new, a used one will cost 500-700. You will need a power source 45amp power supply( 300.00 ) or a deep cycle battery ( 75.00 ). The simplest way I can tell you is the dyno will put a load on the motor that will give you some information like amp draw and rpm. At best when you make a change i.e. brush or spring you will see a difference. Test it on the track and you will have a better chance at repeating the tuning on a rebuild or another motor. Depending on the type of racing you will be doing and your driving skill the money you spend on the above equipment, most would say spend that money on better batteries , charger or upgrades to you car. If you just like messing around with motors then some will say the money is worth spending.
08-02-2005, 02:51 PM
#5
Originally Posted by AdrianM
Get an Orion Pro LCS lap counting system. Instead of dynoing motors make a change in brush or spring and do a 5 min test run. No dyno will give you better information about your tuning efforts than real lap times.
Remember, we race cars not dynos!
Remember, we race cars not dynos!
08-02-2005, 07:16 PM
#6
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Yea unfortunately there's no real "buget" way to get a dyno that gives you any truely usefull numbers......the motor must be put under a measurable load...like on the widely used turbo dyno.....and then info collected.....reading ampdraw, rpm , efficiency, ect...under a no load condition dosn't end up meaning very much, because everything changes after the load has been placed on it(like as if it's in the car)........but if you end up getting one, I'd say go for what most motor tuners consider to be the best...the comp electronics turbo dyno, either the 30amp model (great for stock motors) or the 45amp model to take over where the 30amp leaves off......I believe you can still upgrade the 30amp to a 45amp model for around $100 from the company......like others said their going between about $650 to $1100 depending on the amp version , how old it is ,and how good of shape their in.........and if you plan on hopping up many motors.....for other than just yourself......A dyno is the only way...unless you want to put each and every motor in your car and test them out on the track 
08-02-2005, 09:27 PM
#7
I put my dyno in the back of my workbench for good. I now look at it as an overpriced break-in stand.
I learned when I was racing modified with a 17t motor...Its not necessarily how much power you have, its how you use it. During this period a lot of on-lookers thought the motor I was using just had a lot of torque because I was killing people in the first half of the straight but the smarter racers saw my line comming out of the corner and onto the straight was just better than anyone else's.
I've seen people I raced against being told later by their buddy watching the race "If you can just hang with that kid comming onto the straight then you can just motor right on by him going into the next corner"
If your running stock on a small budget I'd say just spend $40 on a good motor from EA, Brood or Paradigm, cut it after each day & break it in properly.
I learned when I was racing modified with a 17t motor...Its not necessarily how much power you have, its how you use it. During this period a lot of on-lookers thought the motor I was using just had a lot of torque because I was killing people in the first half of the straight but the smarter racers saw my line comming out of the corner and onto the straight was just better than anyone else's.
I've seen people I raced against being told later by their buddy watching the race "If you can just hang with that kid comming onto the straight then you can just motor right on by him going into the next corner"
If your running stock on a small budget I'd say just spend $40 on a good motor from EA, Brood or Paradigm, cut it after each day & break it in properly.
08-02-2005, 09:48 PM
#8
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Blackkat,Motor checkers are not to be confused with true dyno's..their a completely different animal, and the motor tuners you mentioned would never consider not using them for the motors they tune for people or themselves
.....also, power can make a huge difference.....especially when you have equal driver talent
.....also, power can make a huge difference.....especially when you have equal driver talent
Last edited by Joe B; 08-02-2005 at 10:05 PM.
08-02-2005, 09:54 PM
#9
So many racers are really stuck on this more power, more power thing. They spend tons of money on motors, dynos, brushes, drops and spend hours tuning motors....only to find that they aren't a bit faster on the track.
Here why. Stock motors are slow. They are incapable of pushing a properly setup sedan out of shape. There are corners on every track where your car will go the same speed whether you hold full or half throttle. The fast guys are disciplined enough to know where to let up to conserve battery and not overheat their motors. If you drive full wood all the time you suck a lot of amps out of your battery and really cook your motor. This means a good driver finishes a race on a higher voltage portion of his batteries discharge curve and with a cooler motor. Both of these things make them faster especially late in a race.
