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Old 09-04-2019, 10:24 AM
  #2836  
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there is no way there are the same, I know for sure the rims are different and they sure handle different
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Old 09-04-2019, 11:57 AM
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Then the rim changes the handling.
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Old 09-04-2019, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by photeckk View Post
Then the rim changes the handling.
which makes perfect sense imo.

The rubber 100% looks the same.
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Old 09-04-2019, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by JayL View Post
there is no way there are the same, I know for sure the rims are different and they sure handle different
First off, how are the rims different? Images from amain show all of the Ride, Gravity, Yokomo and Hudy attached as the same.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/ride-gr...d26040/p665700

https://www.amainhobbies.com/gravity...grc138/p682472

https://www.amainhobbies.com/yokomo-...r-27gr/p700114

https://www.amainhobbies.com/hudy-1-...803070/p673604
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Old 10-03-2019, 01:25 PM
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Can anyone post a starting setup for an x1 19 on a small black carpet track? Ball diff, spool, or gear diff? Our spec tire is the gravity tires, and spec motor is the hw 25.5. I have a car and am trying to decide if I am going to run it, or sell it (haven't run F1 yet).
Thanks
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Old 10-03-2019, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by trilerian View Post
Can anyone post a starting setup for an x1 19 on a small black carpet track? Ball diff, spool, or gear diff? Our spec tire is the gravity tires, and spec motor is the hw 25.5. I have a car and am trying to decide if I am going to run it, or sell it (haven't run F1 yet).
Thanks
I would start with the following setup. I usually run more camber and caster than this one though and I run a spool.

http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/xra...gas2018111618/
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Old 10-04-2019, 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by chensleyrc1 View Post
I would start with the following setup. I usually run more camber and caster than this one though and I run a spool.

http://site.petitrc.com/reglages/xra...gas2018111618/
Thank you, I will give that a go to start.
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Old 10-04-2019, 09:50 AM
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Does replacing the plastic pivot balls with the spring steel pivot balls in the front arms get rid of the binding issue?
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Old 10-06-2019, 10:28 AM
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Originally Posted by trilerian View Post
Does replacing the plastic pivot balls with the spring steel pivot balls in the front arms get rid of the binding issue?
I don't have any binding issues in the front, but I do always polish the kingpins. As for the balls in the inner arm, I only tighten them until snug. Over tighten and they can bind. I did goto the hardened aluminum balls in the 2015 car, but really saw no performance advantage so I didn't do that change on my 2018.
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Old 10-07-2019, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by chensleyrc1 View Post
I don't have any binding issues in the front, but I do always polish the kingpins. As for the balls in the inner arm, I only tighten them until snug. Over tighten and they can bind. I did goto the hardened aluminum balls in the 2015 car, but really saw no performance advantage so I didn't do that change on my 2018.
Thanks! How about the aluminum vs carbon chassis? Also, spool was not the way to go... Nobody at the track runs the spool and I started the night with it. It stepped out way too much, sure instant throttle was good, but the car was crap. Put the diff in and it calmed the car down a lot, but it pushes like a freight train going into corners. A light, and I mean light tap on the brakes settles it in for the corner, but the rear steps just a touch when the brake is applied, maybe slides a couple of inches then catches grip, but makes it inconsistent.
Another question, how much tweak in the chassis is too much for these? My carbon chassis has a bit of tweak in the nose, which is annoying since this was bought new. It isn't a lot sitting on the board with nothing mounted, but once you get everything in place it is quite noticeable. I am contemplating buying the aluminum chassis, but want to make sure it will be good, and that it will be perfectly flat. I am a bit picky and like my chassis to be completely flat.
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Old 10-07-2019, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by trilerian View Post
Another question, how much tweak in the chassis is too much for these? My carbon chassis has a bit of tweak in the nose, which is annoying since this was bought new. It isn't a lot sitting on the board with nothing mounted, but once you get everything in place it is quite noticeable. I am contemplating buying the aluminum chassis, but want to make sure it will be good, and that it will be perfectly flat. I am a bit picky and like my chassis to be completely flat.
A tweak in the nose? Could you clarify?
Lots of guys have chased ride height that was different left to right measured on opposite sides of the chassis. This might not show as 'tweaked' when the car is checked on a tweak board but can make a guy crazy. Is that what you mean?
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Old 10-07-2019, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by sps3172 View Post
A tweak in the nose? Could you clarify?
Lots of guys have chased ride height that was different left to right measured on opposite sides of the chassis. This might not show as 'tweaked' when the car is checked on a tweak board but can make a guy crazy. Is that what you mean?
I mean physical tweak to the chassis. When laying on a setup board the chassis does not lay perfectly flat. The nose i bowed up and slightly higher on one side than the other. Gets more noticeable once the front of the chassis is assembled. My TCs lay perfectly flat without any chassis rocking. It came out of the box this way. But yes, this can manifest itself as different ride height from side to side. To be honest, my last xray 1/12 scale I bought, also had a slight tweak in it right out of the box. So I am not very hopeful that a new chassis would fix the issue.
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Old 10-07-2019, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by trilerian View Post
Thanks! How about the aluminum vs carbon chassis? Also, spool was not the way to go... Nobody at the track runs the spool and I started the night with it. It stepped out way too much, sure instant throttle was good, but the car was crap. Put the diff in and it calmed the car down a lot, but it pushes like a freight train going into corners. A light, and I mean light tap on the brakes settles it in for the corner, but the rear steps just a touch when the brake is applied, maybe slides a couple of inches then catches grip, but makes it inconsistent.
Another question, how much tweak in the chassis is too much for these? My carbon chassis has a bit of tweak in the nose, which is annoying since this was bought new. It isn't a lot sitting on the board with nothing mounted, but once you get everything in place it is quite noticeable. I am contemplating buying the aluminum chassis, but want to make sure it will be good, and that it will be perfectly flat. I am a bit picky and like my chassis to be completely flat.
I run the aluminum flex chassis with the spool, but we have a high level of traction at ProlevelRC. I also had step out issues with the Gravity tires but got rid of it with glue on the front sidewalls. The Gravity rears take a bit to break in as well. If they got pimples, they are not broke in all the way. As for steering, F1's push or they flip. I run full compound front and rear to help, but the first minute is a bear to drive. You can try unglued fronts as well to see if that helps if you have too much push. As for tweak issues. I about drove myself nuts with the ride height not being the same on both sides of the car, lol. And never slap a front end gauge on it, you will be pulling hairs out trying to get it perfect, lol. Just set the tweak via tweak board and make sure the lowest part of the chassis is at 4mm or whatever legal minimum is where you race.
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