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Old 12-25-2013, 09:23 PM   #16
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What is wrong with the plain steel screws? Unless you are going for bling, then disregard what I am asking.
Weight down low, and add back the difference where you want it as it was explained to me.
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Old 12-25-2013, 09:29 PM   #17
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what i would suggest that i did over time was start replacing the parts that i had broken or stripped put a longer screw threw them and a nut if need be and sometimes had to use washers well that added up to be like 10g of extra weight, and 10g in alot of excess wire between that and the extra paint on the body being another 20g extra i had some aftermarket battery holders another 20g off switched to tape so i shaved about 60g by using the "correct" screws and using things appropriately so the short version is just use the correct things on the car and it should be more than light enough (tc is 1380 my car with stock stuff is 1381)
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Old 12-26-2013, 01:24 AM   #18
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what rtrs and cheap kits use aluminum screws??? the only kits I have seen them used are high end pan cars, and high end touring cars.

I don't think they would use them in the cars you mentioned, as they are more expensive than steel, and not nearly as durable.
I don't know all rtr's and kits, but most I have seen are supplied with them. My tamiya kit is too, and that isn't high end.
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Old 12-26-2013, 06:29 AM   #19
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As a retired machine designer, fasteners were a very important part of any design. There is a whole lot more to the basic material than most of you think. The grade of the aluminum or titanium is very critical. Some r/c manufacturers have been advertising 7075 aluminum but not its treatment (T3-T6) only to turn out it isn't treated at all and is dead soft. The same thing can exist with the screws. They all have grades and that is important. I select what screws go in specific locations on the car based on their stress, how many times am I going to take it in or out (wear) and weight (as well as location on the car).
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Old 12-26-2013, 09:41 AM   #20
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I don't know all rtr's and kits, but most I have seen are supplied with them. My tamiya kit is too, and that isn't high end.
Which kit?
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Old 12-27-2013, 03:06 AM   #21
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Which kit?
buggy - tamiya desert gator. It has a lot of aluminium screws, some are steel, such as on the bulkhead and a few on the bottom, but most are aluminium. The same is on the sand viper and holiday buggy.
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Old 12-27-2013, 03:50 PM   #22
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From what I have learned at work where we make space flight hardware. Stainless in lower chassis, if you need to make minimum weight. Titanium in load bearing areas and aluminum in the remainder. Stainless can keep center of gravity (or mass) low. Titanium is stronger than aluminum and can be torqued more. In some cases where I have a small fastener that might be subject to a load. I will use a steel screw.
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Old 12-27-2013, 05:31 PM   #23
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buggy - tamiya desert gator. It has a lot of aluminium screws, some are steel, such as on the bulkhead and a few on the bottom, but most are aluminium. The same is on the sand viper and holiday buggy.
I don't think so, they are just the tamiya super crappy steel screws. that type of screw (black/brown and shiny with a phillips head) comes on the cheaper tamiya cars, they came on my ta-05 v.2. The hex head version of those (same material, just a 2mm hex) are much better, but still super crappy compared to any other screw.

they are so easily stripped they might "feel like" aluminum though.

99% sure on that.
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Old 12-28-2013, 01:31 AM   #24
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I don't think so, they are just the tamiya super crappy steel screws. that type of screw (black/brown and shiny with a phillips head) comes on the cheaper tamiya cars, they came on my ta-05 v.2. The hex head version of those (same material, just a 2mm hex) are much better, but still super crappy compared to any other screw.

they are so easily stripped they might "feel like" aluminum though.

99% sure on that.
Okay, thank you, but seriously I don't think it was needed for me to tell you the type of vehicle and make and company.
Let me re-phase my first answer to this thread:
Some tamiya kits and some tamiya rtr's are supplied with very crappy steel screws that are very much like aluminium, in terms of strength and how they feel. Happy now panda?
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Old 12-28-2013, 11:01 AM   #25
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Okay, thank you, but seriously I don't think it was needed for me to tell you the type of vehicle and make and company.
Let me re-phase my first answer to this thread:
Some tamiya kits and some tamiya rtr's are supplied with very crappy steel screws that are very much like aluminium, in terms of strength and how they feel. Happy now panda?
I was never unhappy, but I didn't know that any of them came with aluminum screws, so I was surprised when you said they did. You could have been right, I just wanted to know the true information.
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Old 12-28-2013, 01:03 PM   #26
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For aluminum parts (like bulkheads) that bolt onto the chassis or load-bearig pieces (servo mount), use titanium. For everything else you can use aluminum IF they are quality screws. I like to use aluminum screws for the shock towers and upper deck, plus the color stands out against the CF ...... You can switch between them and steel/titanium to affect the flex.
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Old 12-30-2013, 04:18 AM   #27
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anyway, I think aluminium screws are better for on-road, and titanium are better for off-road. Maybe for on-road you could put a couple of titanium or steel screws up front, for strength.
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Old 01-20-2014, 03:59 PM   #28
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how much weight can be saved if changing all screws from std steel to aluminium?

need to shave off 25g on my car
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Old 01-20-2014, 04:04 PM   #29
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I think one guy at my track shaved off over 30g of weight by going completely aluminum/ titanium. Don't quote me on that though. He told me exactly how much but I can't remember.
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Old 01-20-2014, 06:29 PM   #30
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how much weight can be saved if changing all screws from std steel to aluminium?

need to shave off 25g on my car
Reduce wiring and the amount of paint on your body... average bodies weigh about 120 you can reduce that to about 90-95g
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