3LikesTeam Associated TC6.2 Touring Car
05-22-2015, 11:52 AM
#2056
We at RSD came out with a different suspension geometry package a while back. The geometry on the TC6.2 is not quite right. If it were, the team guys would not be changing the parts over to what they are.
The AE mod is a little more complex as you have to re-drill the rear arms to mount a swaybar mount and I believe also to match hinge pin size. They are also using Yokomo rear hub carriers to match up with the TC4 rear arms.
Our conversion is a little more straight forward and more plug and play. Our geometry (click on the link to the left) mimics the Yokomo's more closely, especially in the front. The results are more predictable handling, better mid corner rotation and more overall bite. Additionally slop is drastically reduced and durability goes way up.
Many people will say "I'm not good enough for it to make a difference". This is not the correct train of though. An easier car to drive will make you a better driver.
The swaybars are changed because they are easier to set up and the feel is more consistent. Due to the threads on the rod holders, the swaybars on the TC6.1/.2 are always cocked to one side. An easy way to mitigate this is to put in one set screw from the top and one from the bottom on the swaybar tube. This makes sure that as the set screw drives into the wire, it spins it in the right direction.
The AE mod is a little more complex as you have to re-drill the rear arms to mount a swaybar mount and I believe also to match hinge pin size. They are also using Yokomo rear hub carriers to match up with the TC4 rear arms.
Our conversion is a little more straight forward and more plug and play. Our geometry (click on the link to the left) mimics the Yokomo's more closely, especially in the front. The results are more predictable handling, better mid corner rotation and more overall bite. Additionally slop is drastically reduced and durability goes way up.
Many people will say "I'm not good enough for it to make a difference". This is not the correct train of though. An easier car to drive will make you a better driver.
The swaybars are changed because they are easier to set up and the feel is more consistent. Due to the threads on the rod holders, the swaybars on the TC6.1/.2 are always cocked to one side. An easy way to mitigate this is to put in one set screw from the top and one from the bottom on the swaybar tube. This makes sure that as the set screw drives into the wire, it spins it in the right direction.
05-22-2015, 01:21 PM
#2057
We at RSD came out with a different suspension geometry package a while back. The geometry on the TC6.2 is not quite right. If it were, the team guys would not be changing the parts over to what they are.
The AE mod is a little more complex as you have to re-drill the rear arms to mount a swaybar mount and I believe also to match hinge pin size. They are also using Yokomo rear hub carriers to match up with the TC4 rear arms.
Our conversion is a little more straight forward and more plug and play. Our geometry (click on the link to the left) mimics the Yokomo's more closely, especially in the front. The results are more predictable handling, better mid corner rotation and more overall bite. Additionally slop is drastically reduced and durability goes way up.
Many people will say "I'm not good enough for it to make a difference". This is not the correct train of though. An easier car to drive will make you a better driver.
The swaybars are changed because they are easier to set up and the feel is more consistent. Due to the threads on the rod holders, the swaybars on the TC6.1/.2 are always cocked to one side. An easy way to mitigate this is to put in one set screw from the top and one from the bottom on the swaybar tube. This makes sure that as the set screw drives into the wire, it spins it in the right direction.
The AE mod is a little more complex as you have to re-drill the rear arms to mount a swaybar mount and I believe also to match hinge pin size. They are also using Yokomo rear hub carriers to match up with the TC4 rear arms.
Our conversion is a little more straight forward and more plug and play. Our geometry (click on the link to the left) mimics the Yokomo's more closely, especially in the front. The results are more predictable handling, better mid corner rotation and more overall bite. Additionally slop is drastically reduced and durability goes way up.
Many people will say "I'm not good enough for it to make a difference". This is not the correct train of though. An easier car to drive will make you a better driver.
The swaybars are changed because they are easier to set up and the feel is more consistent. Due to the threads on the rod holders, the swaybars on the TC6.1/.2 are always cocked to one side. An easy way to mitigate this is to put in one set screw from the top and one from the bottom on the swaybar tube. This makes sure that as the set screw drives into the wire, it spins it in the right direction.