Drivers that develop this level of throttle control by racing only stock are really exceptional. Most guys learn throttle control by practicing with more power than they race with and club racing 19T or Mod. If you don't have throttle control you will have a lot of DNF's....but if you keep at it and you figure it out you will be way faster at Stock and 19T.
Mod really isn't that hard to drive. All you have to do is unlearn all you learned to do in stock...lol! You have to learn to let off sooner, use brakes and roll on the throttle smoothly. All of these skills will make you way faster in stock...except braking...you never need brakes in stock...lol!
After running mod for a while when you do back to stock the car will feel SOOO SLOOOOOWWWW you will be so far ahead of the car that you can drive much tighter lines and drive more efficiently.
My advice...get some 10 turn mods and use them for practice. Keep at it...don't give up if you don't get it right away. You will become a much better racer.
Here why. Stock motors are slow. They are incapable of pushing a properly setup sedan out of shape. There are corners on every track where your car will go the same speed whether you hold full or half throttle. The fast guys are disciplined enough to know where to let up to conserve battery and not overheat their motors. If you drive full wood all the time you suck a lot of amps out of your battery and really cook your motor. This means a good driver finishes a race on a higher voltage portion of his batteries discharge curve and with a cooler motor. Both of these things make them faster especially late in a race.
Drivers that develop this level of throttle control by racing only stock are really exceptional. Most guys learn throttle control by practicing with more power than they race with and club racing 19T or Mod. If you don't have throttle control you will have a lot of DNF's....but if you keep at it and you figure it out you will be way faster at Stock and 19T.
Mod really isn't that hard to drive. All you have to do is unlearn all you learned to do in stock...lol! You have to learn to let off sooner, use brakes and roll on the throttle smoothly. All of these skills will make you way faster in stock...except braking...you never need brakes in stock...lol!
After running mod for a while when you do back to stock the car will feel SOOO SLOOOOOWWWW you will be so far ahead of the car that you can drive much tighter lines and drive more efficiently.
My advice...get some 10 turn mods and use them for practice. Keep at it...don't give up if you don't get it right away. You will become a much better racer.
08-02-2005, 10:37 PM
#10
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Good driving improvement advice Adrian,(I couldn't agree more) but when a guy goes back to the stock motors after all the practice with a ten turn....and he's learned throttle control to the point that he can more than handle and maxamize his use of a stock motor(mabe he even already can)not sure........It would be nice if he knew how to tune a fast good running stock motor so that his skills aren't lopsided right?........ 
you will never see any of the consistant top guys in stock class with motors that are down on power.....In my opinion....there's just no reason not to learn to tune a motor of any kind in our hobby.....stock, 19turn, or mod....plus it's half the fun 
you will never see any of the consistant top guys in stock class with motors that are down on power.....In my opinion....there's just no reason not to learn to tune a motor of any kind in our hobby.....stock, 19turn, or mod....plus it's half the fun
08-02-2005, 10:47 PM
#11
Originally Posted by Joe B
Good driving improvement advice Adrian,(I couldn't agree more) but when a guy goes back to the stock motors after all the practice with a ten turn....and he's learned throttle control to the point that he can more than handle and maxamize his use of a stock motor(mabe he even already can)not sure........It would be nice if he knew how to tune a fast good running stock motor so that his skills aren't lopsided right?........ you will never see any of the consistant top guys in stock class with motors that are down on power.....In my opinion....there's just no reason not to learn to tune a motor of any kind in our hobby.....stock, 19turn, or mod....plus it's half the fun
you will never see any of the consistant top guys in stock class with motors that are down on power.....In my opinion....there's just no reason not to learn to tune a motor of any kind in our hobby.....stock, 19turn, or mod....plus it's half the fun By the way, congrats on the new motor venture with BMI!
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
