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Old 12-20-2013, 08:24 AM   #61
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All the greys are just spares - you don't need any of them for the build. As you now know the "S" cups are the low profile versions which are used only for the outboard camber links to provide rim clearance. I did use one low profile grey cup on the inboard right steering tie-rod for belt clearance when mounting the steering tie-rods under the steering rack instead of on top and using two 2mm plastic spacers on the outboard end under the steering blocks to eliminate bump steer - whew.

Last edited by DavidNERODease; 12-20-2013 at 08:41 AM.
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Old 12-20-2013, 08:30 AM   #62
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The steering tie-rods should stay fairly parrallel to the lower A-arm during suspension movement with this geometry correction.

My brother ran the Ghost at Action Hobbies Kingsville and Lou's Speedway with great success for a first time on the track. We did have to change out the stock 96 spur for an Xray offset 100 to get the right FDR which was a bummer but the Xray spur worked perfectly - offset towards the motor I think.
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Old 12-20-2013, 08:35 AM   #63
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Further clarification on the shocks - I placed each assembled piston and shock shaft in a Dremel just to remove the moulding burr on one edge of the piston - you just need to put a tiny chamfer on the one edge - takes 1 second each. You can do this by hand with a hobby knife or sand paper also. Finished shocks are smooth as glass.
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Old 12-20-2013, 08:39 AM   #64
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While building the Wildfire I noticed the steering knuckles are much beefier on it so if you break one get the D06 hubs. You might break a steering a knuckle if you don't run a servo saver - XRAY saver or none as most others are too soft.
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Old 12-20-2013, 08:41 AM   #65
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We a building a kit for shop/track and will have Mr (IIC Vegas ) Dave Ehrlich get it dialed in and post some set up's soon.
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Old 12-20-2013, 10:26 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidNERODease View Post
All the greys are just spares - you don't need any of them for the build. As you now know the "S" cups are the low profile versions which are used only for the outboard camber links to provide rim clearance. I did use one low profile grey cup on the inboard right steering tie-rod for belt clearance when mounting the steering tie-rods under the steering rack instead of on top and using two 2mm plastic spacers on the outboard end under the steering blocks to eliminate bump steer - whew.
I used both the grey and white in my build. Used the grey on the fixed areas lie the arms and the white on the moving peices. Just to be different and give some contrast.

I different from your build; left my steering as to the build sheet. I thought the steering arms were not to bad. The angle of the arms to me is relative to the axle and when set at ride height and under load when drive should be ok. I'll find out on sunday if that holds true.

I did use on the front hubs the 6.5mm hub and an extra .5mm shim between the hub and the pin to get wheel/tire clearanc of the ball cup. Even with the Scup their was slight rubbing.

I would like to start seeing some setups of other too. Just curious how others are running. I have found nothing on setup sheets anywhere.
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Old 12-20-2013, 10:36 AM   #67
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With the stock steering setup you will get bump steer and the beautiful aluminum camber link could smash into the bulkhead during a crash (turn the wheels and imagine cliping the inside of a corner which violently compresses the suspension at full lock).

The Tamiya silver 6mm hex drives are perfect for VTA rims on the Ghost - the run truer.
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Old 12-20-2013, 09:13 PM   #68
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Re your post 61 re bump steer, would putting the spacers on top accomplish the same thing? Thanks.
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Old 12-22-2013, 04:29 PM   #69
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Re your post 61 re bump steer, would putting the spacers on top accomplish the same thing? Thanks.
I tried various top mount configurations and you can't get the right geometry without danger of the the links smashing into the bulkheads.

Second time on the track today and my brother has the the Ghost best lap time down to 1 tenth from Dave Johnson's best lap. Dave did 10.8 and my bro did multiple 10.9s with an old lipo, Novak ss and $50 esc.

Ghost is fast!
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Old 12-22-2013, 09:37 PM   #70
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OK thanks. I misunderstood what you were doing. After looking at your pic, I've got it.
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Old 12-22-2013, 10:11 PM   #71
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Got my Got about 10 laps on it with a new track layout[snowbirds layout] for those going from our track in Nashville. Start out very slick as traction compound wasn't set in on carpet. The car felt real nice when the traction was coming in I got carried away coming off the back straight into the sweeper and tag the inside corner pipe throwing me to the outside pipe of the sweeper. D.I.W. for me. Left front wheel was mangled. C hub damage steering block damage steering turnbuckle bent. oh well. Order replacements and others that might get it later. Hate bumming another car from someone else. But will get another chance in 2 weeks.

David where you Run?

Last edited by freebird; 12-23-2013 at 07:07 AM. Reason: reread david earlier post. Figured out your in Tx.
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Old 12-23-2013, 07:08 AM   #72
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At David. What FDR where you guys shooting for?
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Old 12-23-2013, 07:12 AM   #73
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My brother and I race at Lou's Speedway (London ON) and Action Hobbies Kingsville (Kingsville ON)
http://www.lousspeedway.com/
http://store.actionhobbieskingsville.com/
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Old 12-23-2013, 07:37 AM   #74
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At David. What FDR where you guys shooting for?
That is a funny question actually. I thought we were in the ball park with a 4.4 FDR on new tires at Lou's (practice on Saturday). But the Novak SS wasn't even warm and we were 5 tenths off the best lap. We ended up at 3.6 (note that this FDR would not be recommended for guys who crank the timing on newer motors). Last Wednesday was the first time we'd run at Lou's in months and I wish we'd slapped on that big pinion then! I probably suffered from the same issue as I was 4 tenths off the pace on Wednesday with my Mi5.

Anyway, the Ghost responed well to tiny camber changes too and we had it flying by Saturday afternoon. I will get the second Ghost running after we finish building the Wildfire D06's. Also need a few parts - the Ghost comes with what I assume are version 1 D05 front steering knuckles and we broke a couple and had to steel from the other kit. We also broke an upper deck due to a body tuck on the straightaway - car went head first into the wall.
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Old 12-23-2013, 08:10 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidNERODease View Post
That is a funny question actually. I thought we were in the ball park with a 4.4 FDR on new tires at Lou's (practice on Saturday). But the Novak SS wasn't even warm and we were 5 tenths off the best lap. We ended up at 3.6 (note that this FDR would not be recommended for guys who crank the timing on newer motors). Last Wednesday was the first time we'd run at Lou's in months and I wish we'd slapped on that big pinion then! I probably suffered from the same issue as I was 4 tenths off the pace on Wednesday with my Mi5.

Anyway, the Ghost responed well to tiny camber changes too and we had it flying by Saturday afternoon. I will get the second Ghost running after we finish building the Wildfire D06's. Also need a few parts - the Ghost comes with what I assume are version 1 D05 front steering knuckles and we broke a couple and had to steel from the other kit. We also broke an upper deck due to a body tuck on the straightaway - car went head first into the wall.
Ive got FDR at 3.6 with the 96-51 ratio. Yes I got the timing up. But its what it to to run with the others that do the same.

top deck Broke!!!!!!!!!!!! wow I would not have ever expected that. Ive ordered a bunch of spare parts last night but nothing chassis wise or drive line wise either. Hmmmm got me thinking now. Sure that was a major freak incident.
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