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New CRC F1 At IIC

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New CRC F1 At IIC

Old 02-11-2017, 11:39 AM
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-.45 front and side springs.
- red center spring
-front end built stock
-7k in the tubes
-190mm in the rear (94mm and change on each side when checked from the center line hole on the bottom plate)
-1 degree negative camber
- at the snowbirds, I ran battery inline, up front and 1/2 glue on the tires (glue high enough to help if I rub the track barriers, but not high enough to effect handling). I have also played around with full glue, battery transverse.
-right now, I am running the Fenix gear diff with 1 million in it.
- Very little rear droop. Just enough to say that there is some.
-4.25mm front ride height, 4.5mm rear ride height.
-Tamiya F60 front wing (now available through CRC!)
-JR 3650 (12th scale sized servo) mounted the same way it is in the manual.

If anyone has any specific questions, feel free to ask. Like I said, my car has already been shipped to the next race so I will answer the best I can until I have my car actually in front of me.

Bran Wynn'
Team CRC
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Old 02-11-2017, 12:28 PM
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how are you seeing tweak on these things exactly? I can't see any real tweak when lifting at the center rear pod hole. Maybe there is a better way to indicate tweak.
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Old 02-11-2017, 12:31 PM
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Was there a place to order that fenix diff and which one do you have? Can you link the diff and the 1 mill that you used?
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Old 02-11-2017, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by TT_Vert View Post
how are you seeing tweak on these things exactly? I can't see any real tweak when lifting at the center rear pod hole. Maybe there is a better way to indicate tweak.
You have to lift the front of the chassis, the rear wont tell you anything. Lift from center of front and see what tire comes off the ground first (some people place coins on top of tire and watch which one drops first ) then adjust opposite corner tweak spring down 1/8 of a turn and other up 1/8 turn. Repeat untill both front tires lift at same time . If your chassis is balanced left to right tweak will usually be very close and not need much adjustment. You can do a YouTube search for setting pan car tweak coin method and watch some videos to make sure your dling it right.
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Old 02-11-2017, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by dumper View Post
- at the snowbirds, I ran battery inline, up front and 1/2 glue on the tires (glue high enough to help if I rub the track barriers, but not high enough to effect handling). I have also played around with full glue, battery transverse.


If anyone has any specific questions, feel free to ask. Like I said, my car has already been shipped to the next race so I will answer the best I can until I have my car actually in front of me.

Bran Wynn'
Team CRC
I have also seen a picture of Andrew Knapp's car with the saddle pack. What lead to your guy's choice of battery/location?
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Old 02-12-2017, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 303slowdown View Post
You have to lift the front of the chassis, the rear wont tell you anything. Lift from center of front and see what tire comes off the ground first (some people place coins on top of tire and watch which one drops first ) then adjust opposite corner tweak spring down 1/8 of a turn and other up 1/8 turn. Repeat untill both front tires lift at same time . If your chassis is balanced left to right tweak will usually be very close and not need much adjustment. You can do a YouTube search for setting pan car tweak coin method and watch some videos to make sure your dling it right.
Oh i thought you could set front/rear tweak on these? I've got no tweak up front. I though you set tweak w/ the kingpins up front and the side springs for the rear?

Dave
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Old 02-12-2017, 04:58 PM
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Andrew' s car was actually Franks personnel car- per what I was told. CRC is supposed to be selling the diffs soon.
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Old 02-12-2017, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by BullFrog View Post
Andrew' s car was actually Franks personnel car- per what I was told. CRC is supposed to be selling the diffs soon.
Andrew doesn't have his own car? Gonna have to talk to his dad about that. LOL
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Old 02-13-2017, 04:29 AM
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Originally Posted by TT_Vert View Post
Oh i thought you could set front/rear tweak on these? I've got no tweak up front. I though you set tweak w/ the kingpins up front and the side springs for the rear?

Dave
Start with front kingpin lengths to equal and then adjust for equal droop. Adjust the tweak by raising the front as described using the rear springs. I use scales but sometimes the lift method.
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Old 02-13-2017, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by TT_Vert View Post
how are you seeing tweak on these things exactly? I can't see any real tweak when lifting at the center rear pod hole. Maybe there is a better way to indicate tweak.
Like these guys said, you lift from the front and adjust at the side springs. I use a set of scales, but you can also use a tweak board or coins on the front tires.
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Old 02-13-2017, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Moogumby View Post
Was there a place to order that fenix diff and which one do you have? Can you link the diff and the 1 mill that you used?
We are still getting set up with them and expect our first shipment shortly. The 1 million comes from Gravity RC
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Old 02-13-2017, 06:40 AM
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Originally Posted by robk View Post
I have also seen a picture of Andrew Knapp's car with the saddle pack. What lead to your guy's choice of battery/location?
You did!

At a UF1 race weekend at the Gate a couple of years ago, you and I were both there. A race Saturday and a race Sunday. You were running a Tamiya car. On Saturday, you didn't run very well. On Sunday you ran great. I asked you what you changed, and you said you went to a full size 2s pack. You thought the weight helped. I kept that in the memory bank....

I started messing around with our saddle pack. I have not settled on whether it is truly better or not. It does make the car heavier by quite a bit. Frank went that way after I went to Vegas. Andrew borrowed his car for the Snowbirds and basically ran it the way Frank had it set up.

I have been fast with the saddle pack setup, and I have been slow with it. So it is not a must have just yet.....
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Old 02-13-2017, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by dumper View Post
-.45 front and side springs.
- red center spring
-front end built stock
-7k in the tubes
-190mm in the rear (94mm and change on each side when checked from the center line hole on the bottom plate)
-1 degree negative camber
- at the snowbirds, I ran battery inline, up front and 1/2 glue on the tires (glue high enough to help if I rub the track barriers, but not high enough to effect handling). I have also played around with full glue, battery transverse.
-right now, I am running the Fenix gear diff with 1 million in it.
- Very little rear droop. Just enough to say that there is some.
-4.25mm front ride height, 4.5mm rear ride height.
-Tamiya F60 front wing (now available through CRC!)
-JR 3650 (12th scale sized servo) mounted the same way it is in the manual.

If anyone has any specific questions, feel free to ask. Like I said, my car has already been shipped to the next race so I will answer the best I can until I have my car actually in front of me.

Bran Wynn'
Team CRC
Dumper, would you recommend starting with this set up on the new black carpet with a subfloor? I have a CRC shorty pack I was going to run, so how would you recommend I run that? I just ordered my car Saturday from Access Hobbies on Saturday and should have it sometime this week. Please let me know if you need any other info from me. Thanks!
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Old 02-13-2017, 09:27 AM
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Probably the best way to start is battery transverse, and glue up as needed. With the battery transverse, you can also move it forward to mellow the car out if you have too.
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Old 02-13-2017, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by dumper View Post
You did!

At a UF1 race weekend at the Gate a couple of years ago, you and I were both there. A race Saturday and a race Sunday. You were running a Tamiya car. On Saturday, you didn't run very well. On Sunday you ran great. I asked you what you changed, and you said you went to a full size 2s pack. You thought the weight helped. I kept that in the memory bank....

I started messing around with our saddle pack. I have not settled on whether it is truly better or not. It does make the car heavier by quite a bit. Frank went that way after I went to Vegas. Andrew borrowed his car for the Snowbirds and basically ran it the way Frank had it set up.

I have been fast with the saddle pack setup, and I have been slow with it. So it is not a must have just yet.....
Thanks for the info.

LOLz on the UF1 race...I do remember that exchange. Saddle packs FTW!
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