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Old 11-28-2013, 12:37 PM   #46
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Question for VBC. I notice that the steering rack is horizontal on the Ghost vs vertical like you previous cars. Was this found set-up found to advantagious for VTA, or was it more of a cost savings measure with no real performance difference?
I was wondering the same thing. I get the reason for the molded steering cranks and bushings but don't understand the new fibreglass piece and geometry. I have assemlbed the new steering system and it's works well - I think I could remove the little up and down wiggle of the new fibrelgass piece with one shim but it doesn't seem to translate into steering slop - so far on the bench anyway.
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Old 11-29-2013, 09:34 AM   #47
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Check out our Checkered Flag Friday Sale guys. Everything on sale with free shipping.......
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Old 11-29-2013, 12:13 PM   #48
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https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8V...it?usp=sharing

I assembled the steering as per the instructions and this is how it appears on the box art and other pics but this puts the steering links at an angle that would induce bump steer. There appears to be plenty of room to mount the inboard steering link ball joint on the bottom of the steering rack.
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Old 11-30-2013, 08:27 AM   #49
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We would like to thank all those who took advantage of our "Checkered Flag Friday" sale there are quite a few racers who now have VBC kits and parts on there way at a smoking deal... Thanks so much for the support :-)
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Old 11-30-2013, 08:50 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by DavidNERODease View Post
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8V...it?usp=sharing

I assembled the steering as per the instructions and this is how it appears on the box art and other pics but this puts the steering links at an angle that would induce bump steer. There appears to be plenty of room to mount the inboard steering link ball joint on the bottom of the steering rack.
I would try to start with the links level. One way or another.
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Old 12-02-2013, 10:26 AM   #51
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https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8V...it?usp=sharing

Here is what I have now - just used some included spacers and a longer screw.
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Old 12-02-2013, 10:28 AM   #52
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I may also use one of the extra low profile "S" ball cups to provide for more belt clearance.
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Old 12-02-2013, 02:48 PM   #53
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May change once you drive it, but that is where I would start.
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Old 12-06-2013, 08:09 PM   #54
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Just got my Ghost in today. Looks good in the box. Cant wait to start the build.
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Old 12-09-2013, 10:57 AM   #55
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I finally finished the chassis and the results are very nice. Overall the build was excellent. There a couple small typos in the manual and a few things that might confuse the noobs but this is a great overall kit. Both Ghost kits had one diff screw with an oversized hex but kit quality was very high. I made one change from the manual - the previous mentioned steering tie-rod change. I did very lightly polish the shock pistons (dampers are glass smooth now). Few chassis look and feel as good as the Ghost - can't wait to build the D06's!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8V...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8V...it?usp=sharing
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Old 12-09-2013, 10:59 AM   #56
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Oh and I'm not going to use the plastic wheel hexs. I installed the thick silver Tamiya hex drives with one 0.1mm axle shim pers side.
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Old 12-09-2013, 05:02 PM   #57
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Car looks good!! I love the white bits they included in the kit.
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Old 12-11-2013, 05:10 PM   #58
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Originally Posted by DavidNERODease View Post
I finally finished the chassis and the results are very nice. Overall the build was excellent. There a couple small typos in the manual and a few things that might confuse the noobs but this is a great overall kit. Both Ghost kits had one diff screw with an oversized hex but kit quality was very high. I made one change from the manual - the previous mentioned steering tie-rod change. I did very lightly polish the shock pistons (dampers are glass smooth now). Few chassis look and feel as good as the Ghost - can't wait to build the D06's!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8V...it?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8V...it?usp=sharing
you quoted a few typeO's. Im in my build now and on page 15 of the build sheet it lists 2 different part numbers for the ball cups. Ive got 2 different cups in my kit. 4 grey and four white. It says to use one of each on the turnbuckle for the rear. I built mine with the grey only because that was in the same bag as the turnbuckles and set screw and shims. Upon install I notice when lifting the arms full up, one side hits the suspension upright while the other side has full movement. Pictures Ive viewed on your car as well as VBC's website car everyone has the whites on both sides of the turnbuckle. I haven't looked further but thinking as Im type this I need to look at the sway bar setup and see if it calls for the other 2 differ buckles there as well. Well I just looked further into the build sheet and on pg19 it list the same ball cup configuration as pg15. A cup S on one side a whatever the other is. I have notice though that the white cups have a longer and deeper throat than the grey ones. So should I assume that the Grey attach to the bulkheads while the whites attach to the suspension for movement?
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Old 12-11-2013, 05:49 PM   #59
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We haven't built one yet for the shop, but there are Two part numbers for the white ball cups

VBC-0065-W short
VBC-0039-W tall

I would suspect the short ones go out on the turnbuckle at the wheel to provide the required clearance at the rim. I believe my D-06 I built the same way
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Old 12-11-2013, 06:00 PM   #60
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We haven't built one yet for the shop, but there are Two part numbers for the white ball cups

VBC-0065-W short
VBC-0039-W tall

I would suspect the short ones go out on the turnbuckle at the wheel to provide the required clearance at the rim. I believe my D-06 I built the same way
Ok. I see the difference on the cup size now. Ive got one larger cup in the grey and also in the white. I'm going to use the smaller cup on the upright just incase there might be a clearance issue with wheel and tire.
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