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Old 12-29-2015, 03:51 AM   #1321
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Thanks for all the suggestions. You guys are awesome. I'll give these a thorough testing next time out.

Most of the guys here run a lot of weight on the front A-arms (10-15g per side) after they saw Hiro do it AOC. Not a fan of that option.

I didn't sauce the full fronts because i'm stupid and didn't think of it. Only had time for a couple runs and my mind was somewhere else.

The track has about 2 club race runs plus a month of practice. Kind of green, but the Pardus guy should have had my problems too if it was the carpet. The black color (similar to the new CRC) makes it difficult to see when you get out of the groove. And because we run a lot of 1/12, the foam marbles really screws you if you do get off line.

BTW, I just received a shipment from The Boarder. They have all the popular Shimizu tires pre-glued on Tuning Haus rims. Looks great.
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Old 12-29-2015, 04:46 PM   #1322
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After a few weeks of struggles (although in truth, not really giving it the attention it deserves) finally got my X1 hooked up at the local track last night.
Had been struggling with it being far too pointy around the centre, with a very unlinear feel and just, well, very hard to drive consistently.
Part of the issue it seems is the harder than kit front spring on the car, which when I attempted to takeaway steering from the middle initially, really started to make it too darty on initial... but with no other options in the box atm had to work with it.

Main changes I've figured out were moving the steering forward on the bell crank, removing the upper tower shims, and adding an extra mm on top of the upper arm. Also went back up to 6 castor from 3, and it gained me back the mid corner I had lost.

Overall quite happy really. Fast laps at the local track are high 18's usually... managed an 18.4 and 18.3, on old Pits, so happy with that. Actually enjoying F1 again...
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Old 12-29-2015, 06:36 PM   #1323
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Originally Posted by xevias View Post
I'm stumped on this and hope you guys can point me in the right direction.

My X1 has a massive push entering corners. So bad that I'm 1 sec. a lap slower than a car on Pardus tires. Only observation is the inside tire lifts in the sweeper. The track size is a little larger than IIC.

Basically to get it to turn, you have to slam the brakes and skid it sideways. But that driving style won't work with our 30 minute mains.

Here are the details:
- First run on our new ETS carpet
- Xray metal chassis
- 2015 body
- Pit Shimizu tires 571/572
- Battery transverse
- Weight = 1050
- Serpent ETS front wing - full downforce
- Team Saxo rear wing - full downforce
- Ride height is: F=4mm, M=4mm, R=4.2mm
- Running Motiv 21.5, Blinky

Front
- 1.5* Camber
- 9* Caster
- Inside front half sauced
- 2mm under all suspension posts
- 1mm droop
- 1* toe out
- Ackerman: all outer holes on bell crank and knuckles (kit settings)
- Springs are Ride Big Bore Blue (kind of soft)

Rear
- Xray Gold side springs, just touching chassis
- Xray side shock with 350 oil
- Xray shock with 600 oil and Black 2.2 spring
- Tight diff with carbide balls

Thanks for the help.
More toe out, 2-2.5deg for corner entry.
Full front additive for longer than the rears if necessary.
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Old 01-01-2016, 08:43 AM   #1324
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Anyone have one of these they would like to sell ...
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Old 01-01-2016, 08:45 AM   #1325
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Anyone have one of these they would like to sell ...
Right here.. brand spanking new w/ 2 Mon-Tech front wings:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ont-wings.html

PM me for questions. Thanks.
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Old 01-03-2016, 04:26 AM   #1326
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I'm pretty new to the X1 but loving the car. However, how is front droop altered? Getting over steer mid corner when applying power.
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Old 01-03-2016, 11:30 AM   #1327
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Originally Posted by nova2015 View Post
I'm pretty new to the X1 but loving the car. However, how is front droop altered? Getting over steer mid corner when applying power.
Add additional spacers under the knuckle
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Old 01-03-2016, 11:46 AM   #1328
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Default x ray kit.

