Is it worth getting the Tamiya TRF417 v5 at this time (October 2013)
10-29-2013, 04:23 AM
#1
Is it worth getting the Tamiya TRF417 v5 at this time (October 2013)
Hi guys,
I am new to RC car and I own a RTR car (with upgraded LiPo batts and brushless system) at the moment.
I have been playing with my RTR for about 3 months and I thought of building my first car through an assembly kit.
Assuming if I can get a new Tamiya TRF 417 v5 kit with a discount of about 17% off the retail price, is it worth buying it now as the new Tamiya TRF 418 will be out soon?
Thank you in advance.
I am new to RC car and I own a RTR car (with upgraded LiPo batts and brushless system) at the moment.
I have been playing with my RTR for about 3 months and I thought of building my first car through an assembly kit.
Assuming if I can get a new Tamiya TRF 417 v5 kit with a discount of about 17% off the retail price, is it worth buying it now as the new Tamiya TRF 418 will be out soon?
Thank you in advance.
10-29-2013, 05:18 AM
#2
Tech Regular
TRF417v5 is still and will be a very competitive car for a long time even after the 418 comes out, it comes down to if you want to have the newest kit or not.
10-29-2013, 07:04 AM
#5
Tech Master
Yes, it's a fine car.
10-29-2013, 07:28 AM
#6
I do not plan to take part in racing competition (at least for now) as I'm still learning. I understand that TRF417v5 is a high end kit and if it is not suitable for a beginner, what is the recommended kit for a first timer? Is Yokomo BD7 RS (which is an intermediate kit) a better choice instead?
Thanks mate.
10-29-2013, 07:41 AM
#7
I myself prefer the 417x with a v7 smokem kit.
417x $400 +80 for v7
417 v5 is $500?
418 eill be what 550-700 depending on demand?
417x $400 +80 for v7
417 v5 is $500?
418 eill be what 550-700 depending on demand?
10-29-2013, 10:03 AM
#8
Hi guys,
There are a few replied to my posted question on buying the tamiya trf417v5 kit and thank you for your prompt responses.
What do guys think of the intermediate rc car like Yokomo BD7vRS (which was just released last month) as compare with Tamiya TRF417v5 (which was release about this time last year, if I recall correctly)? The cost of a Tamiya TRF417v5 is about 45% more than the Yokomo BD7vRS. However, the opponents in the Tamiya TRF417v5 are mostly carbon fiber and aluminum.
As a first time kit builder, what would you recommend? Also, will the Tamiya TRF417v5 generate a wider turn, smooth turning, endure more crash and is more durable than Yokomo BD7vRS (which is unlike its predecessor BD7, no aluminum and some carbon fiber opponents (e.g. Front and rear damper stay are plastic and not carbon fiber) are taken out for hop-ons option). The reason I asked about wider turn, smooth turning, endure more crash is because my Kyosho EP Fazer RTR car (with LiPo batt and brushless 10.5T motor) is a great disappointment when I tried out running on the track lately. The turning was bad and some parts came off when it onto a minor crash.
In addition to build a smooth control and durable car, I would also like to take this opportunity to learn more about RC car through building a new car kit from scratch. As of now, there isn't much thing I can do much to my RTR.
I look forward to you guys precious advice again and thank you.
There are a few replied to my posted question on buying the tamiya trf417v5 kit and thank you for your prompt responses.
What do guys think of the intermediate rc car like Yokomo BD7vRS (which was just released last month) as compare with Tamiya TRF417v5 (which was release about this time last year, if I recall correctly)? The cost of a Tamiya TRF417v5 is about 45% more than the Yokomo BD7vRS. However, the opponents in the Tamiya TRF417v5 are mostly carbon fiber and aluminum.
