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Old 10-29-2013, 12:36 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by bigwavedave33 View Post
If you are not going to race and want to play out doors on the street any of the Carbon Fiber based cars are a waste of cash. Realize these types of cars are designed to run a ride height of 5-6mm. In the street you will hit every pebble, rock, manhole cover etc. They are expensive to maintain and are more fragile than something made for fun in the street.
Hi,

I should be going to a racing track whenever I can to practice as car parks and street are quite hard to practice.

Thanks.
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Old 10-29-2013, 12:42 PM   #17
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Having recently entered in the RC car fray myself, I decided to build a 417 (Kit 44220) which I also know is not the normal progression for a newbie. I do think you will find the higher end kits to be more durable as you pointed out. So far the only thing I've broken is the Speed Control, and a Mazda 6 body shell, though I'm on my second bumper and have 2 more at the ready if I need them. The ESC was my fault when I reversed the polarity (lesson: don't work on your car and watch the World Series at the same time). I can say the building and constant tweaking of these cars is the fun part so I have no regrets at all building a kit like this, its been a blast.

My suggestions would be as follows, and please remember these are coming from a fellow newbie.
First: find out what brands and parts the local hobby store or track carries. Turns out most of the guys in my area run either Xray or TOP kits so the track has parts and hop-ups for them but not a lot for Tamiya runners. Had I realized this I would have either bought an Xray T4 or a TOP Photon EX.
Second: make friends with the guys at the local track and have them help out with set up questions and handling issues. I've had the local guys try my car out and make some changes that have really helped. Especially with the radio which I had left at the preset settings and wasn't making things any easier for me.
Third: Stock up on Shims and Screws (and bumpers) as you will loose these from time to time, it seems to me that when a screw comes loose it doesn't take long before it works its way completely out and you're wondering where it went. I've since learned to stop every 20 to 30 minutes of practice time to check that everything is still tight and accounted for. Also a good set of tools goes a long way.
Fourth: get track time as often as you can, you'll be surprised at how quickly you can improve by just getting time on the track. I'm getting to the point where I may need a transponder so I can get an idea of the lap times I'm turning.

Just my $.02 but I'm sure the others here will have some terrific suggestions for you as well.

Cheers
Thanks mate. We do have a big Tamiya store and showroom in Singapore and it is very near my place. My problem is should I overspend my budget to get the Tamiya TRF417v5 which is a top end car while I'm still a newbie.
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Old 10-29-2013, 12:52 PM   #18
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So "Adam used new sport level BD7 RS version to grab the runner-up spot". The thing is he is a pro while I'm a noob. Hahaha.
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Old 10-29-2013, 12:57 PM   #19
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The thing is he is a pro while I'm a noob. Hahaha.
Herein lies the answer to your own question.
A LOT of this hobby is to do with the driver and not so much the car. You're going to get very similar results regardless if you buy the latest top spec race chassis, or a version aimed at somebody starting to club race, or something 2nd hand off a local racer.
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Old 10-29-2013, 01:41 PM   #20
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So "Adam used new sport level BD7 RS version to grab the runner-up spot". The thing is he is a pro while I'm a noob. Hahaha.
If he's a Pro, he should be running MOD
I don't follow the drivers over there much, but, hmm, never heard of him ?

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Herein lies the answer to your own question.
A LOT of this hobby is to do with the driver and not so much the car. You're going to get very similar results regardless if you buy the latest top spec race chassis, or a version aimed at somebody starting to club race, or something 2nd hand off a local racer.
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Old 10-29-2013, 04:23 PM   #21
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Herein lies the answer to your own question.
A LOT of this hobby is to do with the driver and not so much the car. You're going to get very similar results regardless if you buy the latest top spec race chassis, or a version aimed at somebody starting to club race, or something 2nd hand off a local racer.
I agree that a lot of rc racing lies with the racer's skill and technique. Initially, I thought by buying a RTR and upgrading it with LiPo batts and brushless system will be sufficient to practice on the track and life goes on. However, I noted that there are a lot of constraints and limitations with the RTR tuning and upgrading of parts. Moreover, it is not very sensible or practical to upgrade my RTR chassis with good parts too.

Do correct me if I'm wrong. Thank you.
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Old 10-29-2013, 04:59 PM   #22
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The 417v5 is great. It's strong fast and reliable. Here is a build / review

http://www.thercracer.com/2013/06/ta...ld-thread.html

As mentioned though, a TA06pro or TB04pro could be a good compromise if you don't want to spend as much but still want a strong reliable car.

The key to going fast is just practice. As long as a car is adjustable and reliable you will be able to improve your skills and chassis tuning knowledge.
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:25 PM   #23
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i had the same question 2 months ago..

but it was an easy decision. I had an AE TC6.1 worlds that i got for 360 shipped, had it for 4 months and was a great car to learn from. I was not even selling it but i found a TRF417v5 for 480 shipped. Sold my TC6.1 on ebay and bid went up to $330.00 surprisingly. so for an extra 150 bucks i got me a TRF

TRF417v5 - $480 shipped which used to be a $750 car (last year)
TRF418 - $750 or more because its the newest

not sure if the performance is worth the extra 300 bucks. Besides there is a new car every friken year... Am i gonna buy every new TRF that comes out?? Hell NO!

