samnelso

iTrader: (1)

Could sand the servo ears with a dremel. I think if you take around 1mm off the ears it'll fit.

teknorookie

iTrader: (7)

I'll give that a shot. Thanks!

trilerian

iTrader: (51)

Hello fellow tc6.2 drivers. Do any of you have a spare top hat for the shocks and or an extra 1 dot arm mount? I don't want to spend $20 for parts for those two small things. I can trade other small misc parts for those, or give someone a couple of bucks for the parts. I have extra bushings for the c-hubs, 2mm blue shims, turnbuckle ends, etc...

irvinew

Thanks for the advice. To be honest I never calculated droop that way; it was always mm over ride height. To do this it is an art of trying to see when the set screw hits the chassis; I really don't think it is precise; but I think it is the preferred method amongst xray drivers in our club. I don't want to start a debate since it is outside the scope of this forum but don't most people do mm over ride height? or this just a simple preference.

I do have the Hudy setup station for touring; so when Hebert posts in his setup that say his value in the rear is 5, then that is the value on guage of which his car is sitting on his 10mm blocks? Sorry I've never used a droop guage before.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Just a suggestion on how to measure droop that will be sure you always have the same droop from car to car. I put the car on 10mm blocks and measure to the top of the axle right where it meets the hex. A good baseline setup for this on any car would be 5mm ride height with 34mm rear droop and 35mm front droop. My settings as of late have been 34.5mm rear and 36mm front but this is pretty aggressive and may be hard to drive.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Also, couldn't be happier to announce that I've signed with Team Associated for 2015! I had taken roughly a 5 year hiatus from TC but when they announced the Reedy Race was going to be held at Tamiya America again I couldn't resist coming out of retirement for that race. I missed finishing where I wanted by 1 spot but it was still enough for me to catch the racing bug again and I'm excited to see what I can do in 2015 with some amazing sponsors backing me!

Although I've only got a couple club races under my belt with the 6.2 I feel like it really fits my driving style very well. I'm still learning the car and have yet to nail my setup but I will still be on here often to answer any questions I can!

G-kenny

Have you guys any idea's what gearing combo would work to get a FDR of 4.5-4.6ish. Having a look at the Standard TC6.2 gear chart are there is no options that can get close.

trilerian

iTrader: (51)

104/46 will give you a 4.52 fdr, 104/45 willbe a 4.62 fdr

Rodney Racer

iTrader: (1)

Hi Randy, I'm just curious how much camber would effect the droop measurement when doing it this way. Not saying its right or wrong but thinking the camber could effect droop when measuring off the axle. Whats your opinion? Congrats on your AE signing as well.

irvinew

well if you have an Iphone; there is a app called ratio calc; has all the makes of brands including the 6.2 as well as the ability to input other variables (Tire size etc). I think its only couple of bucks for the app; makes things so simple.

Of course there are free things on the internet as well; hope that helps.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Glad you pointed that out because I did forget to bring it up. I always set my camber before setting droop, this way I can ensure the right and left sides will be measured accurately. I rarely venture outside of 1.5-2* of camber so although it will affect the measurement it will only be by maybe a tenth of a millimeter or so.

Thank you, still very excited to be a part of Team AE!

samnelso

iTrader: (1)

Interesting approach. I may have to give it a go and see how it compares to my traditional method of dialing in the sides by measuring under the arms then adjusting ORH. Consistency is key as stated before and the comparison will be interesting.

Welcome to the team Randy!

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

It's just another way of doing the same old thing, but just nice to not have to change your settings from car to car as new kits are released.

Thank you!

irvinew

Thanks for the advice, I assume you are measuring that value with a set of digital calipers and with the shocks off?

Thanks and it is good to have you with the AE team.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I've attached a picture for visual reference only, obviously you would use a setup board. But any calipers will do, I just set the caliper to the desired height and then adjust the droop until it's correct. I set the droop with the shocks on, typically in the front the springs will be pre-loaded which will press down on the arms at full droop so I want to make sure the droop is set correctly with that load applied.

Edit, go figure the picture is sideways but you can still see how I check.