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Old 07-24-2005, 06:26 PM   #1
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Default old to r/c, new to niMH, what am i doin wrong?

what am i doin wrong?

i should mention i'm just now back into this. i can charge nicd's no prob.

but i got 3 new trinity 3000mah niMH sport packs from stormer, and none of them take crap for a charge. a bc100l (i monitor b/c its not a niMH charger), a 969, and a timer charger-nothin has made a diff.

the car struggles to make 4min or so in a TT01 w/a beercan and a 19T (TCS) pinion.

i pulled a 1500mah outta a OFNA starter box, charge it up (maybe not even peaked) and ran over 13min w/it.

no matter what i try. somethin doesnt add up. almost want to give them 2 some1 else to see if they can charge em on another charger or perhaps is doin somethin i'm missin. i cant fathom that all 3 batts are defects. i know stormer wont take em back even if they were b/c i went and put deans on all of them. who knows what trinity will say. dont wanna rip them apart just to check cells (stick packs) to find a dead 1 or 2.

either way it makes me wanna go just buy all 2000/2400 nicads if i can find them and use that type for this lil spec racer.

thoughts? help!

-Ult

Last edited by ultegrasti; 07-24-2005 at 08:24 PM.
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Old 07-24-2005, 07:53 PM   #2
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Cells get warm during peak charging. Unless yours are becoming too hot to handle then it does seem statistically unlikely that you have dead cells in three different packs.

Maybe they are false peaking on the chargers designed for NiMH batteries?
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Old 07-24-2005, 07:56 PM   #3
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Ult- What you're experiencing is not uncommon. In fact, since you bought 3000's which are probably old then you will have even more trouble. NiMH are bad about false peaking especially the first cycle or two and even more so when they have been on the shelf a long time. Those chargers you are using aren't helping much either.

The best thing I can tell you to do is use the peak charger set to 5 amps and keep hitting peak until the pack is above 120*F. Probably be best to use a temp gun or borrow one. Run the pack until it's down and then discharge to 5.4 volts. Most likely the packs will quit giving so much trouble after the 2nd or third cycle.

www.kinteixrc.com has some great stick packs for a killer price or www.teameamotorsports.com has great race packs if you want to build your own.
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Old 07-24-2005, 08:02 PM   #4
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I got some 'BAD' packs last year and Couldn't believe it but three were abd and the last one wasn't good either. the one will work but not well and the three are just plainOut BAD! NiMh just has a different peak voltage cutback requirment. So if U use a regular (old) charger, just watch the temperature, Really close and stop charging ASA a temp change is noticable.
If U gonna keep using NiMh, then U'll havta eventually git i better/newer charger. But Yah, I would have someone at the local track try to charge them on a newer electronic type charger and see wut the #'s are. This will tell if the packs are bad.
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Old 07-24-2005, 08:04 PM   #5
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will work around that knowledge. just tried the 15min to 'hit' the cells. no dice. didnt think it would work, but i tried.

idk what to think of the 969, nice for Rx packs and glows. but now that i have an electric car. makes me want another 112 tekin bad.

right now tryin 1.5a w/a higher false peak on the 969 on a timed charge and see where that gets me.

pulled 1 pack apart b/c i got antzy/frustrated and no cells showing 'flipped' or low/dead.

i'm tryin, yet still i wanna go get 2400mah niCDs after this (i know its kneejerk).

-Ult
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Old 07-24-2005, 08:05 PM   #6
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the 969 s.brain not good enuff (i'd prefer a 112 tekin like b4, but didnt think i'd need it for just a spec racer to use 4 fun on the side)

-Ult
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Old 07-24-2005, 10:01 PM   #7
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Set your MV setting to 5 per cell (30 for a 6 cell) Charge at atleast 3-5 amps (1.5 is too low)
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Old 07-25-2005, 02:52 AM   #8
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I belive your problems will be solved if you buy some fresh GP3300 packs. Hey buy one pack GP3300 and test, they are far much better than any 3000 packs.
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Old 07-25-2005, 06:03 AM   #9
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tried 4.5a no help goes up to 8.3-8.4 (under load mind u) and thats it. 1 pack now lasts up to 2m20sec on my dumpster, the other is now up to just over 1min (2 less cycles). 1500 sport pack on other hand takes well over 5min on the dumpster to dim.

even if the packs are old and flat and the cells wont recover (they should be ashamed if so, lookin at this SCE i've had on all nite and now ready to go)....i'm still out 60bux now. i know they' hose me on them b/c i went and put deans on them vs the tamiya they come with.

i'll call them, but i dont hold much hope (the 1 pack is torn down as i mentioned-no obvious bad cells). if i'm stuck w/them i'll take em 2 some1 w/a CE and see if they can wake em up.

again this sux real bad. 2400 v-maxx nicds any good (for a spec racer)???

-Ult
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Old 07-25-2005, 06:34 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ultegrasti
TT01 w/a beercan -Ult
lol i supose that is a chromecan 540?......lol a beercan...ima call it that from now on
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Old 07-25-2005, 08:45 AM   #11
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my question to you is how long is it taking for your batteries to charge or how long are you letting them charge? But in the mean time, i would have someone else try charging your batteries, like you said, because then you can also see what the batteries are taking in MAH and voltage, to then really decide if they are bad.

I hope you can get this whole situation figured out ok.
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Old 07-25-2005, 10:32 AM   #12
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pink pac man, I think He's talkin' about a mobashi 540 can (Closed end-bell).
I think these were the same batteries that I got stuck with, last year (one pair-O-stick packs). I just decided to only buy better cells from a local matcher. The prices arn't that much more and I know I'll be gittin' better batteries.
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Old 07-25-2005, 02:12 PM   #13
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TRINITY 3000MAH VIS SPORT PACKS FROM STORMER.

GRRRR-THEIR NOT PLAYIN BALL AS OF NOW. RAN THE 1700 SCE BATT IN THE CAR OVER 15MIN.

-ULT
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