I have guys in my local race track that drive a yokomo from 2005 and old hpi pro 4's and smoke guys that have newest chassis...

you can have the best car out, you still gotta drive it... lol

However, my observation has been that a good amount of people always buy the most current a latest kit... to each their own i know that is when the hobby becomes out of control for such miniscule result and not guaranteed positive results.

a 418 is a $750 car which will eventually become a $480 car when the new 418x 418_ comes out.... question is are you willing to keep changing cars every year?? its like man... how do you keep up when new stuff comes out yearly... I just focus on how to get better in driving.

for me i am extremely satisfied with my TRF417v5 and will have it for about 2-3 years and call it good maybe even longer.

I take such good care of my stuff that it might still look new 3 years from now. lol.

Besides im kinda new and not the best driver yet so i didnt see the point of spending $750.00

Hope this helps
Good luck SIR!
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:25 PM   #24
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Having owned Tamiya TCs since the TA02 days, here's my two cents. Unless the race requires tub cars or you have some sort of weird ego(like I did), stick with the CF chassis kits. You will end up paying more at the end(tamiya magic I call it). Tamiya likes to make cars that's outside the box and interesting with the TA/TB series, but you don't see that in their TRF cars for a reason. I wanted to see exotic looking tamiya cars to run at pro-level, but it's not gonna happen. You will be decently fast with the TA/TB cars, but after a while, you will outgrow them. But by the time you realized that, you spent quite a lot of money(But I love upgrading, call me a sucker ).

If you want to play around and experiment, the mid-level tub cars are fun, and there is nothing wrong with that. Just keep in mind what you are really trying to achieve with it.

Getting back to topic, the 417 series is still plenty competitive. If you can get one used for a cheap price get it.
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Old 10-29-2013, 05:47 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by inpuressa View Post
Having owned Tamiya TCs since the TA02 days, here's my two cents. Unless the race requires tub cars or you have some sort of weird ego(like I did), stick with the CF chassis kits. You will end up paying more at the end(tamiya magic I call it). Tamiya likes to make cars that's outside the box and interesting with the TA/TB series, but you don't see that in their TRF cars for a reason. I wanted to see exotic looking tamiya cars to run at pro-level, but it's not gonna happen. You will be decently fast with the TA/TB cars, but after a while, you will outgrow them. But by the time you realized that, you spent quite a lot of money(But I love upgrading, call me a sucker ).

If you want to play around and experiment, the mid-level tub cars are fun, and there is nothing wrong with that. Just keep in mind what you are really trying to achieve with it.

Getting back to topic, the 417 series is still plenty competitive. If you can get one used for a cheap price get it.

+1 for sure!

MY Ta05R $800 after all hopups
My 417v5 $480 done

I would not have a Ta05 if it wasnt for GT2 and GT3 in TCS as the TA05 is the best chassis in these 2 classes.

i have not heard of many good things about Ta06...
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Old 10-29-2013, 06:02 PM   #26
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i had the same question 2 months ago..

but it was an easy decision. I had an AE TC6.1 worlds that i got for 360 shipped, had it for 4 months and was a great car to learn from. I was not even selling it but i found a TRF417v5 for 480 shipped. Sold my TC6.1 on ebay and bid went up to $330.00 surprisingly. so for an extra 150 bucks i got me a TRF

TRF417v5 - $480 shipped which used to be a $750 car (last year)
TRF418 - $750 or more because its the newest

not sure if the performance is worth the extra 300 bucks. Besides there is a new car every friken year... Am i gonna buy every new TRF that comes out?? Hell NO!

I have guys in my local race track that drive a yokomo from 2005 and old hpi pro 4's and smoke guys that have newest chassis...

you can have the best car out, you still gotta drive it... lol

However, my observation has been that a good amount of people always buy the most current a latest kit... to each their own i know that is when the hobby becomes out of control for such miniscule result and not guaranteed positive results.

a 418 is a $750 car which will eventually become a $480 car when the new 418x 418_ comes out.... question is are you willing to keep changing cars every year?? its like man... how do you keep up when new stuff comes out yearly... I just focus on how to get better in driving.

for me i am extremely satisfied with my TRF417v5 and will have it for about 2-3 years and call it good maybe even longer.

I take such good care of my stuff that it might still look new 3 years from now. lol.

Besides im kinda new and not the best driver yet so i didnt see the point of spending $750.00

Hope this helps
Good luck SIR!
Thanks for your advice Jacob. I doubt I can sell my current car at a good price since this RTR's condition wasn't that good after a few bashing. Hahaha
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Old 10-29-2013, 07:46 PM   #27
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Where are you getting at that the TRF418 will be $750?

It will most likely be around $600-650 when released.
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:40 PM   #28
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Speedtech preorder for the 418 is $599.
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Old 10-29-2013, 08:58 PM   #29
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They need to make them "affordable" otherwise only true pro level drivers would buy them. 750 is just to much.
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Old 10-29-2013, 11:24 PM   #30
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Where are you getting at that the TRF418 will be $750?

It will most likely be around $600-650 when released.
Hey Dan I was assuming that it would be 750 since the V5 was 750. But 599. I guess that's a pretty good. If that price is only a 100 dollar difference from V5. Maybe it's worth it. I would just have to wait and see.


My gut tells me the v5 is better. Just a guess tho
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