3LikesTeam Associated TC6.2 Touring Car
11-27-2014, 06:39 AM
#1591
Tech Adept
3 quick questions; setting up ride height and droop.
Whenever I'm setting ride height; invariably I get different answers each time I double check my work. I'm wondering if when I'm setting my TC6.2 on the hudy board I'm not letting it settle correctly; At first I just press down each end and then adjust accordingly. I'm wondering if I have to press each end of the car down a few times and then adjust the spring collars appropriately.
What do other people do?
I'm using the AE ride height guage, should I just break down and get the stepped hudy one? I do have the graduated one.
Also setting the droop settings; I do it by eye as I think alot of people do; looking at the droop set screws, lifting up the chassis slightly until the scews hit the chassis.
There is this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYLvImYUBt4
Gills here uses the hudy setup blocks and droop guage; is that the way to go? or is my way (I assume most peoples) the easier way.
Whenever I'm setting ride height; invariably I get different answers each time I double check my work. I'm wondering if when I'm setting my TC6.2 on the hudy board I'm not letting it settle correctly; At first I just press down each end and then adjust accordingly. I'm wondering if I have to press each end of the car down a few times and then adjust the spring collars appropriately.
What do other people do?
I'm using the AE ride height guage, should I just break down and get the stepped hudy one? I do have the graduated one.
Also setting the droop settings; I do it by eye as I think alot of people do; looking at the droop set screws, lifting up the chassis slightly until the scews hit the chassis.
There is this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dYLvImYUBt4
Gills here uses the hudy setup blocks and droop guage; is that the way to go? or is my way (I assume most peoples) the easier way.
11-27-2014, 03:48 PM
#1592
Hi Irvin,
When ever I set-up ride height, I will always press down on the front and back of the car to make sure it's set. After each adjustment and turn of the collar, I will press down on the front and back shock towers again before making a measurement.
I use a Dynamite and Integy gauge. The Dynamite is a precision gauge in that it measures 0.5mm increments, and is a straight ramp on the other side. The Integy ride height & droop gauge measures in 1mm increments. For droop I use EDS 10mm blocks in conjunction with the Integy droop gauge. It sets-up really well and I prefer this way with blocks.
I find my adjustments don't deviate at all during set-up and after running.
When ever I set-up ride height, I will always press down on the front and back of the car to make sure it's set. After each adjustment and turn of the collar, I will press down on the front and back shock towers again before making a measurement.
I use a Dynamite and Integy gauge. The Dynamite is a precision gauge in that it measures 0.5mm increments, and is a straight ramp on the other side. The Integy ride height & droop gauge measures in 1mm increments. For droop I use EDS 10mm blocks in conjunction with the Integy droop gauge. It sets-up really well and I prefer this way with blocks.
I find my adjustments don't deviate at all during set-up and after running.
11-27-2014, 10:36 PM
#1593
Thanks! It was good to race with your club and meet new people!
I think the slop is less important as we make it out to be.. But I'm just a club racer, and can't discern between the .003 lap difference it may make.
What did you do to fix the binding of the hub to steering black on the bottom screw? I think I may have to remove a bit of metal...
During the race this Sunday in practice, I hit a car that was stopped on the straightaway, it resulted in a broken C-Hub.. This got me thinking if I had the Aluminum on in, it would not have broke, but then I wonder what else would have broke. As it was it was simple to replace, but had it been the A Arm that broke, that would have been more of a paint to replace I think...
I was looking at a Reedy Black Box for my W-GT as it does 1s....
I think the slop is less important as we make it out to be.. But I'm just a club racer, and can't discern between the .003 lap difference it may make.
What did you do to fix the binding of the hub to steering black on the bottom screw? I think I may have to remove a bit of metal...
During the race this Sunday in practice, I hit a car that was stopped on the straightaway, it resulted in a broken C-Hub.. This got me thinking if I had the Aluminum on in, it would not have broke, but then I wonder what else would have broke. As it was it was simple to replace, but had it been the A Arm that broke, that would have been more of a paint to replace I think...
I was looking at a Reedy Black Box for my W-GT as it does 1s....
Good thing you had that bumper brace on! Lol
11-29-2014, 02:32 AM
#1595
I use Hudy gauges measuring 0.2mm increments with 10mm blocks in conjunction with the droop gauge. I was aalways happy with that throughout the past years at clubracing level running 17.5T.
I think the most important thing is, that you allways use the same method of pressing down and measuring. That's the only way you will be able to track and understand your changes on your setup. And you'll allways be able to return to an older setup of yours which you documented earlier.
11-29-2014, 11:07 AM
#1596
So do I.
I use Hudy gauges measuring 0.2mm increments with 10mm blocks in conjunction with the droop gauge. I was aalways happy with that throughout the past years at clubracing level running 17.5T.
I think the most important thing is, that you allways use the same method of pressing down and measuring. That's the only way you will be able to track and understand your changes on your setup. And you'll allways be able to return to an older setup of yours which you documented earlier.
I use Hudy gauges measuring 0.2mm increments with 10mm blocks in conjunction with the droop gauge. I was aalways happy with that throughout the past years at clubracing level running 17.5T.
I think the most important thing is, that you allways use the same method of pressing down and measuring. That's the only way you will be able to track and understand your changes on your setup. And you'll allways be able to return to an older setup of yours which you documented earlier.
11-29-2014, 11:53 AM
#1598
If you are crashing hard the c-hubs can break. They are not fragile but also not as bulletproof as the Xray ones. For the last two years I didn't break one... So this is just a problem if you frequently hit the boards hard 
11-29-2014, 12:29 PM
#1600
My steel outdrives lasted the whole summer season with a 10.5t motor. For the winter I changed them plus the axles.
11-29-2014, 04:50 PM
#1601
I've got 3 full days of racing on the steel outdrives and they show practically no wear at all yet. Use a good thick grease on the universal drive pins to help with friction and wear, I use Tamiya Anti-Wear Grease personally but plenty of others will work fine.
11-30-2014, 12:46 AM
#1603
ReflexRacing has some nice option parts. A must have are the bladders.