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Old 07-02-2005, 06:20 PM   #1
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Default amp draw?

exuse me if i sound ignorant, im just starting to try and figure out motors so i started on a stock trinity. i have an ice charger and it has a break in cycle on it, when i do this at 5 volts witch was recomended to me does anyone know what kind of amp draw i should be doing @ 5v.
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Old 07-02-2005, 06:24 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odawg315
exuse me if i sound ignorant, im just starting to try and figure out motors so i started on a stock trinity. i have an ice charger and it has a break in cycle on it, when i do this at 5 volts witch was recomended to me does anyone know what kind of amp draw i should be doing @ 5v.
When I break in my motor it is for 1minute @1V or if you like 2V....
With a really good stock motor @ 1V it should be 4.5amp & @2V more like 8amp
This would be a very good motor and one that I would be comfortable racing.
But I ahve had motors that only get 3.5amp @1V and they still rip...
really drive each motor and compair lap times...Some motors are better for another track than others...
each motor is not created equaly.
Just from what I've found..
Hoep this helps,
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Old 07-02-2005, 06:32 PM   #3
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When running your motor to break it in or seat the brushes, common practice is 3 volts for 200 seconds.
As for amp draw, many things factor in for amp draw.
A motor (stocker) that pulls high amp draw could either be a motor with a good amount of torque, or has heavy brush spings, or is binding somewhere.
A motor that pulls a lower amp draw could have a good amount of rpm, lighter springs or is just a flat out worthless motor.

Expierement with changing different tension brush springs and that will give you an idea of what it does to amp draw, also drive these motors so you can see what it does to the "on track" characteristics.
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Old 07-02-2005, 06:56 PM   #4
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well the first one i did, used prple springs, teflon washers, i polished the bushings, and using cross serrated brushes, it peaked at 8.02 [email protected] 3v, and peaked at 11.01 @ 5v. does this sound strong?
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Old 07-02-2005, 08:39 PM   #5
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Amp draw is the worst way in the world to determine if a motor is good or not. The higher the amp draw the higher the RPM usually.

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Old 07-02-2005, 08:52 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
Amp draw is the worst way in the world to determine if a motor is good or not. The higher the amp draw the higher the RPM usually.

EA
Yup, no load amp draw is pretty useless...
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Old 07-02-2005, 08:55 PM   #7
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Then for the guys who are now trying to figure out motors what is the correct way to break in a motor.I have been told 300 [email protected] volts and 4 volts.Everybody has different ways.I have been breaking them in for 300 secs at 2 volts.If checking a motor by amp draw is wrong then how do we check them?I use a CE turbo 35BL is there a way to check the motor out on it?
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Old 07-02-2005, 08:58 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BONZAIII
Then for the guys who are now trying to figure out motors what is the correct way to break in a motor.I have been told 300 [email protected] volts and 4 volts.Everybody has different ways.I have been breaking them in for 300 secs at 2 volts.If checking a motor by amp draw is wrong then how do we check them?I use a CE turbo 35BL is there a way to check the motor out on it?
It depends on the brushes. I run them in at 2 volts until fully seated. For example, 767s usually take a couple minutes where f-brushes can take 5 or more minutes
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Old 07-02-2005, 09:00 PM   #9
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What kind of equipment do we need to properly check a motor to see what it is doing?
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Old 07-02-2005, 09:01 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BONZAIII
What kind of equipment do we need to properly check a motor to see what it is doing?
A dyno, pref a turbodyno...
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Old 07-02-2005, 09:03 PM   #11
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Who makes it and how much are they?
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Old 07-02-2005, 09:06 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BONZAIII
Who makes it and how much are they?
you can only get them used on ebay or similar places these days. they were made by competition electronics. they go for around $750 or so. ce did make 50 this year but there was a waiting list, they went mostly to tuners and I heard they were $1500.
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Old 07-02-2005, 09:11 PM   #13
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The best dyno in the world is the track and a stop watch.... 2nd best is a Turbo dyno.

Hyperform is correct on breaking in brushes. I do all mine at 2 volts with a small fan. Usually 300 seconds for 767's and 500 seconds for F brushes.

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Old 07-02-2005, 09:12 PM   #14
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I appreciate the help but for some people I included do not really have the money to purchase this type of equipment.I put more money in my car keeping it as competitive as I can.With all that said is there an alternative for someone like me to test a motor besides running it to check it and possibly determine if the motor is worth racing or demoting it to a practice motor?
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Old 07-02-2005, 09:18 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EAMotorsports
The best dyno in the world is the track and a stop watch.... 2nd best is a Turbo dyno.

Hyperform is correct on breaking in brushes. I do all mine at 2 volts with a small fan. Usually 300 seconds for 767's and 500 seconds for F brushes.

EA
True that EA... The majority of the time, we find a motor that runs really well on the track and then dyno it to record it's characteristics.
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