As a first time kit builder, what would you recommend? Also, will the Tamiya TRF417v5 generate a wider turn, smooth turning, endure more crash and is more durable than Yokomo BD7vRS (which is unlike its predecessor BD7, no aluminum and some carbon fiber opponents (e.g. Front and rear damper stay are plastic and not carbon fiber) are taken out for hop-ons option). The reason I asked about wider turn, smooth turning, endure more crash is because my Kyosho EP Fazer RTR car (with LiPo batt and brushless 10.5T motor) is a great disappointment when I tried out running on the track lately. The turning was bad and some parts came off when it onto a minor crash.
In addition to build a smooth control and durable car, I would also like to take this opportunity to learn more about RC car through building a new car kit from scratch. As of now, there isn't much thing I can do much to my RTR.
I look forward to you guys precious advice again and thank you.
10-29-2013, 10:29 AM
#9
Hi guys,
There are a few replied to my posted question on buying the tamiya trf417v5 kit and thank you for your prompt responses.
What do guys think of the intermediate rc car like Yokomo BD7vRS (which was just released last month) as compare with Tamiya TRF417v5 (which was release about this time last year, if I recall correctly)? The cost of a Tamiya TRF417v5 is about 45% more than the Yokomo BD7vRS. However, the opponents in the Tamiya TRF417v5 are mostly carbon fiber and aluminum.
As a first time kit builder, what would you recommend? Also, will the Tamiya TRF417v5 generate a wider turn, smooth turning, endure more crash and is more durable than Yokomo BD7vRS (which is unlike its predecessor BD7, no aluminum and some carbon fiber opponents (e.g. Front and rear damper stay are plastic and not carbon fiber) are taken out for hop-ons option). The reason I asked about wider turn, smooth turning, endure more crash is because my Kyosho EP Fazer RTR car (with LiPo batt and brushless 10.5T motor) is a great disappointment when I tried out running on the track lately. The turning was bad and some parts came off when it onto a minor crash.
In addition to build a smooth control and durable car, I would also like to take this opportunity to learn more about RC car through building a new car kit from scratch. As of now, there isn't much thing I can do much to my RTR.
I look forward to you guys precious advice again and thank you.
There are a few replied to my posted question on buying the tamiya trf417v5 kit and thank you for your prompt responses.
What do guys think of the intermediate rc car like Yokomo BD7vRS (which was just released last month) as compare with Tamiya TRF417v5 (which was release about this time last year, if I recall correctly)? The cost of a Tamiya TRF417v5 is about 45% more than the Yokomo BD7vRS. However, the opponents in the Tamiya TRF417v5 are mostly carbon fiber and aluminum.
As a first time kit builder, what would you recommend? Also, will the Tamiya TRF417v5 generate a wider turn, smooth turning, endure more crash and is more durable than Yokomo BD7vRS (which is unlike its predecessor BD7, no aluminum and some carbon fiber opponents (e.g. Front and rear damper stay are plastic and not carbon fiber) are taken out for hop-ons option). The reason I asked about wider turn, smooth turning, endure more crash is because my Kyosho EP Fazer RTR car (with LiPo batt and brushless 10.5T motor) is a great disappointment when I tried out running on the track lately. The turning was bad and some parts came off when it onto a minor crash.
In addition to build a smooth control and durable car, I would also like to take this opportunity to learn more about RC car through building a new car kit from scratch. As of now, there isn't much thing I can do much to my RTR.
I look forward to you guys precious advice again and thank you.
http://www.redrc.net/2013/10/201314-...rt/#more-73108
10-29-2013, 10:57 AM
#11
Tech Regular
My first touring car was a schumacher mi5, 2nd was a bd7 RS
the BD7S is not a money pit if you use it out of the box like intended, on 17.5t outdoors, however indoors it struggles, add boost, it dies, mine did so had to get metal spool n pullies and now is smooth as silk, the bd7RS is good for those who want a bit of a project and like to "hop up" models as it were.
the BD7S is not a money pit if you use it out of the box like intended, on 17.5t outdoors, however indoors it struggles, add boost, it dies, mine did so had to get metal spool n pullies and now is smooth as silk, the bd7RS is good for those who want a bit of a project and like to "hop up" models as it were.