I have the RSD suspension conversion on my sedan and never looked back from the tc4 rear arms. one of the best/easiest changes you can make to improve the consistency of the car.
Aaron
05-22-2015, 01:26 PM
#2058
We at RSD came out with a different suspension geometry package a while back. The geometry on the TC6.2 is not quite right. If it were, the team guys would not be changing the parts over to what they are.
The AE mod is a little more complex as you have to re-drill the rear arms to mount a swaybar mount and I believe also to match hinge pin size. They are also using Yokomo rear hub carriers to match up with the TC4 rear arms.
Our conversion is a little more straight forward and more plug and play. Our geometry (click on the link to the left) mimics the Yokomo's more closely, especially in the front. The results are more predictable handling, better mid corner rotation and more overall bite. Additionally slop is drastically reduced and durability goes way up.
Many people will say "I'm not good enough for it to make a difference". This is not the correct train of though. An easier car to drive will make you a better driver.
The swaybars are changed because they are easier to set up and the feel is more consistent. Due to the threads on the rod holders, the swaybars on the TC6.1/.2 are always cocked to one side. An easy way to mitigate this is to put in one set screw from the top and one from the bottom on the swaybar tube. This makes sure that as the set screw drives into the wire, it spins it in the right direction.
The AE mod is a little more complex as you have to re-drill the rear arms to mount a swaybar mount and I believe also to match hinge pin size. They are also using Yokomo rear hub carriers to match up with the TC4 rear arms.
Our conversion is a little more straight forward and more plug and play. Our geometry (click on the link to the left) mimics the Yokomo's more closely, especially in the front. The results are more predictable handling, better mid corner rotation and more overall bite. Additionally slop is drastically reduced and durability goes way up.
Many people will say "I'm not good enough for it to make a difference". This is not the correct train of though. An easier car to drive will make you a better driver.
The swaybars are changed because they are easier to set up and the feel is more consistent. Due to the threads on the rod holders, the swaybars on the TC6.1/.2 are always cocked to one side. An easy way to mitigate this is to put in one set screw from the top and one from the bottom on the swaybar tube. This makes sure that as the set screw drives into the wire, it spins it in the right direction.
05-25-2015, 08:19 AM
#2060
Stronger Caster Blocks
I'm still running the box setup with the front spool and I have broken the right front caster block about four times with the minor of hits.
Are the TC5/TC6 caster blocks any stronger?
Are the TC5/TC6 caster blocks any stronger?
05-25-2015, 08:23 AM
#2061
05-25-2015, 10:37 AM
#2063
05-25-2015, 05:43 PM
#2065
Tech Addict
reedy setups,tips, modds
Lets have 'em!.. The AE cars looked good at the reedy race. Cant wait to see the team setups and tricks! I still run the tc5(heavily tweaked of course but i aint done) and im thiiiiis close to a newer more current car. Had my eye on three and the 6.2 is looking to be the best car of the bunch.
05-25-2015, 10:04 PM
#2068
Not an asphalt setup, but this has been working really well for me on carpet. My current mod and 17.5 setups are very close.
The TC4 rear arms allow the car to be driven very aggressively without the rear stepping out. There is a bit of work to get them on though. More wheelbase shims are required, a new droop screw hole needs to be drilled in the arms, the arm hinge pins need to be drilled, and some sanding may be required to provide clearance for the hub.
For those that like to play with setup, these arms are definitely worth trying out.
The TC4 rear arms allow the car to be driven very aggressively without the rear stepping out. There is a bit of work to get them on though. More wheelbase shims are required, a new droop screw hole needs to be drilled in the arms, the arm hinge pins need to be drilled, and some sanding may be required to provide clearance for the hub.
For those that like to play with setup, these arms are definitely worth trying out.
Last edited by samnelso; 05-25-2015 at 10:26 PM.
05-25-2015, 10:38 PM
#2069
05-26-2015, 07:56 AM
#2070
Tech Adept
How is arm sweep different than toe? If I want .5 deg toe out, is it better to make sure everything is straight (ie steering arm linkages confirmed by the hudy setup board) and then simply put a 2 dot in the FF, 1 dot FR?
