3LikesTeam Associated TC6.2 Touring Car
03-09-2014, 05:55 PM
#721
Looked up alum anodizing and there were 10 places near me; had them strip the old and re-anodize clear.
Ran $25 to strip, $50 to redo, took 3 days. A bit much, but I was toying between the 6.2 and T4'14 (very similar cars), but I don't like the blue.
Then I realized $TC6.2 + $75 < $T4'14 and I got to pick my color, so I pulled the trigger.
Ran $25 to strip, $50 to redo, took 3 days. A bit much, but I was toying between the 6.2 and T4'14 (very similar cars), but I don't like the blue.
Then I realized $TC6.2 + $75 < $T4'14 and I got to pick my color, so I pulled the trigger.
03-09-2014, 08:08 PM
#723
Looked up alum anodizing and there were 10 places near me; had them strip the old and re-anodize clear.
Ran $25 to strip, $50 to redo, took 3 days. A bit much, but I was toying between the 6.2 and T4'14 (very similar cars), but I don't like the blue.
Then I realized $TC6.2 + $75 < $T4'14 and I got to pick my color, so I pulled the trigger.
Ran $25 to strip, $50 to redo, took 3 days. A bit much, but I was toying between the 6.2 and T4'14 (very similar cars), but I don't like the blue.
Then I realized $TC6.2 + $75 < $T4'14 and I got to pick my color, so I pulled the trigger.
03-09-2014, 08:24 PM
#724
Mark Dawson - R/C Driver Not to hedge my bet but the best kit out-of-the-box + value is the AE TC6.2.
There is a $100 price difference between the TC6.2 and the T4 base kits.
Both kits were improved with addition of ECS/DCJ style driveshafts. On the track - it is near a dead heat in terms of lap times. Both were wicked fast but drove very differently.
The 6.2 carries a lot of cornerspeed, generates a ton of traction and carves hard. The T4 is more neutral and feels free in the corners. I had noticed that the T4 mid-corner push on carpet but honestly on asphalt - has great steering input thru all phases of turn. Parts wear over the course of two months of carpet and asphalt racing - both cars have standard wear. My T4 needed a bit more chassis work and arm-stiffeners to get a more direct feel. I would like to track down short shock conversion kit for the 6.2.
For the golfers, the Xray is like hitting with a Callaway - forgiving; the AE is like hitting with a Taylor Made - aggressive
I spent a bit more to get the Xray to drive aggressively with the addition of the ECS', harder arms, different top decks and progressive springs. Equaled more $$$
For the 6.2 - just added the ECS-style driveshafts.
Regardless if you are an expert or an up-and-comer I would look hard at the 6.2 first.
Hope that helps.
03-09-2014, 09:31 PM
#726
Help
Our local hobby shop still does not have the spacers and I tried to order on RC10.com website. The website keeps asking for my correct name on my card.
03-09-2014, 10:59 PM
#727
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
Curious if anyone uses loktite on ALL of the screws going into aluminum parts? I did it on my 6.1 but was told not to as it could affect the handling. Last two times I've raced my 6.2 (no loktite) I've had the servo come loose and this past week I had the rear shock tower lose the screws, bell crank and bearing cap come loose. Am I not cranking these down enough or do I need to check them every run. Thanks
03-09-2014, 11:21 PM
#728
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
Loctite shouldn't be necessary with assembly of the chassis. I used to use a bit in axle pins but with the newer g-clip style my loctite has dried up. 
If you normally disassemble you chassis for maintenance than no loctite should be used so the threads don't get galled up or risk wearing out the heads of your screws.
Most likely and I too make this mistake is that your screws were left loose from when you assembled the chassis.
If you normally disassemble you chassis for maintenance than no loctite should be used so the threads don't get galled up or risk wearing out the heads of your screws.
Most likely and I too make this mistake is that your screws were left loose from when you assembled the chassis.
03-14-2014, 05:08 AM
#730
I actually lightly grease almost all my screws with black grease into the aluminum so that they don't seize as badly when tightened. they are still very tight and require no more maintenance than normal. I've never had one back out while racing.
Curious if anyone uses loktite on ALL of the screws going into aluminum parts? I did it on my 6.1 but was told not to as it could affect the handling. Last two times I've raced my 6.2 (no loktite) I've had the servo come loose and this past week I had the rear shock tower lose the screws, bell crank and bearing cap come loose. Am I not cranking these down enough or do I need to check them every run. Thanks
03-16-2014, 06:31 PM
#732
Tech Addict
Congratulations to Keven Hebert for winning Mod TC and Super Stock TC with his Associated at the Canadian Carpet On Road Nationals in Welland Ontario today.
03-17-2014, 09:58 AM
#734
Tech Initiate
I'm running the stock set up on my 6 .2. Our track is sprayed with fruit punch and with my nitro car it can be lose with foam tires. I'm running 32 aps tires I clean them with brake cleaner then put some paragon sauce on the tires in till I'm ready to run then I wipe off with brake cleaner found if you don't wipe it off and is moisture in the air like at night the tires get gummy and start picking up dirt and sugar form the punch. The thing i don't like is the spool,it causes a push on power like in the sweepers. So I'm going to change to a gear Diff . Spool does help pull the car out of corners when track is lose. It really depends on your driving style hopes this helps good luck
03-17-2014, 10:40 AM
#735
