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Old 09-12-2018, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by DavidNERODease View Post
Wow, I'm not sure how that could even happen?
steel nut, aluminum axle, big wrench?
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Old 09-12-2018, 12:33 PM
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no idea.

Last edited by rcguyfpr; 09-12-2018 at 04:53 PM.
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Old 09-12-2018, 12:43 PM
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In the old days with pan cars we always ran plastic nuts to prevent problems like that. The nut would strip out before the threads on the axle did. I think it can be caused by no threading the nut on properly or an extremely hard hit causes the axle to move and push against the nut.
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Old 09-12-2018, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by rcguyfpr View Post
Check this out.


have you tried a spacer to get the nut up to the good threads?
Is there enough left to allow the lock nut to grab?
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Old 09-12-2018, 02:58 PM
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This can happen on tamiya f1 cars too. Some lube on the threads helps.
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Old 09-12-2018, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rcguyfpr View Post
Check this out.


I've seen a few of these. Trying to get the diff tight enough to stop diffing out can strip the axle.
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Old 09-12-2018, 04:54 PM
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I am selling the 18 with brand new graphite chassis and carpet used flex aluminum chassis.
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Old 09-12-2018, 09:13 PM
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There has to be something up with the diff build...you shouldnít have to wrench it down that hard that it would strip to get it right. It canít be misthreaded as the outermost threads would be torn up too. Make sure bevel washers are correctly oriented....like this (). Make sure right size diff balls. Make sure thrust bearing isnít seized...along with all other bearings. Iíd check these things with any ball diff, f1 or 1/12...any pan car or otherwise.

It looks like the axle was spinning while nut was in place...no idea how that could happen other than wheel loose and somehow backing out and holding the nut. As mentioned above, hard hit would do it. Crazy
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Old 09-12-2018, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by JeffofSpace View Post
There has to be something up with the diff build...you shouldnít have to wrench it down that hard that it would strip to get it right. It canít be misthreaded as the outermost threads would be torn up too. Make sure bevel washers are correctly oriented....like this (). Make sure right size diff balls. Make sure thrust bearing isnít seized...along with all other bearings. Iíd check these things with any ball diff, f1 or 1/12...any pan car or otherwise.

It looks like the axle was spinning while nut was in place...no idea how that could happen other than wheel loose and somehow backing out and holding the nut. As mentioned above, hard hit would do it. Crazy
It's caused by over tightening the diff, simple.
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Old 09-13-2018, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by F N CUDA View Post
Just converted a 16 to 18 with parts mentioned above (actually supplied by PROMODVETTE garage sale) and all was perfect. He knows his sh, stuff.
So what was this worth CUDA? to go from the 16 to the 18 using parts.. or maybe give me an idea if you had to buy them at retail. I have a 16.. not sure its worth going to the 18.. I know sway bar can help, but mine is running about as good as I can drive it at the moment anyway.

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Old 09-13-2018, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Bikerbob View Post
So what was this worth CUDA? to go from the 16 to the 18 using parts.. or maybe give me an idea if you had to buy them at retail. I have a 16.. not sure its worth going to the 18.. I know sway bar can help, but mine is running about as good as I can drive it at the moment anyway.

James
It's not cheap retail, over half the cost of a new kit, I wanted to go aluminum chassis and pod anyway so there's $140 retail right there, the extra bits and pieces for the forward link mounts shock and body mount piece would be about another $35 or so, no sway bar, now you're at over half the cost of a new kit but that kit is graphite chassis
The good part, I bought my chassis, pod and bits to convert second hand but all brand new.
Winner winner chicken dinner.
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Old 09-13-2018, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Dan View Post
PSM and Fenix also currently make X1 O-ring battery holder option parts.
PSM states for 2018 .. but no reason it could not fit the 2016 correct? Which is easier to come by? I hate taping in batteries.

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Old 09-13-2018, 10:32 AM
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Old 09-13-2018, 10:36 AM
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Thats really all thats different?? wow.. Damm $100 chassis plate

James

P.S dont see anything there about the sway bars or mounts.. upper arms that can take them?

Last edited by Bikerbob; 09-13-2018 at 03:09 PM.
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Old 09-13-2018, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Bikerbob View Post
Thats really all thats different?? wow.. Damm $100 chassis plate

James
gets you the skinnier chassis, links mounted on hangers in front, no chassis to drag.
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