10-29-2013, 11:01 AM
#12
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Having recently entered in the RC car fray myself, I decided to build a 417 (Kit 44220) which I also know is not the normal progression for a newbie. I do think you will find the higher end kits to be more durable as you pointed out. So far the only thing I've broken is the Speed Control, and a Mazda 6 body shell, though I'm on my second bumper and have 2 more at the ready if I need them. The ESC was my fault when I reversed the polarity (lesson: don't work on your car and watch the World Series at the same time). I can say the building and constant tweaking of these cars is the fun part so I have no regrets at all building a kit like this, its been a blast.
My suggestions would be as follows, and please remember these are coming from a fellow newbie.
First: find out what brands and parts the local hobby store or track carries. Turns out most of the guys in my area run either Xray or TOP kits so the track has parts and hop-ups for them but not a lot for Tamiya runners. Had I realized this I would have either bought an Xray T4 or a TOP Photon EX.
Second: make friends with the guys at the local track and have them help out with set up questions and handling issues. I've had the local guys try my car out and make some changes that have really helped. Especially with the radio which I had left at the preset settings and wasn't making things any easier for me.
Third: Stock up on Shims and Screws (and bumpers) as you will loose these from time to time, it seems to me that when a screw comes loose it doesn't take long before it works its way completely out and you're wondering where it went. I've since learned to stop every 20 to 30 minutes of practice time to check that everything is still tight and accounted for. Also a good set of tools goes a long way.
Fourth: get track time as often as you can, you'll be surprised at how quickly you can improve by just getting time on the track. I'm getting to the point where I may need a transponder so I can get an idea of the lap times I'm turning.
Just my $.02 but I'm sure the others here will have some terrific suggestions for you as well.
Cheers
My suggestions would be as follows, and please remember these are coming from a fellow newbie.
First: find out what brands and parts the local hobby store or track carries. Turns out most of the guys in my area run either Xray or TOP kits so the track has parts and hop-ups for them but not a lot for Tamiya runners. Had I realized this I would have either bought an Xray T4 or a TOP Photon EX.
Second: make friends with the guys at the local track and have them help out with set up questions and handling issues. I've had the local guys try my car out and make some changes that have really helped. Especially with the radio which I had left at the preset settings and wasn't making things any easier for me.
Third: Stock up on Shims and Screws (and bumpers) as you will loose these from time to time, it seems to me that when a screw comes loose it doesn't take long before it works its way completely out and you're wondering where it went. I've since learned to stop every 20 to 30 minutes of practice time to check that everything is still tight and accounted for. Also a good set of tools goes a long way.
Fourth: get track time as often as you can, you'll be surprised at how quickly you can improve by just getting time on the track. I'm getting to the point where I may need a transponder so I can get an idea of the lap times I'm turning.
Just my $.02 but I'm sure the others here will have some terrific suggestions for you as well.
Cheers
10-29-2013, 11:04 AM
#13
If you are not going to race and want to play out doors on the street any of the Carbon Fiber based cars are a waste of cash. Realize these types of cars are designed to run a ride height of 5-6mm. In the street you will hit every pebble, rock, manhole cover etc. They are expensive to maintain and are more fragile than something made for fun in the street.
10-29-2013, 11:13 AM
#14
If you are not going to race and want to play out doors on the street any of the Carbon Fiber based cars are a waste of cash. Realize these types of cars are designed to run a ride height of 5-6mm. In the street you will hit every pebble, rock, manhole cover etc. They are expensive to maintain and are more fragile than something made for fun in the street.
10-29-2013, 11:26 AM
#15
If you are not going to race and want to play out doors on the street any of the Carbon Fiber based cars are a waste of cash. Realize these types of cars are designed to run a ride height of 5-6mm. In the street you will hit every pebble, rock, manhole cover etc. They are expensive to maintain and are more fragile than something made for fun in the street.
