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New CRC F1 At IIC

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New CRC F1 At IIC

Old 06-15-2017, 04:27 AM
  #676  
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Originally Posted by old_dude
Dremel with a thin wheel, cut slot in broken pin and use a screwdriver to remove it from the block. I went through a rash last winter. The blocks seem to survive with the slot in them.
A rash is the worst. It is so hard to find a good medication for it.
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Old 06-15-2017, 12:09 PM
  #677  
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Originally Posted by davidl
A rash is the worst. It is so hard to find a good medication for it.
I healed it with an edit. LOL
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Old 06-16-2017, 07:05 AM
  #678  
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Originally Posted by Serzoni
Basically, you need to replace the rearmost screw in the socket for the lower arm ball with some kind of post to stop the steering block from turning too far inward. You can use a longer screw with spacers on it, or a screw coming from the bottom of the arm with a standoff on it. There's all kinds of variations that work. Team Saxo (who makes the plastics for the CRC front end) actually made hopup posts for their car that accomplishes this, but there's no Saxo dealer in the US to my knowledge, and $30 shipping for a $4 part is crazy. I'm surprised that CRC hasn't brought these over or made some of their own. Every CRC owner at our track has had the same issue at some point.

Team Saxo steering stops



Here's how I fixed mine. I used some hex-head M3 bolts that fit pefectly into the nut recess in the lower side of the socket, then I screw on some posts that I had 3d printed from the top. You could use regular standoffs that are threaded for 3mm in the same place.







I have ordered up a box of these 3mm hex head screws. The box count is 50 pcs so I have plenty extra if someone out there needs any. Shoot me a PM and I'll send them to you, no charge as long as a simple stamp will work for shipping.

I will use this as my initial step, along with the hub modifications RobK suggested and hopefully eliminate the issue.

However, if there are others out there that want to combine buying and divide the shipping cost for the Team Saxo part, let me know. I checked on their website and if we get 5-6 of us, it would drop the shipping to about $5 each. I'd be happy to buy the parts from overseas and then then send them out to anyone interested upon receipt of payment for the part cost and your portion of shipping.

If I get enough to take me up on the offer, great. If not, I'll stick with the 3mm Hex bolt mod and be happy.

LMK...
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Old 07-10-2017, 09:11 AM
  #679  
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Any news yet on the front bulkheads for the CRC F1?
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Old 09-29-2018, 07:27 AM
  #680  
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well here is my thing, i replaced the front upper arms with the CRC aluminum arms ... now it destroys king pins with the lightest contact .... so far its looking like i will be forced to go back to the plastic upper arms.
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Old 09-30-2018, 12:46 PM
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My solution has been very similar. A long 3mm screw in the rear hole for the lower ball mount, and 3mm spacers to stop the arm twisting too far back during crashes.

Been running that for since a Snowbirds a few years ago, and not broken a front upright since. I can post photos if anyone would like them?

Really looking forward to racing my WTF-1 at the opening ETS round in Vienna soon
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Old 09-30-2018, 02:03 PM
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Old 09-30-2018, 05:05 PM
  #683  
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Looks like you're going for rear traction
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Old 10-01-2018, 02:02 PM
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ok so set up a steering stop and get the CRC tamiya front wing ..... i was told by a local driver that this is what Brian told him to do, he hasn't broke a single upright since adding the wing. so parts on order and hoping for good results.
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Old 10-02-2018, 08:30 AM
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You can also widen the slot on the upright for more travel. Usually the upright breaks when the wheel gets forced past the limit of travel.
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Old 10-02-2018, 09:57 AM
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Originally Posted by robk
You can also widen the slot on the upright for more travel. Usually the upright breaks when the wheel gets forced past the limit of travel.
i will open the slot some too ... i really like this car, much more than the others i have driven, even in the wide configuration it out turns my sons xray and his buddies f6 easily. i have been breaking the king pins and bending pivot balls getting stuffed in the boards by rookie drivers ... it blows cause you're in a spot to podium and a guy 4 or 5 laps down bangs ya in the boards and then you're DNFed LOL

is anyone running the battery longwise instead of cross ways?
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Old 10-03-2018, 05:14 AM
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Originally Posted by MCSRacing
i will open the slot some too ... i really like this car, much more than the others i have driven, even in the wide configuration it out turns my sons xray and his buddies f6 easily. i have been breaking the king pins and bending pivot balls getting stuffed in the boards by rookie drivers ... it blows cause you're in a spot to podium and a guy 4 or 5 laps down bangs ya in the boards and then you're DNFed LOL

is anyone running the battery longwise instead of cross ways?
I run the battery inline and full back.
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Old 10-04-2018, 06:36 AM
  #688  
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current layout ... wires need to be cleaned up a bit
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Old 10-06-2018, 04:02 AM
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Originally Posted by MCSRacing



current layout ... wires need to be cleaned up a bit
Almost a pic of my car including the body color. LOL
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Old 10-06-2018, 08:13 PM
  #690  
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i'm a blind old fart, that orange helps me see it ......
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