I noticed Armory Hobbies still has one in shop a couple days ago. Give Mike a call. I think 6183192070.
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Old 01-03-2016, 02:27 PM   #1329
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Originally Posted by JDCrow View Post
373512-K X1 COMPOSITE ADJUSTABLE REAR WING - BLACK
379701 XRAY X1'16 1/10 FORMULA BODY
376230 X1'16 Servo Holder
375258-o X1'16 Alu Servo Mount
371075 X1'16 Rear Brace
371093 X1'16 Plate for mounts
373548 X1'16 Rear Pod Upper Plate
378141 X1 Side Linkage Tube (2)
378153 Composite Linkage Shaft (2)
372650 Ball End 4.2mm
296540-o Alum Nut M3 (4)
By comparing the two instruction manuals am I correct in thinking the following would also be required to convert to a 2016 spec.:

37 1063 X116 ARM MOUNT PLATE - 2.5MM GRAPHITE
37 2662 COMPOSITE BALL-JOINT 4.2 MM (4)
37 2551-O ALU STEERING PIVOT SHAFT SHORT
90 6206 SCREW PHILLIPS FH 2.2x6 (4)

and that a couple of the part numbers above should be:

37 6258-O X116 ALU SERVO MOUNT ORANGE
29 6530-O Alum Nut M3 (4)

Thanks
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Old 01-03-2016, 09:05 PM   #1330
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I'm pretty new to the X1 but loving the car. However, how is front droop altered? Getting over steer mid corner when applying power.
Also try changing caster from 9 degree's to 6 degree's, this will help the car feel more stable from mid corner to exit under power.
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Old 01-03-2016, 09:10 PM   #1331
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Thanks again for the help guys.

After making most of the suggested changes, the car feels great. Took 2 seconds a lap off my time after converting the side damper to the 2016 tubes with 10K.
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Old 01-04-2016, 02:46 AM   #1332
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Thanks again for the help guys.

After making most of the suggested changes, the car feels great. Took 2 seconds a lap off my time after converting the side damper to the 2016 tubes with 10K.
What changes did you find made the most difference?
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Old 01-04-2016, 03:13 AM   #1333
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In the end I made all the suggested changes. But it was moving to the stiffer Black side springs that helped the most.

Moving from 9* to 6* caster was the next best change.
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Old 01-04-2016, 11:46 AM   #1334
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Attachment 1334868Just got the X1 and I kept stripping the spur gear. It actually happened twice less then one minute into a run. I tried resetting the gear mash several times and did it correctly with very slight play I also made sure the motor screws were done in tightly. I Attachment 1334868can't seem to figure out why this is happening. Also check the pod to make sure all the screws were done tightly. It seems when I try to tighten the motor screws the motor itself keeps moving back towards the spur gear and won't stay in place. I also have to hold the motor in place as I screw it in an order set my pinion to spur gear mesh.
Thanks for all the feedback and advice regarding stripping the spur gear. The problem has been resolved although I can't say which suggestion worked towards the problem. I did all of them ( checked and clean bearings, checked and replaced motor screws, adjust shaft position in the rear etc. )at one shot and was able to race this weekend without a hiccup.

NEW CONCERN!
I damaged one of the side springs and my car was lifting the front wheels on every turn. I went to replace it using the CRC pro tapered ones but they do not fit the xray spring mounts. Has anyone successfully used any other brand of spring retainers and springs? I'm thinking of using the exotek version of side spring mounts with the CRC pro tapered springs so I don't have to buy an entire new set of Xray springs. thanks
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Old 01-04-2016, 12:37 PM   #1335
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Thanks for all the feedback and advice regarding stripping the spur gear. The problem has been resolved although I can't say which suggestion worked towards the problem. I did all of them ( checked and clean bearings, checked and replaced motor screws, adjust shaft position in the rear etc. )at one shot and was able to race this weekend without a hiccup.

NEW CONCERN!
I damaged one of the side springs and my car was lifting the front wheels on every turn. I went to replace it using the CRC pro tapered ones but they do not fit the xray spring mounts. Has anyone successfully used any other brand of spring retainers and springs? I'm thinking of using the exotek version of side spring mounts with the CRC pro tapered springs so I don't have to buy an entire new set of Xray springs. thanks
Most in our club use tamiya side springs which are tapered. They are a little bit taller than xray's. We mount them with the wide side up on the original xray spring holder. I think you can use any springs if you get the right spring holders - most of them are to be screwed on 2 mm grubscrew.
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